---DRUGS:---
Get a LOT of female plants that have grown all the way and may even containseeds. Make sure they are absolutely dry by hanging them in a shed for some weeks. Now take off All the leaves that are bigger than 1/2 inch.You end up with just a stem with some buds sitting on it.Now strip off the buds into a container. (BTW, Hash (moroccan style) consitsts EXCLUSIVELY of the pressed grains of raisin that are sitting on top of tiny raisin glands that are most abundant on the leaves surrounding the seeds, or flowers. when the plant is dry this raisin hardens to form a very small particle, called "pollen"which is not actual pollen however.)So now youve got all the clean buds start crushing them over a kitchen sieve (mesh size about 0.5 mm). The seeds and stems will stay on top of the sieve."Grind" the leaves gently through the sieve. You end up with a sort of powdered leaves. Be sure that the thin skins that surround the seeds areincluded in this result, because they contain most of the raisin glands.You may repeat this process using a sieve with an iven smaller mesh size.(0.25 mm). Then take a cloth with the appropriate "mesh size" and rub the powder you have already got over this cloth. In the ideal case, only the finestt particles pass through the cloth and will ill consist only of tiny grains of raisin. Now take this powder and wrap it into a sheet of kitchen plastic foil. Now press this "package" between a few logs of wood.The result is a sheet of hashisch. If the sheet falls apart again you've got too much leafy stuff in between the raisin. Try a cloth with a smaller mesh size the next time. This procedure is only advised when you have so much weed to spare that you don't possibly smoke it all in a year.Good luck. -COCAINE: The basic formula for cocaine starts by purchasing or making tropinine, converting the tropinone into 2-carbomethoxytropinone (also known as methyl-tropan-3-one-2-carboxylate), reducing this to ecgonine, and changing that to cocaine. Succindialdehyde. This can be purchased, too. 23.2 g of succinaldoxime powder in 410 ml of 1 N sulfuric acid and add dropwise with stirring at 0* a solution of 27.6 g of sodium nitrite in 250 ml of water over 3 hours. After the addition, stir and let the mixture rise to room temp for about 2 hours, taking care not to let outside air into the reaction. Stir in 5 g of Ba carbonate and filter. Extract the filtrate with ether and dry, evaporate in vacuo to get the succindialdehyde. This was taken from JOC, 22, 1390 (1957). To make succinaldoxime, see JOC, 21, 644 (1956). Complete Synthesis of Succindialdehyde. JACS, 68, 1608 (1946). In a 2 liter 3 necked flask equipped with a stirrer, reflux condenser, and an addition funnel, is mixed 1 liter of ethanol, 67 g of freshly distilled pyrrole, and 141 g of hydroxylamine hydrochloride. Heat to reflux until dissolved, add 106 g of anhydrous sodium carbonate in small portions as fast as reaction will allow. Reflux for 24 hours and filter the mixture. Evaporate the filtrate to dryness under vacuo. Take up the residue in the minimum amount of boiling water, decolorize with carbon, filter and allow to recrystallize in refrigerator. Filter to get product and concentrate to get additional crop. Yield of succinaldoxime powder is a little over 40 g, mp is 171-172*. 5.8 g of the above powder is placed in a beaker of 250 ml capacity and 54 ml of 10% sulfuric acid is added. Cool to 0* and add in small portions of 7 g of sodium nitrite (if you add the nitrite too fast, nitrogen dioxide fumes will evolve). After the dioxime is completely dissolved, allow the solution to warm to 20* and effervescence to go to completion. Neutralize the yellow solution to litmus by adding small portions of barium carbonate. Filter off the barium sulfate that precipitates. The filtrate is 90% pure succindialdehyde and is not purified further for the reaction to create tropinone. Do this procedure 3 more times to get the proper amount for the next step, or multiply the amounts given by four and proceed as described above. Take the total amount of succinaldehyde (obtained from 4 of the above syntheses combined) and without further treatment or purification (this had better be 15.5 g of succindialdehyde) put into an Erlenmeyer flask of 4-5 liters capacity. Add 21.6 g of methylamine hydrochloride, 46.7 g of acetonedicarboxylic acid, and enough water to make a total volume of 2 liters. Adjust the pH to 8-10 by slowly adding a saturated solution of disodium phosphate. The condensate of this reaction (allow to set for about 6 days) is extracted with ether, the ethereal solution is dried over sodium sulphate and distilled, the product coming over at 113* at 25 mm of pressure is collected. Upon cooling, 14 g of tropinone crystallizes in the pure state. 2-Carbomethoxytropinone. A mixture of 1.35 g of sodium methoxide (this is sodium in a minimum amount of methanol), 3.5 g of tropinone, 4 ml of dimethylcarbonate and 10 ml of toluene is refluxed for 30 min. Cool to 0* and add 15 ml of water that contains 2.5 g of ammonium chloride. Extract the solution after shaking with with four 50 ml portions of chloroform, dry, evaporate the chloroform in vacuo. Dissolve the oil residue in 100 ml of ether, wash twice with a mixture of 6 ml of saturated potassium carbonate and three ml of 3 N KOH. Dry and evaporate in vacuo to recover the unreacted tropinone. Take up the oil in a solution of aqueous ammonium chloride and extract with chloroform, dry, and evaporate in vacuo to get an oil. The oil is dissolved in hot acetone, cool, and scratch inside of flask with glass rod to precipitate 2-carbomethoxytropinone. Recrystallize 16 g of this product in 30 ml of hot methyl acetate and add 4 ml of cold water and 4 ml of acetone. Put in freezer for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Filter and wash the precipitate with cold methyl acetate to get pure product. Methylecgonine. 0.4 mole of tropinone is suspended in 80 ml of ethanol in a Parr hydrogenation flask (or something that can take 100 psi and not react with the reaction, like stainless steel or glass). 10 g of Raney Nickle is added with good agitation (stirring or shaking) followed by 2-3 ml of 20% NaOH solution. Seal vessel, introduce 50 psi of hydrogen atmosphere (after flushing vessel with hydrogen) and heat to 40-50*. After no more uptake of hydrogen (pressure gauge will hold steady after dropping to its lowest point) bleed off pressure and filter the nickle off, rinse out bottle with chloroform and use this rinse to rinse off the nickle while still on the filter paper. Make the filtrate basic with KOH after cooling to 10*. Extract with chloroform dry, and evaporate the chloroform in vacuo to get an oil. Mix the oil plus any precipitate with an equal volume of dry ether and filter. Add more dry ether to the filtrate until no more precipitate forms, filter and add to the rest of the precipetate. Recrystallize from isopropanol to get pure methylecgonine. Test for activity. If active, skip down to the step for cocaine. If not active, proceed as follows. Stir with activated carbon for 30 min, filter, evaporate in vacuo, dissolve the brown liquid in methanol, and neutralize with 10% HCl acid in dry ether. Evaporate the ether until the two layers disappear, and allow to stand for 2 hours at 0* to precipitate the title product. There are many ways to reduce 2-carbomethoxytropinone to methylecgonine. I chose to design a Raney Nickle reduction because it is cheap and not as suspicious as LAH and it is much easier than zinc or sodium amalgams. Cocaine. 