Food, Cooking, and Tales of Culinary Disaster

Deconstructed Vegetable Sushi

I love sushi, but it requires a certain amount of time and deftness which I don't always have. I came up with this last night to satisfy my sushi cravings. It's vegan (which means it's also pareve) for those who are keeping track.

Cook 1 cup of medium-grain rice in 2 cups of water, per usual. While the rice is cooking, toast a sheet of nori, and cut or tear into bite-sized pieces. Put on the bottom of the plate or dish. Cut 2 medium carrots, one peeled and seeded cucumber, and one avocado into bite-sized pieces. Toast some white sesame seeds in a dry pan over medium heat for a couple of minutes. Finally, add a pinch of salt and a pinch of sugar to a scant 1/4 cup of rice vinegar and stir to dissolve.

After the rice is done, stir in the rice vinegar and let cool to room temperature. Spread the rice on top of the nori, and top with the carrots, cucumber, and avocado. Throw in some pickled ginger, if you like. Top with sesame seeds. Dissolve wasabi paste in soy sauce to taste, and pour over.

I suspect this would also work with various other sushi fillings, but I haven't tried it.

The Cure for What Ails Me

I get headaches--a combination of sinus, tension and migraines--the kind that make me want to chew off my own head. A few years back, when I was working at the World's Most Dysfunctional Office, one of my co-workers gave me this little OTC pharmaceutical cocktail. Apparently, both he and his mother get the same kind of sinus/tension/migraine headaches that I do. His mother had been playing medication roulette for some time, and finally hit upon this combination. Therefore, without further ado, I present Travis's Mom's Headache Remedy

Ingredients:
1 Excedrin Migraine tablet (1/2 dose)
1 Excedrin PM tablet (1/2 dose)
1 Sudafed tablet (1/2 dose)
Generic equivalents are just as good as the brand names, in my experience. When I'm really in a bad way, I wash the pills down with my caffeinated beverage of choice. In my experience, Travis's Mom's Headache Remedy works best when immediately followed by a two-hour nap, but I know that this isn't always possible.

Disclaimer: I am not a doctor, nor do I play one on TV. Take Travis's Mom's Headache Remedy at your own risk. I make no promises as to the effectiveness of Travis's Mom's Headache Remedy. Always read the label on any medication you take. Don't sue me; I don't have any money anyway.

Chocolate Chip Cake

I originally downloaded the my favorite cake recipe from the Internet. I got hold of it about seven years ago, and I've been tinkering with it ever since. The basic recipe is fairly simple.

Ingredients:
1/2 C. milk
8 T. (one stick) of butter--substitute margarine if you must, but don't tell me about it.
1 egg (for yellow cake) or two egg whites (for white cake)
1 1/2 C. all-purpose flour (7/8 that amount for cake flour, do your own math)
1/2 C. sugar
2 t. baking powder
1/2 t. salt
1 C. semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate chips (I use mini-chips, suit yourself)
1/2 t. vanilla powder (or to taste)
NOTE: If you are using liquid vanilla extract, double the amount. If you're using an actual vanilla bean, scrape out the pod and add it to the liquid ingredients, or infuse it in the warm liquid.

Heat oven to 400 degrees F. Butter and lightly flour a single round or square cake pan. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over very low heat. Don't let the butter get warm enough to cook the egg. While the butter is melting, combine the dry ingredients, leaving out the chocolate chips. When the butter is completely melted, add the milk and the egg. Blend well and stir into the dry ingedients. Beat the batter either by hand or machine just until the lumps are gone. Stir in the chocolate chips. Pour it all into the cake pan and bake 20-25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

I like to frost the cake with Nigella Lawson's Chocolate Ganache, made with bittersweet baker's chocolate (see below). Chocolate buttercream frosting is also good, as is milk chocolate ganache--although that's a bit too sweet for my tastes. It's also fine without any frosting.

One obvious variation is leaving out the chocolate chips. I've substituted cocoa powder for flour in various amounts, and it works fairly well at 3/4 C. flour and 3/4 C. cocoa. However, there's no shortage of chocolate cake recipes out there, so if chocolate cake is what you want, you might do better to try another recipe.

Wine for Less Than $5

I'm allergic to beer--to malt, actually--which means that when I want something alcoholic with food or in the evening, I usually have a glass of wine. I'm not a heavy drinker by any stretch of the imagination, but as I do like to have glass with or after dinner when I have the time, I'm always looking for good inexpensive wine. I'm not a collector; I actually buy the stuff to drink it. Recently, my personal challenge has been to find good wine for $5/bottle or less.

