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Grading
Grading Hints
Doctored Currency - What to Look for.
Slabbing Currency (Professional Grading Services) - Useful or Silly?
Inventory
Ordering
Profile
Shows Attending
Contact Information

Grading

GRADING GUIDE 

Uncirculated - No folds or wear. Notes should not have rounded corners. Pinholes will only rarely appear on uncirculated notes.

About Uncirculated - Looks uncirculated at first glance. Only minimal corner wear.

Extremely Fine - Some folds(2-3) are evident, but very light. Paper is still crisp, without any limp folds. Could have a number of teller smudges.

Very Fine - Some folds are clearly evident, may have a # of light folds or several heavier ones. Paper design is not broken at fold lines. Paper will probably be no longer be bright white. May well be slightly dirty.

Fine - Paper design will be broken, and note will be limp, at major fold points - typically in the center vertically and maybe horizontally as well. Still will have crispness in note in non-folded regions. The vast majority (greater than 99%) of notes in this grade will be dirty and no longer white.

Very Good - A very wide grade. Can still have a little crispness in regions between folds (designated VG+), to totally limp and filthy (designated VG-). Will not be frayed around edges. Paper design will be broken at fold lines. Typically the lowest collector grade, except for rarities.

Good - Totally limp with severe fraying and rips. May have small pieces missing.

Fair - Severe fraying with pieces missing. Typically only collected as a filler or if extremely rare.

Grading Hints

1 - As most notes do not fit into nice categories, split grading is done, such as VG-F where there is still some crispness, and folds will not be quite as heavy as a VG+.

2 - Visual grading will only yield approximate results, touch is the only sure way, as a good technician can enhance the looks of a note by washing and pressing it. If you can not touch the note, for one reason or another, hold it up to strongly light & look for brown fold lines.

3 - As nationals were printed wet, there will be a waviness in the paper in Unc & AU unpressed notes.

Doctored Notes - What to Look for

1 - BEWARE OF BLEACHED NOTES. Like cleaned coins, bleaching a note will destroy some or most of its value. The note will appear much too clean and bright for the grade. Novices will quite often mistake a lower grade bleached note for a much higher grade. Ways to tell a bleached note:

a) Note will appear much too white for even a Unc. note. Please remember that these notes are at least 60 years old, and that even good quality paper (linen) ages.

b) May have a Clorox smell when in its holder.

c) On lower grade notes (Fine-Very Fine and less), the major folds lines will be white and not dirty. This is the easiest method to determine poorly cleaned notes.

d) On low grade notes, very small pieces of the bank title printing may be gone at the fold lines and white space will show at these points.

e) The bank title printing may be slightly blurry.

f ) Fine and lower notes will almost always be dirty. Often F-VF notes will also be somewhat dirty.

g) Note will appear too flat. Will not have normal printing waviness (in high grade) and wear marks and folds in lower grade.

h) In high grade notes, there will be too many teller handling marks.

i ) Quite often the color on the back of the note will be somewhat too light.

2 - BEWARE OF REDRAWN SIGNATURES ON LARGE NATIONALS. - A number of large notes have lost their signatures due to the fading of the ink, sunlight, or bleach. Occasionally someone tries to re-sign the note, most of the time it is noticeable because of one or more of the following:

a) Ball point and felt tip pens did not exist at the time; nor did fountain pens (I believe they were not invented until the 1930's). All signatures were made with ink well and metal quill type pens (or signature stamps on some third charters).  Real signatures or stamps will vary in line thickness and boldness.

b) Signatures are strong throughout the signature even at fold lines. Obviously if the signatures were original, they should also be worn at this point.

c) Dirt or stains may appear beneath the signature.

3 - BEWARE OF PRESSED NOTES - A majority of large notes, and some small ones, have been pressed or otherwise helped by working on them.  A person can tell this by putting them up a strong light and look for brown lines.  These brown lines are where the note's fibers have been damaged by normal folding wear.  These lines will always be present except for the lightest folds.  Another way of telling, but takes some amount of practice, is to feel the note for limpness.  At any fold, the note will bend too easily (will not be crisp).  This method should only be used after you have asked permission of the owner and you are planning to buy the note if it passes the test. 

Slabbing Currency (Professional Grading Services) - Useful or Silly?

