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  Spray Painting At Home. All The Tips

By Damien Reid

    
 

Home handyman paints are getting better every day giving professional results from off the rack aerosol cans. Here's everything you need to know about spraying your car to fix those niggling scratches and dents. 


Remember to mask
off thoroughly

Spray painting should always be done in a clean, well-ventilated area away from dust, leaves and other things which may stick to the wet surface.

After sanding back the surface as described in our previous columns, mask the area with tape and large sheets of paper. The area to be painted should include the repair zone plus surrounding metal to the nearest panel join or gap for a smooth blend.

Wipe the surface clean with wax and grease remover to eliminate all contaminants including dust which will allow the primer to stick properly. Australia's K&H Surface Technologies are leaders in this market and have products to cover all bases including masking paper and wax remover available through your local Autobarn store.

If the repair surface is not completely smooth, use K&H Primer Filler and Spray Putty otherwise spray the area with K&H Primer.

Like the paint, primer comes in an aerosol can with a small ball bearing inside. Shake the can until the you hear the ball moving around quickly and then keep shaking for a further 60 seconds to ensure an even mix.

Hold the can 30 centremetres from the surface and spray in one continuous motion from the edge of the masking paper to the other edge and repeat below making sure to overlap by five to 10 centremetres each time.

Apply four light coats to prevent the primer from running and allow each coat to dry for five minutes. When this is done, sand the surface with 400-800 grit dry or wet sanding blocks until smooth and clean the surface again with wax and grease remover.

Now the panel is ready for painting which is similar to priming.

Shake the can until the ball moves freely inside and keep shaking for another 60 seconds. Not only does this mix the paint properly, but it also stops the nozzle from clogging and provides better coverage.

Again, spray the area standing 30 centremetres from the surface and hold the can upright to prevent clogging. Spray in the same way as priming, keeping coats light, overlapping and applying in a continuous horizontal motion.

Depending on the type of paint, you may need to wait between five minutes to an hour between coats.

When finished, turn the can upside down and spray briefly to stop paint from drying in the nozzle. Allow the final coat to cure for eight hours before waxing and polishing. 

  
    Example of types of paint      
 
VHT Engine Enamels Vinyl Paints Caliper Paints
x`
Wheel Paints Xceed Quick Dry Enamels VHT Flame
Proof Paints
 
           
  Learn to your apply touchup paint to your car. Do you have paint that is chipped on your car from shopping carts and doors hitting the paint? Is your car rusted?  
 
Mechanically sound cars are often junked because their bodies have rusted out. To prevent rust, wash the car often, wax it at least twice a year, and repair all chips, scratches and dents before rust sets in.

 

Two types of paint can be used on cars, lacquer and enamel. They cannot be mixed or the paint will crinkle. General Motors cars are usually finished with lacquer, most others are finished in enamel. Touchup paints are sold in aerosol cans marked with the carmaker's color code number. These numbers are found on a plate mounted under the hood or on the door post of your car. If the paint on your car is an enamel, use enamel primer; if it is lacquer, use a lacquer primer.

Before sanding and painting, clean the area with a commercial wax remover or rubbing alcohol. Always use wet or dry type sandpaper and keep it thoroughly soaked with water. Use small pieces and plunge them into a bucket frequently. They cannot be too wet. Minor paint stains and imperfections can be buffed out with a polishing compound, a white abrasive paste. This may dull the surface, but waxing will restore the shine. Orange-colored rubbing compound should be used only on pre-1964 cars. Follow instructions on fillers and paints. Do not wax new paint for two to three weeks.

Note: Regularly hose mud, snow, and salt build-up

from wheel wells and underbody of your car.

 

Procedure:

Scrape away loose paint particles with a penknife.

If you cannot scrape away at pieces of rust, you must sand them off. Spray some aerosol touchup paint into a paper cup. Dip an artist's paintbrush into the paint and dab it onto the surface. Let the paint flow from the loaded brush into the chip.

 

Remove all of the rust and feather the edges of surrounding paint with very fine wet or dry sandpaper. Keep paper and repair area soaked with water. Cover adjoining panels with masking tape and several layers of newspaper. Cover chrome trim with masking tape. Use top of a pen to press tape down firmly. If a scratch is small, cut a hole to shape of damaged area in a piece if shirt cardboard. Hold cardboard an inch from the car and spray the primer through the hole. Let primer dry for 30 minutes, then sand smooth with sandpaper soaked in water. Clean area with rubbing alcohol. Apply color coat in same manner as primer.

Do not try to cover large areas with one heavy coat, or the paint will run. Use several quick, light coats. Let paint dry for three days, then rub with polishing compound.

For minor dents, pound out with your fist or use a plunger, press it against the body of the car and sharply pull it out. If this fails, drill a series of holes in the dent and insert sheet metal screws. Pull the dent out with a claw hammer, using slow, steady pressure against a hardwood block. Remove the screws and sand with a # 40 sandpaper. Fill in the low areas with auto body filler, let it cure, and sand with a #80 sandpaper. Then you can proceed in touching up the car with the paint, as instructed above.

 

  
     

 

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