Day 1, September 14th 2002, Eindhoven (NL)- Zürich (CH) - Fiesch (CH), 1100km (1770mi)
Fahren fahren auf der Autobahn... We left at 4:05am and arrived at 11:45am at Mark's place in Zürich. It was a bit cold on the way, but no really eventful things happened. We got a lovely breakfast at Mark's and left at 1:00pm. Via the Albis (793m), Sihlbrugg, Ägerisee, Sattel, Schwyz, Brunnen, Altdorf, Gurtnellen (see Destination Spass 1 for an extensive report). Due to the "Saturday afternoon traffic", we weren't able to really ride like the way we wanted to, until we came to Wassen. We turned right and headed for the Sustenpass. Yay! Not too much traffic, except for that Porsche, stuck behind a van. At the top of the Sustenpass (2224m, 7297ft) we stopped to pick up Leon's bankcard from the ground (?) and descended the westside. Leon made a few sparks with his centerstand in a tightening curve. Whoops! A quick reminder of the importance of Slow, Look, Lean, and ROLL on the gas...Up to the Grimselpass (2165m, 7103ft), where Mark got stuck behind some cars, but still managed to get to the top at the same time as Leon and Jackie. There was a cold wind on top of the pass, and we ordered three hot cocoa (or actually, three hot Ovomaltine, the difference of which only the Swiss can explain). Headed down again, we were rewarded with a perfect view of the road up to the Furkapass. We were able to resist the temptation and headed South-West, in the direction of Wallis (the Valley), as we had agreed upon. We wanted to stay at the hotel in Fieschertal where we had stayed at DS1. Unfortunately, it was fully booked, so we chose Hotel Schmitta in Fiesch itself. Had a nice dinner and went to bed early. Leon and Jackie are so tired that Mark has to write the story, and they are having trouble with the idea that they have to get up at 8:00! (gna gna, evil grin).
Our shower gets a 7 out of 10, because of the lack of a shower curtain and shower handle hook.
Day 2, September 15th 2002, Fiesch - Tiefencastel, 290km (180mi)
Darn, it's already 8:00!! Mark talked us into getting up this early (last time that happened!). Took a shower (still a 7), had breakfast and we left three traditional gifts for the maid. We hope she appreciated it.We started rolling at 10. It was quite cold when we started, due to the altitude, shadow from the mountains (we're in the Valley, remember?) and the fact that Fall is already knocking at Switzerland's door. We detoured to get some gas, which appeared unnecessary later. Jackie took over from Leon here to twist up the Simplon pass (2006m, 6581ft). She scratched Magnet's centerstand in the second hairpin! The rest of the pass was fun. The view at the Simplonpass was really beautiful, and a lot better that last time (DS1, motorcycles in the mist). We took some funny pictures and we enjoyed a pee-with-a-view (Mark and I did...). Gee, I wish I had a view like that from my bathroom at home..
Jackie and Leon going for a jump.
Jackie and Leon, Simplon pass
Uhm...Mark, what are you doing?
Leon took over from Jackie again, because he coulnd't stand sitting on the passenger seat (and not riding himself). We had a steep way down, a border-crossing and narrow roads. Add some crazy bikers who overtook us in blind corners, and we knew we were in Italy.
We had pizza, ice-cream and some artsy fartsy in Bellinzona (in the Canton of Ticino, Switzerland again). Magnet got some looks from an old blonde woman. She probably had more miles on her than Magnet ;). We hopped on the highway, but made sure to take the exit at Pian San Giacomo. We truely enjoyed that really wonderful road up the Passo San Bernardino (2066m, 6778ft). It is much more fun doing that pass in this direction (South to North) than the other way around (according to Mark). We found a hotel in Tiefencastel (named Albula & Julier, which are two nice passes in the area). Our "Hotelführer für Motorradfahrer" simply rules.
Hotelführer für Motorradfahrer (Österreich, Schweiz, Südtirol, Oberitalien), ISBN 3-932462-15-7
by Alexander Obermair
Dicom GmhH
Haindlfingerstr. 20
D-85406 Palzing/Zolling
Tel. +49-8167-696370
Fax. +49-8167-696372
www.motorradfreizeit.de
Hotel view at Tiefencastel.
After dinner, we "gassed" our way up from the hotel and came to a church with a small but neat cemetary. Leon's smelly gasses can truly wake up the dead...(just kiddin'). After a few beers and a chat in the bar, we called it a day and hit our pillows. The bikes are safe in the garage, next to a weird green colored RT from Germany.
Mark's shower gets a 4! Ask him why and take cover. Jackie's and Leon's shower sucks (literally). It gets an 8.
