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HOW TO MAKE NITROGLYCERIN

Demolition Article #1

Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care and caution when you are doing this. Even if you have made this stuff before.

This first article will give you information on making nitroglyerin, the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as straight dynamites, and geletin dynamites.

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Making nitroglycerin

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1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 ml. Level with fuming red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.

2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temp.

3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming sulferic acid (99% h2so4). In other words, add to the now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 ml. Of fuming sulferic acid. When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering.

4. When the two are mixed, lower thier temp. By adding more ice to the bath, about 10-15 degrees centigrade. (Use a mercury-operated thermometer)

5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be added in small amounts using a medicine dropper. (Read this step about 10 times!) Glycerin is added slowly and carefully (i mean careful!) Until the entire surface of the acid it covered with it.

6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration will produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade! If the solution should go above 30 degrees, immediately dump the solution into the ice bath! This will insure that it does not go off in your face!

7. For hte first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be gently stirred. In a normal reaction the nitroglycerin will formas a layer on top of the acid solution, while the sulferic acid will absorb the excess water.

8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be transferred slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this is done the nitroglycerin will settle at the bottem so the other acids can be drained away.

9. After removing as much acid as posible without disturbing the nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case you didn't know) solution. The sodium is an alkalai and will nuetralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be repeated as much as necesarry using blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is.

10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from the bicarbonate. His is done with and eye- dropper, slowly and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on metal and ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with a clear blue flame.

** Caution ** nitro is very sensative to decomposition, heating dropping, or jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.

Demoltion Article #2

I have decided to skip the article on mercury fluminate for a while and get right into the dynamite article.

Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stablizing agent to make it much safer to use. For the sake of saving time, I will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain NG. The numbers are percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the exact amounts. These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.

no.--ingredients--amount
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#1 NG 32
sodium nitrate 28
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotten 1

#2 NG 24
potassium nitrate 9
sodium nitate 56
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 2

#3 NG 35.5
potassium nitrate 44.5
woodmeal 6
guncotton 2.5
vaseline 5.5
powdered charcoal 6

#4 NG 25
potassium nitrate 26
woodmeal 34
barium nitrate 5
starch 10

#5 NG 57
potassium nitrate 19
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 12
guncotton 3

#6 NG 18
sodium nitrate 70
woodmeal 5.5
potassium chloride 4.5
chalk 2

#7 NG 26
woodmeal 40
barium nitrate 32
sodium carbonate 2

#8 NG 44
woodmeal 12
anhydrous sodium sulfate 44

#9 NG 24
potassium nitrate 32.5
woodmeal 33.5
ammonium oxalate 10

#10 NG 26
potassium nitrate 33
woodmeal 41

#11 NG 15
sodium nitrate 62.9
woodmeal 21.2
sodium carbonate .9

#12 NG 35
sodium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 1

#13 NG 32
potassium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 30
guncotton 1

#14 NG 33
woodmeal 10.3
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotton .7
potassium perchloride 27

#15 NG 40
sodium nitrate 45
woodmeal 15

#16 NG 47
starch 50
guncotton 3

#17 NG 30
sodium nitrate 22.3
woodmeal 40.5
potassium chloride 7.2

#18 NG 50
sodium nitrate 32.6
woodmeal 17
ammonium oxalate .4

#19 NG 23
potassium nitrate 27.5
woodmeal 37
ammonium oxalate 8
barium nitrate 4
calcium carbonate .5

Household equivalants for chemicles

It has come to my attention that m any of these chemicles are sold under brand names, or have household equivalants. here is a list that might help you out.
acetic acid-- vinegar
aluminum oxide-- alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate-- alum
aluminum sulfate-- alum
ammonium hydroxide-- ammonia
carbon carbonate-- chalk
calcium hypochloride-- bleaching powder
calcium oxide-- lime
calcium sulfate-- plaster of paris
carbonic acid-- seltzer
carbon tetrachloride-- cleaning fluid
ethylene dichloride-- Dutch fluid
ferric oxide-- iron rust
glucose-- corn syrup
graphite-- pencil lead
hydrochloric acid-- muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide-- peroxide
lead acetate-- sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide-- red lead
magnesium silicate-- talc
magnesium sulfate-- Epsom salts
naphthalene-- mothballs
phenol-- carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate-- cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulf.-- chrome alum
potassium nitrate-- saltpeter
sodium dioxide-- sand
sodium bicarbonate-- baking soda
sodium borate-- borax
sodium carbonate-- washing soda
sodium chloride-- salt
sodium hydroxide-- lye
sodium silicate-- water glass
sodium sulfate-- glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate-- photographer's hypo
sulferic acid-- battery acid
sucrose-- cane sugar
zinc chloride-- tinner's fluid

Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to get one or more of the ingredients try another one. If you still can't, you can always buy sm all amounts from your school, or maybe from various chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as possible.

l i q u i db l u e

All content copyright© 2002 by liquid blue. If there is anything that should not be here please notify me and it will be removed. If you fuck with our shit we'll track you down and mutilate your genitals.

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