Trader Joe's is usually a good place to start. I've only just started buying wine there, but with one expception, I've done pretty well. That exception was a 2001 Pinot Grigio, from Gaetano D'Aquino. I'm glad I only paid $4 for it, because it was awful. It was thin--no depth of flavor whatsoever. It was also overly acidic and alcoholic. The nicest thing that I can think to say about it is that although it has strong hints of sourness and ammonia, it did stop short of actually tasting like something out of the cat's littlerbox. Does anyone have any good uses for bad wine? I'm certainly not going to drink it, and I won't cook with anything I wouldn't drink. I ought to ask Cayte, whose hobby is home winemaking, what she does with her bad batches.

On the whole, though, I've had fairly good luck with the inexpensive wines at Trader Joe's, especially the Southern Hemisphere ones. 2001 Terra Australis Shiraz, at $4.99/bottle, was good both with food and on its own. I seem to remember thinking that it tasted as though it ought to have been ever-so-slightly fizzy, but it wasn't. Another Aussie Shiraz, Enos, was even better, and only $4.69/bottle for the 2000. It was very smooth, but intense.

Normally I'm not much of one for Chardonnay, because most American ones are oaked to death. I want to taste the wine, not the barrel. (I'm given to understand that I'm not the only one who thinks so.) Again at Trader Joes, I found a Chilean Chardonnay--2001 San Andre, Lontue Valley--for $3.99 that was much better than anything domestic that I've ever had. I've yet to find anything better in the same price range. I would also like to try some of the wines coming out of South Africa--some of those wineries have been around since the 1700s.

More often that not, it's the inexpensive Italian wines that have let me down. I tried a Tuscan Sangiovese (normally a varietal I'm quite fond of) that was OK, but not great. And of course, there was that awful Pinot Griogio, which was labelled "delle Venezia". Perhaps they watered the grapes with canal water. I recently heard that inexpensive Spanish and Portuguese wines are highly underrated, and I am looking forward to putting that to the test.

Addendum

I found a description of Shiraz (Australian for Syrah)that I absolutely love.

...the typical Australian Shiraz bounds up and introduces itself with a slap on the back, sticks a pot of jam in your nose, then offers to put you up for the night and lend you money. --Jay McInerney, Bacchus and Me

And now that I think about it, I can't recall meeting a Shiraz I didn't like.

 

There's More Than One Way to Roast a Chicken

Warning: The following text provides instructions for partially disassembling a formerly living chicken. If such things disturb you, skip it.

So, on Friday, I found myself with an unexpected free evening and a craving for a good roasted chicken. Actually, not just a good roasted chicken, but the best roasted chicken that a human being could possibly produce. I turned to Cooks Illustrated, which is a magazine written by the most anal-retentive cooks in North America. That lot could suck the upholstery off furniture, but when they print a recipe, it works. Not to mention that the back cover of every issue has great art. But I digress.

I found a recipe that not only looked easy to follow, but cooked the chicken in less than an hour. Mine took longer, but that was in the preparation stage because I had to defrost it first. I can't resist tinkering with a recipe, so mine's not exactly the version in the magazine. I also had to improvise a bit, as I haven't got a broiler pan.

I'm not going to print the actual recipe, because you should be able to find it in the March 2000 issue. I'll just go over the high points. I assume that the chicken weighs about 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 pounds, because most supermarket chickens do. One final caveat--line your roasting or broiling pan with foil.

    Dissolve 1/2 cup each granualted sugar and table salt in enough water to cover the chicken. Let the chicken (giblets removed) sit in the salt & sugar water for at least half an hour. Don't skip this step, because it's your safety net in case the chicken cooks faster than you expected.
    Cut up vegetables and put them in the bottom of the roasting or broiling pan. I used potatoes, carrots, celery, and onions, but that doesn't mean you have to. (The Cooks Illustrated recipe used only potatoes.) Toss the vegetable(s) with a little bit of olive oil, salt, and pepper.
    If you are using a broiler pan, put the rack over the potatoes. If, like me, you don't have a broiler pan and you're using a roasting pan, put a baking rack inside the roasting pan.
    Take a pair of kitchen scissors and cut the backbone out of the chicken. Flip it over so that it's skin-side up, and flatten it out by breaking the wishbone. Remember, the chicken is beyond pain now, so be sure to give it a good whack so that it's as flat as possible. You can use a kitchen mallet or your bare hands, depending on what kind of day it's been. To add insult to injury, use your fingers (and the scissors if necessary) to pull off the extra fat at the tail end and loosen up the skin over the entire chicken.
    Grind up some herbs--I used tarragon, basil, oregano, and savory; Cooks has a couple of options; sage and garlic would probably work also--and mix them into some softened butter. Spread the herb butter around underneath the chicken skin.
    Put the chicken on top of the broiler or baking rack and roast it at 450-500 degrees F for 20 minutes. Rotate the pan and continue roasting for another 20-25 minutes.