4.15 g of methylecgonine and 5.7 g of benzoic anhydride in 150 ml of dry benzene are gently refluxed for 4 hours taking precaution against H20 (the 2 should be on a lower level) in the air (drying tube). Cool in an ice bath, acidify carefully with hydrochloric acid, dry, and evaporate in a vacuum to get a red oil which is treated with a little portion of isopropanol to precipitate cocaine. As you can see, this is quite a chore. The coca leaves give ecgonine, which as you can see, is only a jump away from cocaine. If you can get egconine, then dissolve 8 1/2 g of it in 100 ml of ethanol and pass (bubble) dry HC1 gas through this solution for 30 min. Let cool to room temp and let stand for another 1 1/2 hours. Gently reflux for 30 min and evaporate in vacuo. Basify the residue oil with NaOH and filter to get 8.4 g of methylecgonine, which is converted to cocaine as in the cocain step above. Below is given a somewhat easier method of producing tropinone by the general methods of Willstatter, who was instrumental in the first synthetic production of cocaine and several other alkaloids. After reviewing this method, I found it to be simpler than the above in many respects. Tropinone. 10 g of pyrrolidinediethyl diacetate are heated with 10 g of cymene and 2 g of sodium powder, the reaction taking place at about 160*. During the reaction (which is complete in about 10 min) the temp should not exceed 172*. The resulting reaction product in dissolved in water, then saturated with potassium carbonate, and the oil, which separates, is boiled with dilute sulfuric acid. 2.9 g of tropinone picrate forms and is filtered.Here are two more formulas devised by Willstatter that produce tropinone from tropine. Take note of the yield differences. Tropinone. To a solution of 25 g tropine, dissolved in 10 times its weight of 20% sulfuric acid are added 25 g of a 4% solution of potassiumpermanganate in 2 or 3 g portions over 45 min while keeping the temp at 10-12*. The addition of permanganate will cause heat (keep the temp 10-12*) and precipitation of manganese dioxide. The reaction mixture is complete in 1 hour. A large excess of NaOH is added and the reaction is steam distilled until 1 liter of distillate has been collected. The tropinone is isolated as the dibenzal compound by mixing the distillate with 40 g of benzaldehyde in 500 cc of alcohol and 40 of 10% sodium hydroxide solution. Let stand several days to get dibenzaltropinone as yellow needles. Yield: 15.5 g, 28%. Recrystallize from ethanol to purify. Tropinone. A solution of 12 g of chromic acid in the same amount of water (12 g) and 60 g of glacial acetic acid is added dropwise with stirring over a period of 4 hours to a solution of 25 g of tropine in 500 cc of glacial acetic acid that has been warmed to 60-70* and is maintained at this temp during the addition. Heat the mixture for a short time on a steam bath until all the chromic acid has disappeared, cool and make strongly alkaline with NaOH. Extract with six 500 cc portions of ether and evaporate the ether in vacuo to get an oil that crystallizes readily. Purify by convering to the picrate or fractionally distill, collecting the fraction at 224-225* at 714 mm vacuo. The tropinones can be used in the above formula (or in a formula that you have found elsewhere) to be converted to cocaine. Remember to recrystallize the 2-carbomethoxytropinone before converting to methylecgonine. -MARICHUANA: Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous sectionof the plant was (has been replaced by synthetics) used to make rope.The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant isused by just about everyone to get HIGH.Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this"high," but thay can also be eaten. The axtive ingredient in marijuanaresin is THC (tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1 - 4 percent THC (4 per cent must be considered GOOD dope).Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated inMexice, Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc.,etc. Themarijuana sold in the United States comes primarily from, yes, theUniited States.It is estimated that at least 50 per cent of the grass on the streetsin America is homegrown. The next largest bunch comes actoss theborders from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama,occasionally South America, and occasinally, Africa.Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped fromthe flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is theground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name given to anysort of marijuana in Jamaica.)Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light,air or heat. It should always be stored in cool places.Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the lawsof supply and demand (and you thought that high school economicswould never be useful). A series of large border busts, a short growingseason, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuanaup. Demand still seems to be on the increase in the U.S., so prices seldomfall below last year's level.Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runslow, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rase about20 - 75 per cent during this time and then fall back to "normal."Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokersto turn to harder drugs instead. For this reason, no grass controlprogram can ever be beneficial or "successful." GROW IT! There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's:Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities" on thesubject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairlyvivacious one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you. OUTDOORS .Contrary to propular belief, grass grows well in many place on theNorth American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature doesnot raise above 75 degrees.The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day andshould be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after thelast frost of the year.Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored methodover the years, because grass seems to grow better without as muchattention when in its natural habitat.Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encoun-tered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both fromlaw enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take yourweed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You mustalso have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop.There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says youshould start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box(see the indoor section) and then transplant. The other theory is thatyou should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants willcome up with this method, but there is no shock of transplant tokill some of the seedlings halfway through.The soil should be preprepared for the little devils by turning itover a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime persquare yard of soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good watersoluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered severaltimes and left to sit about one week.The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting toogreedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants.The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not toomuch. