Rigid Heddle Weaving

Terms:
1. Warp threads: the long threads that go from start to end of your weaving.
2. Weft threads: the continuous thread that goes from right to left.
3. Shuttle: object that holds the weft thread, usually wood.
4. Beater: object used to pack down the weaving between each pass, can be combined with the shuttle.
5. Shed: the space between the upper and lower threads where you pass the shuttle through.
6. Pick: one pass of the shuttle.
7. Closed/Heddled threads: the threads that go through the holes in the heddle, stationary threads.
8. Open threads: the threads that go through the slots in the heddle, movable threads.

A word (or two) on yarn.
You can weave with just about any kind of yarn you desire. However, the period yarns were made from wool, linen, or silk. To make your weaving easier, the following guidelines should be followed.
1. Use a yarn with only one ply. Multiple ply yarns tend to untwist during weaving.
2. Use a yarn that isn�t �fuzzy�. The fuzz will snag on itself during weaving and get pulled out, weakening the yarn.
3. Remember cost vs. appearance. Cotton is cheaper, but silk feels nicer. However silk trim on a field dress isn�t very practical. Also large or long projects tend to become cost prohibitive using silk or linen.
4. Can you buy enough of the yarn at one time to complete your project? Black yarn from two different companies never looks the same.

How to weave Graph your pattern using honeycomb grid paper for a better visualization of the finished design. Inkle and rigid heddle weaving is made up of two rows of weaving that repeats itself over and over, one row represents the heddled threads and the other represents the open threads. It makes for a better-looking project if you start and finish with a closed or heddled thread. Other than that, graph whatever makes you happy.

Now for the grunt work, warping your loom. Figure 1 shows an example of a rigid heddle.

Start with the first heddled thread on the pattern. You can either do all the heddled first, then the open or do exactly as the pattern is, heddled then open, then heddled, then open, etc. When you�re finished, take the ends from one side of the heddle and tie them together in a big knot. Then tie all the other ends together. Fasten your belt around your waist, then tie the thick cords to the ends of the warp threads and tie them between the belt you�re wearing and the solid object in front of you. Make sure your beater and shuttle are close at hand before you tie yourself down.

To start weaving, first push the heddle down, and then insert the beater in the shed. Pull the beater down as far as possible, then push it back up near the heddle. Pass the shuttle from one side to the other leaving about a 2-inch tail hanging out. Snug the weft thread down as far as possible. Lift the heddle up and beat the shed to snug down the weaving. Now pass the shuttle back the opposite way and pass the tail from the opposite direction to anchor the start. Snug down the weft down. Pass the tail on the next pick, and from there, just continue to weave until you�re finished. As the weaving advances, retie the end tied to you so it�s closer, eventually you�ll have to loop the weaving around the belt you�re wearing.

Weave until you have about three rows worth left to weave. As you weave the next two rows, insert a sewing needle into the shed of each row after you�ve passed the shuttle. The needles must be facing the opposite direction of the way the weft went. Weave the last row and then cut the weft about a foot from the last row. Insert the weft into the furthest needle and then pull it back through the weaving. Then insert the weft through the closest needle to draw it back through the weaving to secure the end. Then finish by braiding or twisting or whatever you please to the warp threads.

RESOURCES
Earth Guild
33 Haywood St
Ashville, NC 28801
1-800-327-8448
http://www.earthguild.com/

Unicorn Books and Crafts
1338 Ross St
Petaluma, CA 94954
1-800-289-9276

Louet Sales
R.R. 4, Prescott
Ontario, K0E 1T0

Louet Sales
P.O. Box 267, Ogdensburg,
N.Y. USA 13669
Tel: 613-925-4502 Fax: 613-925-1405
email: [email protected]

DMC Threads
http://www.dmc-usa.com/

Mary Maxim
2001 Holland Ave
P.O. Box 5019
Port Huron, MI 48061-5019
1-800-962-9504
http://www.marymaxim.com

The Needler
102 East Main St
Lexington, SC 29072-3421
1-803-359-3858
http://www.theneedler.com/
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