My chicken ended up very dark in spots, as I had the oven turned all the way up to 500, and my oven runs hot anyway. However, it was still fabulous, and so were the veggies. Even the celery was good, and that's a vegetable I normally avoid.

 

Meditations on the Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Before I start, I don't want you get the impression that Ed is nothing more than an amazing collection of quirky eating habits. He is an interesting, thoughtful, and well-rounded person with many hobbies, interests, pursuits, and opinions. Food is not one of them.

One of Ed's favorite things to eat is a grilled cheese sandwich. I'd guess that in the five years we've lived together, I've made several hundred of them. I can and have made them in my sleep. Most of the time, they've turned out just fine. There was one occasion that I neglected to remove a square of waxed paper from one of the cheese slices, but that was one time out of several hundred. Perhaps the perpetual production of grilled chesse sandwiches is my karma. My mother tells me--and anyone else who'll listen--that when I was fourteen months old, I would eat nothing but grilled cheese sandwiches and spaghetti during a cross-country car trip. Personally, I don't think anyone should be karmically liable for anything that's done before the age of eighteen months. On the other hand, my mother did spend night after night warming up cans of spaghetti in hotel sinks full of hot water. I have no memory of this, mind you, but in this case I suppose Mom is a reliable source. Dad never comments, but it's entirely possible that the trauma of driving through seventeen states with a toddler has affected his memory.

Ed's perfect grilled cheese sandwich is made with two different kinds of cheese. This never would have occurred to me. Ideally, the cheeses are cheddar and monterey jack. American, colby, provolone, mozerella, and munster are acceptable in various combinations, but not Swiss. Never, ever Swiss, under any circumstances. Forget it and order pizza instead. The preferred bread is either Wonder Bread (which isn't really food, so I never buy it) or whole grain bread, or as Ed described it--"the kind with chunks of stuff in it, only not too large".

I used to think that there wasn't a whole heck of a lot you could do with a grilled cheese sandwich to make it interesting. In recent years, however, I have discovered that I'm wrong. Ed's idea of an interesting grilled cheese sandwich includes bacon. Personally, I can't face that much fat and salt at one sitting in any form. I have visions of his arteries screaming "help me, help" like Jeff Goldblum in that horrible remake of The Fly.

The best grilled cheese sandwich I ever had was made by the person who eventually catered my wedding. I was working for the local NBC affiliate, and Wendell was the local TV chef. A couple of times a month, he'd wheel in portable range top, pots, pans, knives, utensils, and loads of food. In seven minutes or less, he'd put together one of those things that looks easy on TV, but is actually a pain in the ass because you never see the 20 minutes of off-camera prep work. For those of you who don't know, the minute the cooking segment or show is done, the entire crew descends upon the resulting food like vultures at an all-you-can-eat carrion bar. This is the natural order of things in the world of TV production, and six decades of wide-scale TV production have produced a truly vicious and voracious breed of production assistants.

Anyway, on this pparticular day, Wendell had a grill theme going. He concocted a variety of sandwiches, and I came away from the fray with a delicious grilled gorgonzola, walnut, and pear sandwich on sourdough. This may be stretching the definition of "grilled cheese" a bit, but frankly, as I huddled in the corner of the studio defending my prize, I didn't care. I've never quite been able to recreate that sandwich, because I have no idea what kind of pears he used. However, if you're going to try it, brush the bread lightly with olive oil instead of buttering it.

 

Cheesecake Torte

Dieters, turn your heads. In fact, just skip to another part of the site.

This recipe was given to me by a lawyer whose specialty is torte. Not only is it delicious, it's also kosher for Passover. That means it's completely flourless, so if you're sensitive to gluten, no worries. It does have nuts, and of course dairy, but you can't please everyone.

