Not only is the area around Prešernova cesta home to a number of governmental and diplomatic buildings as well as museums and theatres, it is also the area of Ljubljana that is most reminiscent of other Central European capitals, such as Vienna or Budapest. Prešernova cesta was laid out by the Slovene architect and urbanist Maks Fabiani after the 1895 earthquake that destroyed much of the city. Fabiani saw the street as part of a road that would circle downtown Ljubljana on the model of Vienna's Ringstrasse. The plan was partially fulfilled: several important public buildings were built in the area along side the existing residential villas; however, the full ring road was never executed.

The tour takes about one or two hours to complete, provided you do not take the time to visit the many museums along the way. A good entry point to the area is the corner of Slovenska cesta and štefanova ulica, where you will find the Skyscraper (Neboticnik, Štefanova 1). Unfortunately, the building is currently closed to the public, but in the past, the top floor was home to a café with stunning views of the city. Built between 1930 and 1933 according to plans by Vladimir Šubic, the Skyscraper was the ninth-tallest building in Europe at the time of its construction, and the first such building in the Balkans. A statue of a woman by the Slovene sculptor Lojze Dolinar links the Skyscraper to the bank next door along the Slovenska cesta façade, and the passage lined with shops and cafes mid-block on [tefanova between Slovenska and Beethovenova was Ljubljana's first.

If you walk through the gallery, you find yourself at Cankarjeva cesta, and if you turn right towards Tivoli Park, a short way down Cankarjeva you will see the Opera House (Opera, Župan~iceva 1) on your left. Built in 1892, the building is architecturally similar to other opera houses across the former Austro-Hungarian empire and was modeled particularly on the national theatres in Prague and Vienna. Though the building itself is rather modest (e.g., there is no backstage for the theatre), its façade is richly ornamented with sculptures. The façade is capped off with an allegorical statue of Genius wielding a torch.

Continuing along Cankarjeva, roughly across the street from the Opera, is the Post Office Savings Bank (Palaca poštne hranilnice, Cankarjeva 18). This building dates from 1930 and features a number of stylistic influences, ranging from Cubist (truncated, projecting roof) to Gothic (round window over the main entrance). The sculptures flanking the main entrance represent the act of Saving (female with closed hand) and Giving (female with open hand).

Right next door is the National Gallery (Narodna Galerija, Prešernova cesta 24), which opened originally as the Slovene National House in 1896. The neo-renaissance façade facing Cankarjeva was inspired by the National Theatre in Prague. Expansion was conducted in an unorthodox manner: a freestanding second structure was built in the early 1990s according to plans by Edvard Ravnikar, while a third section by young architects Sadar and Vuga linking the two buildings was only completed in 2001.

Across Prešernova cesta you will see the Serbian Orthodox Church of Ss. Cyril and Methodius (Cerkev Sv. Cirila in Metoda), Ljubljana's only Orthodox church. It was built between 1935 and 1940 and is based on medieval Serbian churches.

And opposite the church you will see the Museum of Modern Art (Moderna Galerija, Cankarjeva 15), which opened in 1951. This was the first building designed by the post-war era's leading Slovene architect, Edvard Ravnikar.

At the corner of Cankarjeva and Prešernova, turn left and walk down one block. Just behind the Museum of Modern Art, along Tomišiceva, you will see the embassies of the United States (Prešernova 31) and Russia (Tomišiceva 9). Ljubljana is the only place in the world where the embassies of these former cold war rivals sit side by side. For security, there are no windows on the wall of each building which faces the other. More embassies are not far away: Germany's sits at Prešernova 27 and Austria's at Prešernova 23. All are housed in residential villas which are architecturally very interesting.

On the next block, at the corner of [ubiceva and Prešernova on your right is the former Mladika Girls' Lycée and Boarding House, today Slovenia's Ministry of Foreign Affairs (25 Prešernova). The building along Prešernova is the work of Fabiani (1906-7), while the boarding school building along
Šubiceva is the work of the first trained Slovene architect, Cyril Medod Koch (1910-2). The whole complex features a number of Art Nouveau details but is not overly decorated; instead, it relies on a contrasting color scheme to distinguish itself. Fabiani designed the corner clock tower to mirror that on the town hall on Mestni trg. This building was a major feature of Fabiani's Ringstrasse plan.

Kitty-corner to Mladika, on the other side of Prešernova at Šubiceva, you will find two more museums, the National Museum and the Natural History Museum (Narodni muzej and Prirodnoslovni muzej, Muzejska 1 and Prešernova 20) sharing the same building. Built from 1883 to 1885 but opened only in 1888 on the 40th anniversary of the reign of Emperor Franz Joseph I, the building was nicknamed the Rudolfinium after Franz Joseph's son, Crown Prince Rudolf.

