The formal garment of both the republic and the empire was the toga. More information on Roman garments may be found here. Another good site on Roman clothing is here. Like most things roman, the toga's form changed considerably during the extent of the roman period. Here are three of its forms (these are taken from "The Roman Toga" by Lillian Wilson):
First of all, start with the correct material. The best choice is a light weight wool flannel. Do not use coat wool. In Wilson's words, the material should "have a moderate nap, so that the folds will tend to cling together". In Wilson's toga patterns the basic unit is defined as height of the wearer taken from the base of the neck to the floor, with shoes on. Girth is defined as the circumference of the waist. For each of these toga types the required dimensions are:
Arringatorre
AB Girth + 2 units
Aa and Bb 1/3 unit
CD 1 unit
cd 1 1/8 units
Large Republican
AB Girth + 2 2/7 units
Aa and Bb 1/2 units
EF 1 1/8 units
CD 1 4/14 units
BO and AM 1/7 units
cd 1 1/2 units
Ara Pacis
AB Girth + 2 1/3 units
Aa and Bb 1/8 unit
EF 1 2/7 units
CD 1 1/4 units
cd 1 13/18 units
cQ 2/3 units
dQ 1 1/18 units
The pattern and dimensions for the later Imperial Toga may be found here.
The full appendix to Lillian Wilson's book may be found here. Pictures of her toga reconstructions are also here.
Folding the Toga
I have the large Republican toga (see below). After quite a bit of effort I can sometimes manage to put it on by myself. The presence of a serva makes the job signifcantly easier. Here is one site that explains the process. The process begins by drapping the toga over the left arm. You then bring the material around your back and under the right shoulder, drapping the end over your left shoulder. The trick is getting the right amount of material drapped over your left arm. I never seem to get it right the first time. Take note that no pins are used.
