Venison

12/2/03


I've tried venison once a decade. Sort of.

I suspect most people have eaten venison either never, or constantly, depending on if they know a hunter. I don't know a hunter, so there's no freshly ground venison sausage being forced on me because someone's freezer is already packed with the stuff.

It's much easier to find beef than it is venison. But I try not to eat beef. I'm saving the rainforest.

One of the main reasons for the rainforest being clear cut is to make grazing space. I'm aware no one's cared about the rainforest since 1992, but it's still there (for today, at least). Pigs don't need grazing space, chickens and turkey and fish don't need grazing space, only cows. And buffalo, but the seven buffalo left in the world can graze off of the median strip of the Garden State Parkway.

I haven't eaten veal in 15 years. I avoid fast food for mostly socioeconomic reasons (if we only go to restaurants with minimum wage staff, then soon that's all that will be left). I should probably go full on vegetarian, but I hate vegetarian food. I don't want to be forced to order that one plain pasta dish at Friday's for $14. Veggie burgers taste like moldy bread soaked in grill scrapings. Just because I'm anti-animal-slaughter doesn't mean I'm pro-cucumbers and broccoli in every meal.

My favorite food is vegetarian, though: macaroni and cheese. It's not vegetarian so much as something that accidentally tastes good without adding meat. You can throw in a chopped up hot dog or a can of tuna if you want, but to me that's like putting glitter on the Mona Lisa.

The real reason I'm not a vegetarian is lunch. There's exactly one decent sandwich you can make without meat: peanut butter. Grilled cheese can't be made with an office microwave. Vegemite's only in Australia. Tofu's like eating a big booger, but without the flavor. Eating peanut butter sandwiches five days a week will revert me back into a six-year-old. So because of that, I cave in and eat meat.

But I try to avoid the traditional meats. I figure if I support the eating of non-traditional animals, it cuts down on the demand from current slaughterhouse employees, while boosting those kind humanitarian ostrich breeders. (Note: I have no proof that ostrich breeders are kinder than other animal breeders. I'm going simply on there being such a small demand for ostrich that the farmer can probably fill his orders just by plucking the birds that died of old age.)

Up there with ostrich is venison, deer meat. Deer are raised for food in Australia like cows, but in America the easiest way is to get a gun and shoot one yourself. I've never hunted before, but without hunters, the deer population would grow and grow, and half of them would starve to death once winter comes. A deer running free and then having one really bad day in November beats a cow who's crammed in a feedlot and fed his siblings' blood for the last few weeks of his life.

Venison's not readily available in most places. I've looked and looked, and only found it once a decade.

Eighties:

I lived in Wisconsin for half of third grade and all of fourth grade. It was at that stage in my life when your parents herded you in a car and took you to some house for a grown up party. The parents would stand around the kitchen and talk (why grownups liked to do this, I didn't know), and us kids would have the entire TV to ourselves. The house we were at had a brand new invention called a VCR, so we watched Willy Wonka.

On the ride over, Mom said there would be fish sandwiches. I thought that sounded nice. I liked fish sticks (I dipped them in ketchup at the time) and was interested in fish in another form.

The host, I think, was a fisherman and hunter. He might have been planning on a big catch, which in Wisconsin was through ice fishing. The ice was so thick most of the winter you could drive your car on the lake up to your drilled holes.

The 'fish' sandwich I ended up getting was a small lump of brown shredded meat in a puddle of gravy. I ate it, noticed it was bad, and wondered what kind of fish it was. The fish must have heard this guy's car on the ice and skedaddled, so he had to dig into his venison supply in the freezer.

If I knew it was venison, maybe I'd enjoy it (unless someone used that new VCR to show Bambi). But I figured it was just nasty brown fish.

Nineties:

We moved from Wisconsin to Pennsylvania, and then to glorious New Jersey. While a few of us embrace everything about this fine paved state, most high school students felt this desire to get the hell out of the state for college. It didn't matter where, just so long as the college wasn't in New Jersey. There's a ring of colleges on New York and Pennsylvania borders just to accommodate these students. My sister Bridgette chose a little farther north, New Hampshire.

