Cambodia

NOTE: This travel report is based on my travels in late October, early November, 2003. U$ dollars and riels are used interchangeably. Most people use U$ dollars for large purchases, and you will be given riels back in change, which you can then use for small items. You can change travelers checks in the larger cities, but there are NO debit card ATMs. The exchange rate was 1 U$=4,000 riels.

• Stung Treng. I only stayed 1 night here and in the morning caught the 5+ hour truck ride to Ban Lung, Rattanakiri. I recommend paying the extra few riels and sitting inside the cab, but others liked to be in the back where admittedly the views are better - you can see each and every pothole right before you hit it!!

• Ban Lung. This tiny town in Rattanakiri Province is the real deal, the real Cambodia. During the dry season the red dirt streets quickly coat your clothes and skin and it is easy to get around in a bicycle or motorcycle. There are only a few guest houses and a handful of tourists, so the town is still very much for the locals, who at this time remain very friendly. Sit at the "bakery" across from the market and sip a delicious cup of strong coffee and eat pastry. People in outlying villages are often quite shy, however, so don't expect a warm welcome everywhere you may wander, and most are reluctant to have their pictures taken. When a local guide was showing me around, however, we stopped in on one of his farming relatives and we shared lunch. Malaria is reportedly prevalent in the outlying villages, so take necessary precautions. Boeng Yaek Lom (spellings vary) is a beautiful volcanic lake with delightfully clear and warm water. Local young guides will take you around nearby villages and farms. There's organized treks to Virachey National Park or you can rent motorbikes and do day trips on your own. For the best food in town at very reasonable prices be sure and visit the American Restaurant (no, it's not owned by an American nor has anything to do with America). Ban Lung is a 5-8 hour (depending if it's the dry or wet season) potholed truck ride from Stung Treng, or you can fly U$55 one-way from Phnom Penh. They are in the process of surveying the road from Stung Treng to Ban Lung for sealing/paving, and when they do, no doubt tourism will increase dramatically.

• Phnom Penh. A poor man's Bangkok, either you'll love or hate Phnom Penh. The large streets are clogged with noisy motorbikes and cars. Side streets are dirt, rocky, potholed messes. Visit the usual tourist places during the day and the many bars at night. It's a big, crowded, Asian city that's hot and humid 24-hous a day, year round. A good place to get visas and domestic air tickets. Phnom Penh was not my favorite place - do the tourist stuff and get out.

• Kampot. I wasn't overy impressed with Kampot. Bokor Hill, the abandoned French colonial hill station, is the main attraction. Unfortunately, the road up there is a rocky, bone-jarring 2+ hours ride, which means you spend some 5 hours bouncing around in a pickup truck for 1/2 an hour of sightseeing. Hmmm? The old casino/hotel is quite surreal and atmospheric, but if Cambodia is serious about tourism then they've got to take the responsibility to PAVE THEIR ROADS. My suggestion would be to skip Kampot and do Bokor as a day trip from Sihanoukville.

• Sihanoukville. Though the city itself is nothing special, Snooky is a pleasant, rich, pricey, seaside resort town. Beaches are lined with umbrellas and chairs and for the price of a soda you can sit for hours and swim and enjoy the warm, clear seas. You can also do boat trips to nearby islands for sunbathing and snorkeling. A great place to relax and a good end to one's stay in Cambodia. Take the U$12 fast boat to Koh Kong and exit into Thailand.

Comments? E-mail me at [email protected].

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