Quebec City by freight train

Halifax, Nova Scotia to Charny, Quebec
distance: approx 950km by rail
duration: approx 16 hours, including diversions, to Quebec; 2.5 days round trip.
date: 09-11 August 2001 (and i have a city bus ticket from QC to prove it!)

Well, I finally did it - I hopped on a westbound
freight train and I had the time of my life. It really
was the most amazing thing I've done in a couple of
years. I made it all the way to Quebec City before
returning! I really had planned on Toronto but, as
you'll hear, I ended up in Quebec.

I got to the container piers at 10:30am on Friday and
established myself a little base camp on top of a
hornet's nest by the side of the rails. They weren't
too nuts about me being there and they let me know
it...oddly enough, that was the only negative thing to
happen to me on the whole trip!

Around 1:00pm a container train long enough for me to
think at least part of it must be going to Montreal
rolled by and I hopped aboard.  The weather was
gorgeous, the views unparalleled in my travelling
experience. And how's this for luck - not only did I
manage to locate a solid-bottomed hopper, I actually
managed to climb on the only one on the whole train
that had a platform at the back, so instead of spending
the trip hunkered down beside the container in the
four-foot-deep space beside it, I spent the whole time
up in the sun on the walkway on the platform.

The typical eastern Canadian freight train hinders the ability
of a rider to take the train - we do not transport livestock,
but rather are a container handling facility. This means
that there are no boxcars, only containers and the
gondola cars that hold them. Gondola cars are actually
theoretically better than boxcars as they offer a smoother
and quieter ride than a rickety, rocking boxcar...but
someone at the rail company realised this and thus today's
gondola cars have grid patterned metal crossbars on the
bottom - in effect, there's nowhere to sit/lie/stand. I
lucked out by managing to locate a solid-bottomed
gondola car.

I had also done a lot of research prior to heading out on
the rails of Canada. I joined a couple of rail riding groups
online, visited websites, and went down to the container
terminals here in Halifax and talked to rail crews. I was
fully prepared for the trip, but I was absolutely not
prepared for the experience. It was so much more amazing
than I had dreamed. Even when, as you'll hear, I ended up
more or less lost in a small Quebec town, the surprise at being
stranded was outweighed by the thrill of being where I
was and doing what I was doing.

Anyhow, I was about two-thirds of the way back on
the train, far enough that I could not be seen from the
engine, so I was having the time of my life! I was like a
big ol' dog with his head out the window of a car...we
sped along incredibly fast (they really don't look like it,
but those trains go 70 mph at times) and I thoroughly
enjoyed every single minute of it.

I was kind of worried about getting stranded at Windsor
Junction about 20 miles out, but the train didn't
even stop there. I suddenly realized there was going to
be no second-guessing and going back...as it was, the
train literally did not stop until it was in NEW
BRUNSWICK. How shocked was I to see the tidal mud flats
of the Nova Scotia/NB border rolling by! There were
plenty of places where the tracks diverged and I was
concerned about the possibility of the engineers breaking
up the train and putting pieces off to the side for other trains
to take in other directions. As surprised as I was that the
train was not stopping anywhere, I was happy we were
rolling!

Let me tell you...NOTHING looks the same from the tracks.
I caught the train at the container piers at the start of the
Bedford Basin. I was astonished to find that everything,
even in this area of the city with which I was relatively
familiar, looked completely different. The ocean looked
gorgeous, the sun shone, and the breeze lifted my spirits.
The most incredible part of Nova Scotia to see was the
Cobequid Mountains. Of course, this part of NS doesn't
really have "mountains", as such, but the 500-800 foot
steep hills certainly seem big and menacing enough when you're
speeding along through them.

Yeah, I tell you, nothing looks the same from a train. For
another thing, it's the only way to see unspoiled
wilderness in this world anymore! Believe it or not,
the train actually HIT three moose walking on the
tracks, one in NS and two in NB. Of course, highways
are paved through the gentlest areas possible but
railroads cling to the sides of the hills, unable to take
the dramatic ups and downs of a paved road...it was
amazing to roll through the Cobequid Mtns looking
hundred of feet down into the valleys.

In Moncton, the game was nearly up...as the train
rolled to a near-stop a CN Rail truck pulled up. I
thought for sure I'd been spotted. I hopped off and ran
into the brush and ran back aboard when I realised it
wasn't after me! of course,  I was being really paranoid.
Every time the trains topped to break up or let another
pass, I assumed I'd been spotted. Once I met the crew,
however, I became a lot more at ease. But I'm getting way
ahead of myself...so eventually night came on and it got
cold, cold, cold! Fortunately I was prepared for that.
What I was not prepared for, however, was at midnight
when (in the middle of nowhere) the train stopped and
started being broken up onto side rails. Worried that I
might end up stranded and wanting to be assured of
staying on the part of the train sticking with the
engines, I approached the crew as they waited for
another train to pass...and here's where my luck REALLY
came into play!