From here, turn left onto Šubiceva ulica. A short way down the street, you will see one of Ljubljana's most important governmental buildings, Parliament (Državni zbor, Šubiceva 4). It was built between 1954 and 1959 and features numerous sculptures on the main facade. They are allegorical representations of the proletariat and symbolize values such as family and happiness, as well as various industries and technological innovations.

Across the street is Trg republike (Republic Square). Among the numerous features of the square is the TR3 tower (Trg republike 3), which houses several embassies and consulates, including those of Australia, Belgium, Mexico, South Korea, Switzerland and the UK. Behind the tower is the Cankar Cultural and Convention Center (Cankarjev dom, Prešernova 10). Designed by Ravnikar and built between 1982 and 1983, it is one of the youngest buildings in the district. Very little of the building is actually visible, since the majority of its auditoriums and galleries are actually underground, spread out under the square.

Walk past Cankarjev dom to Erjaceva cesta, turn right and walk back out to Prešernova. If you need a drink, cross over and stop into the Pilon Café (Prešernova 15). Otherwise, at Prešernova and turn left. Here, between Erjaceva and Gregorciceva, is the Palace of the Provincial Government, today the seat of the Slovene government (Vladna Palaca, Prešernova 8). One of the first major structures completed after the 1895 earthquake, the building features a Florentine neo-renaissance façade designed so as to evoke strength and power. The effect was heightened by the addition of two figures flanking the central entrance that represent Law and Authority.

Across Gregorciceva is the Academy of Commerce / Economics High School (Trgovska akademija / Ekonomska šola, Prešernova 6). Designed by Vladimir Šubic, who also built the Neboticnik in this district, this building and the two neighboring buildings provide a unique opportunity to see Šubic's development as an architect over a period of nearly a decade. The apartment building next door on Prešernova was built by Šubic between 1927 and 1928, while the Chamber of Commerce building around the corner on Gregorciceva was built by him between 1929 and 1930. The corner building was erected last, between 1930 and 1934.

Nearly at the bottom of Prešernova cesta is the Embassy of Macedonia (Prešernova 2), renovated in late 2004 and early 2005 and restored to its original Art Nouveau grandeur. Across the street is another impressive Art Nouveau building, this time an apartment house (Prešernova 1).

Just outside the Prešernova cesta district are several more interesting buildings, as well as several unique cafes and restaurants. Just beyond the end of Prešernova cesta is Trg Mladinskih Delavnih Brigad (TMDB), home to two unique cafes: Tramvaj Expres (TMDB 10), a pizzeria housed in an early 20th century Prague tram, and Snedvic Progres (TMDB 12), a sandwich shop with a distinctly Socialist theme.

Just below TMDB, at the corner of Tržaška cesta and Tivolska cesta is the old Tobacco Factory, home to the Tobacco Museum (Tobacni muzej, Tobacna ulica 5). Though open only two days per month, a visit to the museum is a good way to gain access to one of Ljubljana's earliest and largest industrial complexes. Opened in 1871, the factory hit its peak in the 1890s, producing some 103 million cigars per year - including those of the imperial court in Vienna. After World War One, the factory produced primarily cigarettes, and continued to do so until 2004, when production was finally halted. At the time of its construction, it was located on the very edge of the city, but development in the late 19th century was so intense that the factory found itself virtually in the center of town by 1894.

If you return to TMDB and follow Rimska ulica through to Igriška, you will soon see the Little Skyscraper (Mali Neboticnik, Igriška 3), built in 1931. The structure uses trompe l'oeil effects to give the impression that it is bigger than it actually is, which earned it its nickname.

Further along Igriška ulica, turn right at the corner of Erjaceva and you will see the old German Theatre, now the Slovene National Theatre and usually called simply "Drama" (Erjaceva 1). One of the city's major Art Nouveau buildings, the theatre was built between 1909 and 1911 as a theatre for Ljubljana's German-speaking community. After World War One, it became a cinema and now it is one of Slovenia's leading theatres.  

Around the corner on Slovenska is the German House (Nemška hiša, Slovenska 11), which was originally connected to the Drama building. Together, the two buildings served as a major focal point of the German community in fin-de-siecle Ljubljana. Like the Drama building, this one was also executed in Art Nouveau style. Cross Slovenska to get a good view of the façade.

Finally, at the intersection of Slovenska and Gregorciceva, you will find Ferant Garden (Ferantov vrt). This cluster of three buildings was built by Ravnikar between 1967 and 1973 - and he in fact lived in one of the apartments himself. The site was originally the forum in Roman Emona, and the façade of the buildings is raised so passers by may see the Roman ruins below. The tour ends here, on Slovenska cesta in the center of Ljubljana.

Home | Search | Contact Us | Services

Copyright © 2005, Wagner & Associates and Ljubljana Life Magazine.
All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.