April 17, 2005

G'Day Mates!

I just arrived in Adelaide last night, which is on the South Central Coast of Australia, and must admit that I felt very overwhelmed being in a big city once again. I was so used to being in the bush for about three weeks that I forgot what it was like to be back in normal civilization again. Having the day today to wander around here really made me realize how much I missed the city though. Although the natural beauty of the land has disappeared, everything I want or need is right at my finger tips.

Back in Alice Springs, I boarded a bus full of 19 people that was heading down to the Ayres Rock area for about three days. We stopped all along the way to see things such as singing dingoes (I am not even joking, there was a dingo that was brought into a bar on a leash and he jumped up on the piano and started howling to the tunes-absolutely ridiculous!).

At one point in our journey, our driver pulled over in the middle of nowehere and hopped out with his shovel. We had no idea what he was doing until he told us that he was digging up special tree roots. When he finally got the perfect one, he sliced the root away until the hollow center showed and revealed a big, fat, white witchetty grub. He pulled it out and it was the size and thickness of his pinky finger, maybe a little bigger. He held it up so we could take pictures and then he asked who wanted to eat it. I laughed and raised my hand but quickly regretted it and got scared the second he put the crawling creature in my hand. He got one out of the root for himself as well and he showed me how to eat it. He said, "You hold the grub by the head and then bite up until you reach your fingers. Chew that sucker up and throw the head on the ground when you're done." So there I was, feeling like I was a newly developed character in the Lion King, completing the trio with Timone and Pumba. I tipped my head back and followed his lead, but the entire body off below it's head, chewed the grub up, guts on my chin and all, and then swallowed and rubbed my belly. Mmmmmm, mmmm good! Surprisingly, it was not that bad. It tasted a bit warm and gushy at first but the flavor of the yellow part of a runny egg prevailed. I tried attaching the video of me eating it to this email, but I couldn't from some reason. So, instead I attached a picture of it, as well as a few other pictures that pertain to this email.

We did some really neat hiking along the way through places like Kings Canyon, which was packed with interesting wildlife. We also did a ton of hiking and walking around at Ayres Rock and Kata Tjuta which was amazing as well. I couldn't believe I was finally in the Red Center seeing things I have only dreamed of. One morning I decided to climb Ayres Rock which was VERY physically trying but well worth the effort. The views and the experience were ones not to forget. I have been getting some really nice pictures from these places and am excited to make up the perfect picture album CD when I get home. Especially with the pictures of me in my fly net that I wore over my head because those little flying mongrels are such pests! They could really drive you insane if you didn't have a net to keep them from flying into your ears, nose and eyes.

One afternoon on one of our hikes, we were coming back down the path from a long morning of walking. I was walking down some stairs on the pathway when I saw what I thought was a yellow extension cord. I thought to myself, "Hmmm, that's weird, why would there be an extension cord in the middle of the desert?" Then the extension cord started moving toward me and I again thought, "Wow, I didn't think extension cords could move on their own either!" This thought process and realization all happened in a matter of seconds when finally I snapped out of la la land and realized, "Oh my god it's a snake and I am about to step on it!!!" I quickly jumped back with a screech and the guide came running back to see what was the matter. He told me to step away and get out of it's path. He then proceeded to tell me that I had almost just stepped on and been bitten by the worlds most venomous snake, the Inland Taipan. He told me how lucky I was because if I had actually stepped on it I would have been carried back to the bus and taken to the hospital immediately. In the middle of nowhere? Ummm, yeah. Not much of a chance for survival there. I laid in my swag and sleeping bag in the open air that night looking at the clear southern, starry sky thinking to myself, "What a way to leave this world..." I gave many thanks that night and wondered what adventures tomorrow would bring.

Our group got cut in half after those three days and then a group of ten of us continued on down to Adelaide. We stopped in an aboriginal community and saw how these people live now that the Western world has taken over the land that is rightfully theirs, It was beyond devastating. It looked like a garbage dump and the people looked so sick and unhealthy. There was actually a guy walking around with a half cooked dog leg in his hand as he munched away at it every few minutes. I left there wondering how the western world could do this to them, how could we take their land and their ways away from them? All in all, it was a very sobering experience.

We stopped in a town called Coober Pedy, which hold 93% of the worlds opals. We pulled into an old mining area one afternoon to play around with some shovels and dig with our hands and I actually found a few really nice pieces. Maybe they will pay for this trip...ha! We also visited a lake called Cadibarrawirracanna (the longest named place in Australia) which is a huge salt lake. We got to taste a piece of the salt and it was VERY potent.

Finally, we arrived in Wilpena Pound where we proceeded to go on the most amazing hike. We climbed up a huge mountain and once we were at the top the views were stunning. It just happened to be my birthday that day and as I was up there I thought to myself, "This view, right here, right now, is a fabulous birthday present!" It was such a good day. When we returned to camp after our four hour hike, our driver told me that he had been in town all day looking for decorations or balloons for our camp that night and he couldn't find ANYTHING! He did, however, cook me an amazing dinner that consisted of a great salad, pesto and mushroom pasta and a cake for dessert, as well as marshmallows to roast over the fire. Everyone had gotten me little candies and pins of Australia and little bottles of alcohol as well. I even got a really nice back massage, which after sleeping in a sleeping bag for almost a month I desperately needed! It was such a nice way to celebrate and we all had a really nice night. I felt like a queen! I was worried that being away from home might be tough but they really all made it so special for me.

I fell asleep that night under the stars, once again and for the last time on this tour through the outback, and listened to my music as I realized that my trip up the West Coast and Down the Center were now over. Time seemed to be going so slowly, but all of a sudden I realized it was the middle of April. What happened to the beginning of April? I guess life out in the bush will do that to you after a while. I really lost track of time. I laid there counting shooting stars and counting down the days until my parents arrive. I am so ready for some familiarity and for spending time with people that I don't have to introduce myself to, tell them where I am from, how long I have been and will be traveling for...oh, it gets so old after a while.

The next morning we woke up and ate breakfast as I froze my butt off. The temperatures are really falling as we move South. They are probably still hotter that Allentown but I am so used to temperatures of around 100-120 degrees with humidity up the wazoo! We drove to Adelaide all day and went out for our final dinner at a wonderful Thai restaurant. It was tough saying goodbye to everyone because you get so close to them after being with them day in and day out for only a week. It's really bizarre. But it's good nonetheless. It's nice to know I can virtually travel all over the world and visit people I met through traveling in the first place.

I will be staying here in Adelaide for four more nights before I get up extra early and fly to Melbourne to meet my parents on Thursday morning. I am so, so, so excited. REAL food...REAL beds...REAL towels...and REAL love. Can life get any better at the moment?

Lauren P. Coker