Pri Škofu is not for everyone’s taste. The ambience in this tiny establishment tucked away in Trnovo, the neighborhood just up river from Ljubljana’s old town, is unduplicated in any of the city’s pizzerias or gostilnas. The food here is refreshingly tasteful. Eating out in Ljubljana doesn’t get any more personal than at Pri Škofu, unless you have the good fortune to be fed by someone’s grandmother. The clientele at Škofu is regular and fiercely territorial. People who love Pri Škofu find that they must eat there weekly, if not daily.

An Economist by trade, owner Maja Pitarevič has spent the last eight years cultivating a space to provide her guests simple, delicious food and friendly, relaxed service. Her menu goes beyond traditional Slovene fare to provide a few unique, "but different" offerings. The details at Pri Škofu are intimate and cozy: Damjana Koritnik’s handmade ceramic wall hangings, picture frames, and table decorations. Maja and her two cooks supply mystery and freshness. The result: satisfaction.

Maja changes the menu daily, and for this reason, Pri Škofu offers no printed menus other than a few computer printed copies of the daily Kosilo Menu, comprised of two to three prix fixe selections. First-timers may find this intimidating, as it requires a certain imagination and trust. The Kosilo Menu ranges from 1200 SIT to 1600 SIT. It typically includes soup, salad, entrée, and dessert. If you are lucky, the Chocolate Torte is the dessert of the day. A conspicuous chalkboard announces the few additional specials that can be ordered à la carte. Regulars know that even if their favorite njoki is not listed, the cooks at Pri Škofu can prepare it to order.

Over half of the menu items at Pri Škofu are similar to what you will find at other Gostilnas in Ljubljana. The similarities end there. Škof’s famous homemade Njoki (gnocchi) comes lavished in sauces of mushrooms (z jurčki), zucchini (z bučkami), arugula (z rukolo) or gorgonzola (z gorgonzolo). ^rna Rižota, made with nutty brown rice, is a perfect complement to woody flavored jurčki. The risotto at Škof is handsdown the best in Ljubljana, repeatedly providing the perfect al dente texture and flavor profile regardless of accompanying sauce. It can also be ordered with the same sauces as the Njoki. And Škof’s Štruklji, the traditional rolled dumpling filled with cheese, nuts or fruits, is uniquely presented, as is the Golaž.

Three house specialities include: Malancani Damjana, a sunburst of grilled eggplant slices surrounding a pilaf of white rice and buckwheat, covered in a light cheese sauce; Piknik na Travi, the freshest salad greens topped with your choice of tenderloin medallions, salmon or even grilled turkey flavorfully dressed with olive oil and fresh herbs; Biftek Škof, black pepper encrusted (Škorja) tenderloin medallions with cream sauce and rice.

Maja and her cooks shop daily for the freshest vegetables, fruits, and fish from the Central Market (Glavna Tržnica). Through intuitive teamwork, they balance flavors, textures, and colors of seasonal foods. Fresh herbs such as fennel, dill, and basil adorn their plates.

When I asked my friends how they would describe the food at Pri Škofu, they tell me, "Mmmmm, delicious." "The Best." "Something special." But normally, it’s difficult to get an answer because they are too busy savoring every bite.

Okrepčevalnica Pri Škofu

1000 Ljubljana

Tel. (01) 426 45 08

8h to 23h, Monday through Thursday, food service begins at 11h.

8h to 24h, Friday

12h to 24h, Saturday and Sunday

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