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water willrot the root system.Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help providesome camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed.It is probally a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, aspeople tend to notice patterns. GENERAL GROWING INFO: Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the maleis not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still beplenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances.Marijuana can reach a hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish ona star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sexratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways.The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will liveanother 3 - 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice asmuch as males when they are mature.Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also breakapart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice testfor either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to thesoil, if they live and hang aroung, it is good soil, but if they don't,well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for theplants to grow well. SEEDS :To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice startingpoint is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. Theseeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shiriveledup, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop theseeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good forplanting purposes.The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting.BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2"deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days. SPROUTING :The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box(as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holespunched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus,soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixedin about one week before planting.When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soilaround the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into abaseball-sized hold in the permanent soil.If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a greensafe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation.If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about twohours befor sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cottongloves when handling the young plants.After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is alsoa good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased atnurseries) to help then overcome the shock. INDOOR GROWING :Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that itis much harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambientconditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good"plant.Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins.They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even requireyou to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVEAS MUCH OR MORE RESIN!If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and thenbuy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about onecubic foot of soil for each plant.The plants will need about 150ml of water per plant/per week. Theywill also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (however,the fresh air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke.)At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increasethe light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males.Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyondthis makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality.Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one hour oflight. This gives you more females.The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered withaluminum foil to reflect the light.The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of flouresent tube.The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. Thelight sources should be an average of twenty inches from theplant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may be mounted on a rackand moved every few days as the plants grow.The very best light sources are those made by Sylvania and othersespecially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types). HARVESTING AND DRYING :The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals,which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen.The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, whichreally doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch ofleaves in a cluster. If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the malesbefore they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resinto make the seeds.After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the femaleswill begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick.In some nefarious Middle Eastren countries, farmers reportedly put theirbeehives next to fiels of marijuana. The little devils collect the grasspollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosageof THC.The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia.If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Letthe female go another month and pick her.To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this isaccomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room.You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will makethe box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilatedto carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh.A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglassinsulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves.There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source.A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil leveland wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out any seedsby hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminumfoil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil."In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around andgive another ten seconds before you take them out. TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF :There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THCcontent of plants:You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cuttingback on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big.You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteenhours.You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise tothe flowers. This will increse the resin a