Heat your oven to 325°F. Let 24 ounces (three packages) of cream cheese or Neufchatel cheese (hereafter referred to as "the cheese" or "the cheese mixture") come to room temperature while you go and look for your springform pan.

Dig out your springform pan, and grease it well with butter, margarine, or nonstick spray. Take 1/4 cup or so of ground almonds and dust the inside of the pan. Voila, you have a cheesecake crust. You can shake any excess almond around inside the pan; don't dump it out.

Whip your cheese until it is light and fluffy. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons of vanilla powder or 1 tablespoon of vanilla extract, 2 tablespoons of amaretto, and 1/4 teaspoon of almond extract to the cheese. Set aside.

Separate four eggs and put the yolks aside to use for whatever you use extra yolks for. Whip the egg whites until the are frothy, add 1/2 teaspoon of cream of tartar, and beat until the whites form soft peaks. Begin gradually adding 1 cup of sugar and beat until the whites form hard peaks. If the sugar isn't completely dissolved by the time you have hard peaks, incorporate it as best you can without overbeating. It's OK to have a little undissolved sugar in your meringue.

Use a wire whisk to gently fold abou a quarter the meringue into the cheese mixture. Repeat until the entire meringue is incorporated. Stir as little and as gently as possible. Pour the meringue into the pan and bake for 45 minutes. The cheesecake will puff up, then settle into a nice, dense torte with a large depression in the middle.

While the cake is in the oven, mix 1/4 cup of sugar, 1 tsp liquid vanilla or 1/2 teaspoon vanilla powder, and 1/4 teaspoon almond extract into 2 cupls of sour cream.

After the cake has baked for 45 minutes, remove it from the oven and turn the heat up to 450°F. Pour the sour cream mixture into the shallow depression in the top of the torte. When the oven reaches 450°F, put the torte back in for 5-7 minutes to set the topping. Remove and let cool before removing the side of the springform pan.

The second time I made this, I was completely out of amaretto and substituted triple sec. That worked out just fine, as would several other flavored liqueurs, I suspect. If you prefer to cook without alcohol, increase the amount of flavored extract. One of these days, I'll start toying with the flavor of the sour cream topping. Stay tuned.

 

Nigella Lawson's Chocolate Ganache

Someday, I'd like to thank Nigella for this personally.

The only change I've made from the version in How To Be a Domestic Goddess was to add ½ teaspoon of vanilla powder instead of using a vanilla bean. If you prefer to use the bean, steep it in the warm cream and remove it before you add the chocolate.

In a small saucepan, combine 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons of heavy cream, 1 tablespoon of butter, and 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla powder. Warm over low heat. Roughly chop 5 ounces of baker's chocolate. When the cream is warm, whisk in the chopped chocolate until it's smooth. Set the ganache aside to cool slightly, but not so much that you can't pour it. When it's cool, pour over whatever it is you wanted to put it on.

I like to use this in place of cake frosting. It's much faster and easier than making your own frosting, and it doesn't have that massive sugar hit that buttercream frosting does. It also easy to work with, in that the less you fuss with it after it's on the cake, the better it looks. It becomes wonderfully smooth and glossy as it sets up.

I recently used this on my mom's birthday cake, knowing full well that she normally prefers frosting. This was a huge hit, and it's entirely possible that I'll be tired of making it long before she runs out of birthdays.

As for the cake recipe itself, I pulled the original version down from alt.cooking.com late one lonely night at the radio station several years ago. I've tinkered with it since then, and even altered it to make chocolate cake by substituting unsweetened cocoa powder for flour to taste. One of things I particularly like about this recipe is that it makes a small amount; four very large pieces or nine medium-small ones.

Heat your oven to 400°F. Butter and lightly flour an 8" square cake pan. (If you're making chocolate cake, use cocoa instead of flour in the pan, and you won't get that white dust on the finish product--if you care about such things.) In a small saucepan, melt 1/4 lb. of butter on very low heat. When the butter is all melted, remove the pan from heat and add 1/2 cup of milk (at least 2%, please) and one lightly beaten egg.

Combine 1 1/2 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, and 1/2 cup of sugar, and one teaspoon of vanilla powder (if using liquid extract, add 2 teaspoons to the liquid instead) in a large mixing bowl. Gradually add the butter/milk/egg mixture to the dry ingredients and combine thoroughly. You now have a basic yellow cake. At this point, I usually stir in 1 cup of mini chocolate chips, but that's up to you.