She didn't have a car up there, so Dad ferried her to and from school in the minivan. Jeff and I are two years ahead of her, so when she finished sophomore year, we finished senior year. Like most recent college graduates, we had no jobs. Bridgette was going to be ready to be picked up on a Wednesday. Dad could take time off of work for it, or we could do it.

Jeff and I took turns driving the empty minivan up into New England to her school. Bridgette knew the good restaurants in her area, so once we arrived, we went to the Common Man.

The Common Man's menu had the usual array of steaks, chicken, fish, and venison stew. Hold on a sec, venison stew? I usually try to get the food on the menu that I'm not likely to get anywhere else. I look for deep dish pizza in Chicago, chowder in Boston and penguin burgers in Antarctica. I didn't know what food was native to a New Hampshire college town (aside from pot brownies) but venison stew fit the bill.

The stew came out, a big dish of mashed potatoes with brown gravy. There were numerous chopped up squares on top. I didn't quite remember what venison tasted like from Wisconsin. I heard it was kind of tough and gamey. But it would be a new flavor.

I took a bite. It was an old flavor: potatoes. This wasn't venison so much as potatoes on top of more potatoes. Maybe the gravy had a whitetail hair in it, but that's all.

I was eating this in May. Hunting season is in the fall. So if this was freshly hunted deer, it had been in deep freeze since last Halloween. Or the restaurant ran out of deer, kept the stew on the menu, and waved an antler over the mashed potatoes when someone ordered venison.

Zeros: or Aughts: or whatever the hell this decade will end up being called:

I found a job writing for a retail trade magazine. This year we decided to cover barbecue products for the first time. I normally cover non-foods, which means no matter what products I'm working with, I can't eat them. (I guess I could eat the pet food, but horse is not on my list of things to eat any time soon.) Barbecue is this middle ground between food and non-food, since it includes charcoal briquettes and lighter fluid. I volunteered for it, and finally got to write a food story.

One of the stores I always hit is Trader Joe's. It has a constantly changing array of foods, all of them unusual. One of the things in Trader Joe's freezer is venison burgers. It was never something that would fit in the magazine before (especially not in the baby wipe stories I'm usually writing). But it fit perfectly now. I picked up a package. I also grabbed a pound of buffalo burgers.

This was over the summer, and Mom had just had a concrete patio poured at her house in Connecticut. A barbecue was a great way to christen it, and I brought all my weirdo frozen meats. But Mom had already planned on enough food to feed the proverbial army, and made a huge pot of macaroni and cheese. I couldn't pass it up. I gorged myself.

A little later, the venison and buffalo burgers were slipped on the barbecue. I was busy standing around the kitchen talking (and having a good time; maybe I'm a grown up now). Those at the barbecue who didn't have macaroni and cheese at their favorite food (maybe they were dropped on their heads at some point) scarfed up most of the burgers, but left one of each for me.

The burgers were cooked, and now getting cold. I had to eat them quick, or I'd lose my chance at venison for another decade. I ate the buffalo burger first. I had those before, thanks to them being a staple at Jersey diners, and wanted to get my tongue up to speed on meat consumption before I started on the venison. The buffalo didn't taste all that different from beef. To tell the truth, I was tasting the hamburger bun more than anything. My tongue was just tuckered out. After so much nice cheese sauce, the taste buds had decided to mostly close up shop for the day.

On to the venison burger. It had what looked like a barbecue sauce coating, although my tongue was in no shape to tell. Through reverse Lamaze breathing, I was able to get the whole thing down. I barely tasted it. It was more a matter of gastrointestinal spatial relations than really enjoying food. Another decade gone, and without really tasting venison.

Some time in 2015, I'll get the chance to try venison again. And I'm sure I'll blow it then, too. The spacecraft will shake and I'll drop my venison tube in an airlock, or the hover-drive thru will mess up my order, or a robot steals my food.

Maybe the Fates are telling me that this half-assed weird animal diet isn't the way to go. Either be a full on vegetarian, or suck it up and hit McDonalds every week. I can't skirt the issue entirely by eating alligator.

Here's a proposition, Fates. I'll go vegetarian, if you stop sending delicious deer running in front of my car. Deal?

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