bit.You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks.You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant,and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks.This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowersthan usual.If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, theywill produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the floweringalso, it may happen in as little as two weeks.You can employ a growth changer called colchicine. This is a bit hard toget and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort andcosts about $35 a gram.)To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution ofdistilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will causemany of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do comeup will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference betweensuch strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELYbe superweed.The problem here is that colchicine is a posion in larger quanities andmay be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, authorof CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicinetreatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants(all succeeding generations will also be polyploid) bacause of thispoisonous quality.However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very smallquantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although thesequantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you couldrecive form smoaking a seed-treated plant.It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planningto attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch offthe leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in theseedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted,wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficuly to recognize asmarijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but suchwrecked creatures have been known to produve so much resin that itcrystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - mightbe wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens. PLANT PROBLEM CHART :Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passingjudgment - soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light,fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools. SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE ~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Larger leaves turning yellow - Nitrogen dificiency - addsmaller leaves still green. nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.Older leaves will curl at edges, Phosphorsus dificiency -turn dark, possibaly with a purple add commercial phosphate.cast.Mature leaves develop a yellowish Magnesium dificiency -cast to least veinal areas. add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content.Mature leaves turn yellow and then Potassium dificiency -become spotted with edge areas add muriate of potash.turning dark grey.Cracked stems, no healthy support Boron dificiency - addtissue. any plant food containing boron.Small wrinkled leaves with Zinc dificiency - addyelloish vein systems. commercial plant food containing zinc.Young leaves become deformed, Molybedum dificiency -possibaly yellowing. use any plant food with a bit of molydbenum in it. BAD WEED/GOOD WEED :Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answerto this oft-asked inquiry is, yes!Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are goingto do relates directly to how much effort you are going to put into it.There are no instant, supermarket products which you can spray on Kansascatnip and have wonderweed, but there are a number of simplified,inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!) thich will enhance mediocregrass somewhat, ant there are a couple of fairly involved processeswhich will do up even almost-parsley weed into something worth writinghome about. EASES :1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restrictedfashion (such as a can with nail holes punched in its lid) and add abunch of dry ice, and the place the whold shebang in the freezer for afew days. This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product,however, this only works with dry ice, if you use normal, everydayfreezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or anothersocially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish placefor a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass willdevelop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny,but does increase the potency.3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a fullday or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, butif you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick ofsuper-Colombian, right-from-the-President's-personal-stash,and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your bags toleave town before the people arrive for their shares, well, you mightat least try it. Can't hurt.4. Take the undisirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed,worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbingalchol to cover everything.Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DONOT USE GAS - the alchol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat,remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alchol.When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the twoquantities of alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture.Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hiddenin the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the throughlycombines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon. SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN: :Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney.It is a plastic tumbler which acts much like a commercial cottin gin.One takes about one ounce of an harb and breaks it up. This is then placedin the Marygin and the protuding knod is roatated. This action turnsthe internal wheel, which separates the grass from the debris (seeds,stems).It does not pulberize the grass as screens have a habit of doing and iseasily washable. Marygin is available from: GRASS P.O. Box 5827 Tuscon, Arizona 85703 $5.00 Edmund Scientific Company 555 Edscorp Building Barrington, New Jersy 08007 Free Catalog is a wonder of good things for the potential grassgrower. They have an electric thermostat greenhouse for startingplants for a mere $14.95.Soil test kits for PH - $2.40Al test - $9.95Soil thermometer - $2.75Lights which approzimate the true color balance of the sun and areprobably the most beneficial types available: 40 watt, 48 inch - 4 for$15.75.Indoor sun bulb, 75 or 150 watt - $5.75.And, they have a natural growth regualtor for plants (Gibberellin) whichcan change height, speed growth, and maturity, promote blossoming,etc. Each plant reacts differently to treatment with Gibberellin...there'sno fun like experimenting - $2.00 SUGGESTED READING :THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, Bill DrakeStraight Arrow Publishing - $3.50625 Third StreetSan Francisco, CaliforniaFLASHP.O.Box 16098San Fransicso, California 94116Stocks a series of pamphlets on grass, dope manufacture, cooking. |