Mark hit a bird today. He scored! Mark-Bird 1-0. No damage done though (to his bike, we don't know about the bird.. it was gone real quick)
Day 3 September 16th 2002, Tiefencastel - Nauders (A), 213km (132mi)
Started rolling at 10. Direction Julierpass, but before that, an old grey bearded geezer on a Harley warned us for snow. Liar! Leon said he liked the the Harley. Liar!! Quickly arrived at the Julier, and down towards into Oberengadin and the Silvaplanersee for a photo shoot.
Jackie and Leon at the Julierpass.
Magnet at the Silvaplanersee.
Proud Mark at the Silvaplanersee.
Zoeki at the Silvaplanersee.
We convinced Leon to let Jackie ride Magnet alone up the Berninapass. That went quickly and painlessly. It was Leon's first time on a Suzuki Bandit 600 and all he does is watch his graphite metallic baby in the rear view mirrors. Tsk tsk :). After a drink at the Ospizio Bernina and some more appreciating looks at Magnet from older women, we hit the road again and turned left, towards the Focola di Livigno. Fun roads. Passo d'Eira, perfect weather, Passo di Foscagno, perfect asphalt.
Jackie's European Toilet Adventure: She entered the restaurant. "Show me your best toilet", she said. The best toilet appeared to be stolen because there was only a hole in the ground. "Damn toilet thieves!", she thought. Then the bar owner showed her the way to the ladies toilet, which was still there. The faucets above the sinks in the washroom were operated with pedals. In order to find out which pedal is for the sink you want to use, you can conventiently put your coat the other sink and press the wrong pedal. Down to Bormio and North, direction Stelvio. Wonderful curves. After taking a few pictures halfway, Mark's Zoeki mated with another Suzuki Bandit 600. (The naked version, go figure). He was going backwards and never felt his luggage case touch the soft luggage bags of the other Bandit. Damage: 1 bent brake lever and handlebars for Fahrzeug B. A damage form was filled in calmly and 45 minutes later we were heading up the Stelvio. There were some cows walking around loose and we had to take case not to hit any of them or the smelly crap they left behind. Leon wanted to slap a cow on the butt while riding, but failed to do so. On top of the Passo dello Stelvio, we took some time to relax and reflect Mark's minor stupidity while enjoying a Bratwurst mit Sauerkraut. It was photo time after a Kraut finally stepped out of the way. The last time we took a picture here (DS2, mid October 2001) the weather was completely different. Back then, we were one of the few riders who enjoyed a cold, misty and snowy ride up the east slope. Also, someone removed the "I like Dick" sticker from the pass sign.
View of the east side of the Stelvio..
Jackie and Leon at the pass sign.
Mark and Leon at the pass sign. The last time they were here, the snow was piled up behind them.
Our plan was to get to Nauders in Austria by 6pm or so and we wanted to take a look at the monastery Müstair, so we turned around and headed down towards the Umbrail pass. Bumpy road: slow, quiet and beautiful. The monastery seemed to be popular with more bikers. The frescos were nice, but we found it slightly disappointing. On our way to Nauders we stopped at the famous church tower sticking out of the Reschensee.
Jackie and Leon at the Reschensee.
We found a place to stay at Hotel Erika. For a shower rating, see our DS3 trip report.
Passes we did today:
- Julierpass 2284m, 7493ft
- Berninapass 2330m, 7644ft
- Forcola di Livigno 2315m, 7595ft
- Passo d'Eira 2210m, 7251ft
- Passo di Foscagno 2291m, 7615ft
- Passo dello Stelvio 2758m, 9049ft
- Umbrailpass 2503m, 8212ft
- Reschenpass 1507m, 4944ft
Hotel view at Nauders Castle.
Day 4 September 17th 2002, Nauders (A) - St. Märgen (D), 410km (255mi)
A quick dash into Switzerland across the Norberthöhe with a nice view on top of the Flüelapass (2383m, 7818ft). Followed by a successful stamp hunt in the tiny country of Liechtenstein. The first post office employee we asked, referred to their capital Vaduz as "the next village". We gassed up and headed for the highway to the Rheinfall. This is the biggest waterfall in Europe (measured by volume). It is quite impressive. In the parking lot, we saw a Triumph Daytona that had never done a lean angle despite of its worn out tires (the middle part of them, at least). Jackie wanted to tell the owner that he had payed for the whole tire and that it would be prefectly OK to use the edges as well.. Oh well, we continued and crossed the border with Germany. We enjoyed some more wide curves and finished in St. Märgen in the Black Forest.We had dinner with Mark and waved him goodbye. Thanks Mark! After dinner, we admired the beautiful church in St. Märgen.
From this moment on, Jackie and Leon were on their own again, and that's where this report ends Total for Destination Spass 6: 2800km (1740mi)
(c) 2002, Leon Brunken (leonb(at)steeg.nl.eu.org) and Mark Verhappen (m.verhappen(at)tue.nl)
(Edited in joe)
