Important Safety Notice
To all owners of Robin Hood’s with wishbone front suspension with screw-in lower ball joints.

We are constantly getting feedback from customers which we appreciate and is important to us. We have recently had some disturbing news from a customer that the nylon lock nut on his bottom ball joint had come undone after only 102 miles since the vehicle was SVA tested (which we cannot give an explanation for). Also there is a suggestion that the bottom ball joint could unscrew itself. As it is better to be safe than sorry, we are suggesting that you drill a 1/16” hole either through the amount of thread above the nylon lock nuts or through the body of the nylon lock nut and the pin itself and put a small split pin through it, on both the left and right hand side of the car (a pop rivet shank from a 3mm pop rivet, a panel pin or a piece of copper wire from 2.5 single strand three core cable could be used temporarily instead of a pin). On the bottom ball joint, you will see there are four key slots in the circumference, place your drill in one of these slots, drill a 3mm hole into the lower plate of the wish bone and insert a 3mm split pin. We have heat shrunk these ball joints in and usually when trying to remove them the thread picks up. When assembling the stub axle to the ball joint, ensure there is no swarf, rust or paint on any of the surfaces, that you have not trapped the rubber gaiter in the hole or there is not any damage or wear to the hole, in it’s previous life it’s owner may have heated it to replace the track control arm, it could have had up to five new ones. With a jack on the bottom wishbone, jack the car up so that the tapered pin goes in to the stub axle hole fully. Tighten up the lock nut, recheck this after about 20 miles and again periodically. To conclude, because of the short amount of time between the SVA test and the reported nylon nut allegedly unscrewing itself, it appears that it is not sufficient to just visibly examine these components periodically and it is essential that the above work advised by us is~ carried out. We are still investigating this situation and will report further to you if a better solution to this problem is available.

Also please check your chassis for any tubes in which water could accumulate, these are tubes which may appear to be totally sealed at both ends, water could percolate through a small upper chassis weld and be trapped in a lower section. Drill 3/16” holes in these tubes and periodically poke with a match stick to ensure that they are not holding water.

Whilst not a requirement of the SVA test (we think it should be) the exhaust pipe/manifold that protrudes from the body gets very hot and we feel that some kind of cover should be put over it to protect people and animals.

We have had some worrying news from two people who have stored their sidescreens under their beds for a long time (18 months), they report that the sidescreens have taken on an affect like water droplets have been placed on them, this appears to be where the two clear plastic surfaces have touched, we would therefore advise you to separate your sidescreens totally when in storage.

Remember your GRP will fade whilst it is exposed directly to sunlight.

We hope you are progressing well with your build or enjoying your finished car, please remember that the technical help line is available to all owners of Robin Hood cars there is no charge for this support. If you have any queries on these or any other matters please call the technical line on 07976 640841.

If you have sold the car, please pass this letter onto the new owner or inform us how we can contact them.

Be a Robin Hood detective, when at shows or at a social Robin Hood gathering look out for people who have not adhered to our instructions, you tell em’

Robin Hood Sports Cars Ltd, 7 Oxclose Lane,