Like most things, the short answer is, it depends. To do a good analysis of this, it is useful to examine the pros and cons of professional coin grading, as there is now a good history. The primary reasons for slabbing coins, in my opinion, are the following:

1) Determination of authenticity, this includes both non-mint products and alterations.

2) Definitive grading of the coin.

3) Determination of damaged, cleaned, and recolorized coins.

4) The ability to buy coins for investment - including buying coins sight unseen and by people unknowledgeable in the hobby.

The Pros

The first reason, in my opinion, is very important for most people, due to the large number of counterfeits and altered coins. I have personally seen a number of phony small denomination gold coins, 1916-D, 1909-SVDB, etc.; and I would not buy any of these if they were not slabbed. The grading of coin is also useful to resolve disputes. I, however, believe that the grading system might have gotten too fine (particularly the MS60-MS70 range) for consistency, as I see a number of people breaking out slabbed coins and resubmitting them, hoping for an extra point. In my opinion, the third reason is not very important, as most knowledgeable people can determine these problems on their own.

The Cons

The fourth point, in my opinion, was one of the biggest reason for the decline of the hobby. It allowed investors, particularly non-collectors, to treat the rare and/or high grade coins as a commodity. This priced collectors out of the market, and turned them off to the hobby. In addition, slabs can not easily be made into an album, i.e. there was no longer any holes to fill. The leading authority, Q. David Bowers, mentioned this in an article as one of the major causes for the hobby’s decline. I have also been told, by several dealers and collectors, all more knowledgeable than I, that certain coins, particular copper ones, will deteriorate in the holders, due to the trapped water vapor.

Let’s now take this example and apply it to professional paper money grading. The first reason is a non-starter, as currency is almost impossible to counterfeit successfully (except by certain foreign governments, who are only concerned with present day money).  Also the Fed’s take a rather dim view of counterfeiting. Grading is still important, and enhancing notes (cleaning) is also a problem, but, less so, as currency is much easier damaged if it has been cleaned and thus obvious. In addition, removing anything but the lightest folds, will still leave a brown line visible under a bright light, where the fibers have been damaged (see article on Doctored Currency - What to Look for). The same cons also apply, investors are starting to ruin this hobby. Slabbing currency, according to several P.C.D.A. dealers, does not allow the paper to "breathe" enough and are thus damaging to the notes over the long run. My gut feeling, as a Ph.D. chemist, is that I concur with their opinions.

So there you have it. If you have a dispute on a note, as a buyer or seller or you plan to dispose of items in the near future, it might be useful to have the currency professionally graded; otherwise not.

Inventory 

(Click on Picture to View Inventory)

Pa Nationals

Other Nationals

Errors

Pa Obsoletes

Other Obsoletes

Confederates

Large Notes

Small Notes

Miscellaneous

 

Ordering

I prefer to deal with people face to face, so if possible, see me at one of the shows I will be attending.  If there is anything in this inventory that you would like to look at or purchase, please contact me prior to the show date, as I do not always bring everything with me.  If you can not attend the next show, please email, mail, or call using the contact information below.  PA Residents please include 6% sales tax.  Include postage and insurance based on the following schedule:  

  $1 to $100  include $2 
$101 to $150 include $3
$151 to $200 include $4
$201 to $250 include $5
$251 to $300 include $6
over $300     include $7

All orders over $1000 receive a 5% discount.

Profile

American Numismatic Association Life Member 773

Society of Paper Money Collectors Life Member 116

Pennsylvania Association of Numismatics

South Hills Coin Club President 1999-2000

South Hills Coin Club Vice-President 1997-1998

Shows Attending

I will be setting up at the following shows:

Sept. 15 & 16, 2001 Indiana Coin Club - Best Western

October 26 & 27(Fri & Sat), 2001 PAN - Monroeville Expo Mart

Dec 2001 Meadville Coin Club Show - Days Inn

Jan 2002 West Penn Coin Club - Cheswick - Harmer House

Feb. 9 & 10, 2001 South Hills Coin Club - Holiday Inn - Pittsburgh South

Contact Information

Telephone
724-779-6343
FAX
724-779-6343
Postal address
PO Box 1451 Cranberry Twp, PA 16066-0451
Electronic mail
[email protected]
 

 

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Last modified: July 02, 2001
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