Bake the cake for about 25 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then turn out onto a rack. Pour chocolate ganache over, or frost as you like.

 

Plain Vanilla

These days, vanilla means boring or basic. I blame it on the invention of artifical vanilla flavoring. Compared to the real thing, artifical vanilla starts at medicore and gets worse from there. Sometimes artifical vanilla leaves a nasty chemical aftertaste, and at other times, it doesn't seem to do anything. Vanilla is a very complex flavor, and it's not easy to synthesize well. Even, liquid vanilla extract has alcohol in it. Granted, that does burn off in the cooking process, but it can leave an off taste behind.

Personally, I haven't bought one of those nasty little brown bottles in about ten years. Most cooking snobs will tell you to use a real vanilla bean and absolutely, positively nothing else. However, that usually involves extra work, like steeping the pod in milk before you can get on with whatever it is you're making.

Instead, I like to use vanilla powder. It's made from real vanilla, and because it's concentrated, you actually use about half as much as you would if you were using liquid extract. I buy mine from Spices, Etc., but you can probably find it elsewhere if you look around.

So, what do you use it for? I use it in almost anything I bake, other than bread. I also like to put it in hot chocolate--or almost anything else chocolate, for that matter. Chocolate and vanilla, both originally from Latin America, combne wonderfully. I put it in fruit smoothies, waffles, and french toast. If you're into making your own soaps, candles, or skin care product, it would probably work well in those.

 

Macaroni & Cheese Casserole

My husband is an extremely picky eater, and even he likes this. The recipe is originally from my great-grandmother. My mom insists that you have to use extra sharp colby cheese, or it simply won't taste right. However, if you don't, she's highly unlikely to find out about it, so substitute as you like. I've used cheddar and Monterey jack. It does taste better with a really sharp cheese.

The ingredients are very simple--macaroni or similar pasta, plain tomato sauce, and extra sharp colby cheese. I've been known to thin out tomato paste with water in an emergency, which works fairly well if you whisk it thoroughly. Amounts vary with the size of the casserole dish you're using. I usually use about 1 to 1 1/2 cups of cooked pasta, 6 ounces of tomato sauce, and 3/4 to 1 cup of shredded cheese per layer.

Put the pasta in first, then the cheese, and cover with tomato sauce. You can pour it over and spread it around a bit, but don't worry if it's not even. Repeat for every layer except the top one. (I've found that most casserole dishes hold three layers.) For the top layer, put the tomato sauce in before the cheese, so that the cheese will form a crust on top of the casserole. If you're feeling extravagant and have no fear of fat, you can dot the top of the casserole with butter or margarine. I usually don't bother.

Bake at 350°F for 45 minutes to an hour, depending on how brown and crisp you want the crust to be. It's supposed to be gooey inside, so don't leave it in so long that it dries out.

 

Death of a Microwave

I don't usually have cooking accidents, but when I do, they're spectacular and often involve fire.

The first time I destroyed a microwave oven was when I was eleven years old, in the early 80s. My family had recently moved to a house that had a microwave. Our old house didn't have one, and the were new enough at the time that I wasn't really familiar with them.

For reasons that I've forgotten, I was home alone after school. I decided that a snack was in order and I had recently heard that you could bake potatoes in the microwave in less than half the time it took to bake them in the oven. Fine, I thought. Mom usually bakes potatoes for an hour. One third is less than one half, so I put the potato in for twenty minutes and wandered off. Therefore, I don't know what caught fire first--the potato, the plastic plate, or the inside of the microwave itself. I do know that our smoke alarm had fresh batteries.

It was twenty years before I destroyed another microwave, this time from the outside. Once again, it was in a house that I'd recently moved into. This time, the microwave was over the range. I was making potato pancakes, a traditional Chanukah food, for some friends of mine. I poured the cooking oil into the pan and set it on the burner. I hadn't intended to turn the burner on, but I did, out of habit. I walked into the other room to chat with my friends.

After ten minutes or so, one of my friends inquired as to the nature of the black smoke pouring out of the kitchen. I rushed in to see flames shooting up a good three feet from the pan, where the oil was burning. The plastic on the front panel of the microwave was blackened, twisted, and melting. I put it out by dumping about two pounds of cornmeal into the pan. Much to a cetain person's amusement, the digital clock continued to work.

Does anyone know how to get smoke stains off a textured ceiling?

 

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