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Care Sheet |
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Back Home |
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The information on this page is from my own experience and that is ever growing but still fairly limited, i will include any problems i have come across and how i over came them. |
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Leopard Gecko : Eublepharis Macularius |
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This species of gecko is extremely easy to care for if the time an money is there. Even so take in to mind that you will need a constant supply of food and must be willing to learn, to give your lizard the best life possible, keeps your eyes open for any changes because the quicker you realise the faster you can put things right. |
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Leopard Gecko.
Long lived 15-20 years if well looked after
Temperature range 88c in the day and 78 at night
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Lecture over now.. first find a place that sells them, from reputable a pet store or dealer the prices may be steep but often the animals are given the specialist care they need for a normal phase gecko �40-�50 is not uncommon rare morphs and traits will cost more but if your intentions are breeding then these are for you. If you desire a pet at a cheaper price surf the internet or check in the reptile magazine for a private breeder where prices are often fairer. |
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Housing : housing setup for Leopard geckos ranges from very basic to as tastefully crafted as you like. i prefer the use of wooden vivariums they are easily acsessed and linked up to electricity but cost more than a plastic box or glass aquarium. 2 leopard geckos will live happily in a 2x1 foot vivarium and due to leopard geckos being terestrial length is more important than height. Because reptiles need heat to live properly a heat mat is essential this goes ever underneath the substrate if in a wooden viv or beneath the glass or plastic if otherwise. This will supply the lizard with a constant supply of heat and it can be regulated with the use of a thermostat Habistat are a favoured brand for both mats and thermostats. The mat plugs into the thermostat and then you set the desired heat PLEASE get a thermostat dont let your lizards burn because you didnt have enough money, they are essential. I also use a bulb in the viv not so much for heat but to give the lizards a sense of day and night this i have on a timer, not because im lazy but so it is a regular time.
Substrates can be of almost anything non toxic, favoured ones are paper towels, sand (not to course to avoid impaction) wood chippings are what i use with my adults.
Leopard geckos are nocturnal and will require a hide at the cool end and a moist hide on the heat matt.This moist hide is a humidity chamber and can be made from a plastic tupperware box (sandwich container) half filled with damp vermiculite, moss or damp paper towel. The final part of their housing is a water bowel and thats it.So..
Vivarium 2x1 foot for 2 (�50)
Heat mat (to cover 1 3rd of the viv) (�15)
Thermostat (linked to the heat mat) (20)
Bulb (at the same end as the mat) (and fittings �10)
Two hides (moist one at the warm end) (�3)
Water bowel (�1) |
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Feeding: Food is very important to leopard geckos and the better you look after and feed your food source the healthier your reptile will be. Leopard geckos can be maintained on crickets for their whole life, these crickets must be gut loaded by providing them with food and then dusted with Vitamin supplements to ensure your lizard is given everything its body needs.Others types of food are mealworms Waxworms and locusts these can be ordered online for a good rate or collected from your local reptile store. Ensure your reptile has clean water at all times a change every other day is necessary to remove chances of bacterial build up. A well fed and supplemented leopard gecko should be a prosperous one, it is easier to prevent disease than it is to stop it once it has occured. So by maintaing a healthy food source illness should be unheard off (fingers crossed). |
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