Fried Noodles

Serves 4 - Origin: Chinese

By the end of the Han dynasty (202 BC-AD 220), noodles were standard fare and enjoyed in various forms by rich and poor alike. It is recorded that even the emperor ate boiled noodles. By the eighteenth century, however, Chinese culinary attitudes had changed. Poets and philosophers alike extolled the virtues of fine cooking as distinct from eating for survival.

The technique of boiling then frying noodles marks this as an original Cantonese dish. The variety of ingredients, offering interesting flavors and textures, is a reflection of the culinary directions of the eighteenth century.

 

1/2 lb (250 g) fresh egg noodles, thin variety (about 1/8 inch/3 mm thick) (available at Chinese stores)
1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) groundnut peanut oil
2 tablespoons groundnut peanut oil
1/4 lb (125 g) Chinese barbecued pork (char sieu) (available at Chinese stores), cut into 1/4-inch (5-mm) thick julienne
3 scallions (spring onions), mainly the white part, sliced into 2-inch (5-cm) long shreds
1/2 cup (2 oz/60 g) snow peas (mangetout), topped, tailed and cut into julienne
1 tablespoon wood ear fungus (wun yee) (available at Chinese stores), soaked for 30 minutes in warm water, rinsed and drained
1 cup (2 oz/60 g) celery julienne
1 cup (3 oz/90 g) bean sprouts
1/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) water

For the seasonings:
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon oyster sauce (available at Chinese stores)
2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine (available at Chinese stores) or dry sherry
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon cornstarch (cornflour), mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water

Drop the noodles into boiling water, loosen the strands with chopsticks, and when the water comes to a boil again, drain immediately. Rinse well under cold water and drain thoroughly. Spread the noodles on a tray to allow them to dry for at least 20 minutes. Lift them and gently shake to loosen and allow to dry more evenly. Arrange the noodles on a dinner plate and shape into a loose mound.

Heat the 1/2 cup oil in a wok until just beginning to smoke. Slide the noodle mound into the oil, and fry for 1-2 minutes, or until the base of the noodles is crisping and turning golden brown. Flip over to the other side and fry. Remove and drain on paper towels. (The outside noodles are crisped and lightly browned, but the inside should still be soft and tender.) Keep warm in a low oven (210 degrees F/100 degrees C/Gas 1/4) with the door open.

Meanwhile, heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a wok. Stir-fry the Chinese barbecued pork and the scallions for 1 minute. Add the snow peas, wood ear fungus, celery, and bean sprouts and toss together over moderate heat for 1 minute. Sprinkle the water down the side of the wok, cover the wok with the lid and cook for about 30 seconds. Add all of the seasonings ingredients, stirring immediately until the sauce is lightly velvety.

Arrange the fried noodles on a serving plate, place the Chinese barbecued pork and vegetables over the top of the noodles and serve.