I knew I had found a good guy - in the middle of night,
in the middle of nowhere, he sees this guy run out of
the darkness into the lights and instead of being
afraid of me being a weirdo, the first thing he did was
to be concerned for my safety and warn me another train
was coming. Off to the side, we shook hands and he
asked me where I was from - my classic line was "About
eight cars back." He was amazed (not many people ride
freight trains anymore!) and said he would "get me set
up alright". I thought that meant he was going to
string my by my heels from the front of the engine, but
get this - he actually put me, alone, in the second
engine cab for the night! I had a heated cab with
washroom and refrigerator for the night! We certainly are
a rare breed these days, railriders - he said in the
past six years he hadn't had a single one! Once I was
"set up" I popped on my discman and was amazed to hear
which CD was in there - Bob Dylan's Blood On Tthe
Tracks!  What are the odds?! lol...

He told me the train was going to Toronto, but
unfortunately in the middle of Quebec there was a crew
change. He also gave me tons of tips on railriding,
including only take a train with a 5600 or 5700 series
engine, since they're the only main line trains that
run all the way from Halifax to Toronto. About 16 hours
after I'd gotten on we hit the HUGE rail yard and I
thought "Finally, I'm in Montreal!" but it turned out
to be Charny, PQ. I had no idea where the hell that
was, but it sounded small. The second crew turned out
to be more strict and didn't want me on board, so they
gave me the boot and I walked to the west end of the
yard to wait for another train. I found out from a
local along the way that I was over 250km from
Montreal after 16 hours of riding, so I decided to give
up on going all the way to Toronto.

To backtrack...from the engine cab, looking out ahead
into the deep black forests illuminated by the bright
headlamp of the front locomotive, everything took on
a ghostsly but serene and peaceful feel. It was really
remakrable to see just how different everything looked.
Occasionally, when a river or lake was nearby, steam
would waft through the trees, veiling everything in
astonishingly beautiful mists.

Ah, the lakes and forests...so beautiful! All the way from
Halifax to Charny, the train spent most of the time rolling
by pristine lakes and waterways with no human presence.
Also, the forests had more wildlife than I've ever seen from
a highway. The bridges were really something else, too...
I'm not afraid of heights, but it was pretty darn scary to
traverse some of those bridges. For one thing, most (whether
over valley or river) don't have sides, only the flat track
base, so looking down both from the observation deck
of the hopper and from the inside of the cab, I got this intense
feeling of weightlessness, of flying. And speaking of flying...
I spent a lot of tiem watching the controls in the cab and
I had never imagined a freight train could go so fast - the
dials kept pushing up over 65 mph! (115 kmh).
Unfortunately, the tracks wind such a great distance and
meander so dramatically that speed alone can't compensate.
Iit took 16 hours, as I said, just to get to Charny.

So I walked to the east end of the Charny yard but after seven
hours with no 5600 or 5700 trains rolling by, I gave up
and walked into Charny, and do you think I could find a
single person who spoke a word of english?! I needed to
find a Greyhound terminal but Charny - I told you it
sounded small - didn't have one. I found a local cop
who VOLUNTEERED to drive me all the way to Quebec City!
I could not believe it! It was a little weird getting
out of the cop car in front of the bus station, but I
was still pretty galdurned lucky!

I got to spend an entire day and night (Saturday and
Sat night) in Old Quebec City. It was SO beautiful! I
had completely forgotten how much I love that town!
Coincidentally, it was Jours D'Histoires festival week
so there was plenty to see! But here's the one thing
that really crushed me - guess who was playing that
very night one mile away? BOB DYLAN!!! He was in the
very same city I was and I didn't know about it in
advance! I could have seen him for the second time in a
week after Halifax!

Anyway, after a wonderful time in Quebec, I was heading
for Edmundston, where I caught another train back here,
but those French folk screwed me up and told me to get
on the wrong bus. I didn't misunderstand them, they
really did tell me the wrong bus, so when the bus
stopped at the end of the route beside a giant sign
saying 'Gare D'autobus - Rimouski' I knew I was in
trouble. I had to get on another bus to Riviere Du Loup
and another to Edmundston. It was a worthwhile side
trip to Rimouski, though, because I'd never been that
far up the Gaspe Pen and it was lovely rugged country!

In Edmundston, NB I waited only one hour before train
5616 rolled by and I hopped aboard. The fellow from the
first train had told me that the second engine is
always unlocked and unoccupied but 5616 had a French
crew (damn the French!) and I was worried they might
kick me off like the other ones did, so  I spent a long
but amazing night and morning in a flatboard hopper
halfway back on the train. I got back to Halifax about
six hours ago.

And lest anyone should believe I made all this up - I
have a Quebec City bus transfer that clearly says "le
10 Aout 2002", not to mention four days of amazing
memories. I highly recommend freight trains to anyone
travelling anywhere! It takes a long time to get
anywhere (damn Canada!) Look at it this way - I got a
four day trip a third of the way across the country
with 20 hours in Quebec City for only the cost of the
$80 bus ticket to Edmunston plus food!

I did so much research and talked to lots of rail crews
before leaving, but the trip was still so radically
different from anything I might have expected. The rail
crews sure are decent folk, though! I probably wouldn't
expect my luck to be so good next year - what are the
odds that I'll find another small town cop willing to
drive me all the way to a city with a Greyhound
terminal - but I will DEFINITELY be heading out again
next summer! Anyone wanna come with??




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