I build hot rods, I do not restore old cars. I don't believe that only Ford parts should go into a Ford, or Chevy parts into a Chevy. Each auto maker has made some great cars and trucks and some not so great cars and trucks. In hot rodding we pick and choose what we want in a vehicle. We build our rides as unique as ourselves. If we choose to build a Ford body on a Chevy frame with a Chrysler engine, and we attach Cadillac tail lights and Studebaker headlights, then so be it. This is our artwork, and to fit all these parts together in an eye appealing manner takes imagination and skill. During the 1950s, Detroit leaned toward the hot rodder for new ideas. These came out as innovations such as the Corvette, the Mustang, seat belts, dual headlights, recessed door handles, custom outside mirrors, glitzy hubcaps, custom steering wheels, widetrack wheels, lowered stance, and plush, cushy interiors. Today, American cars are assembled in foreign countries of plastic and tin and sold for big dollars. We hot rodders have chosen to go back to the American way with American cars and trucks built in Detroit, of good old American iron and steel from Pittsburg. We will build OUR vehicles OUR way, with OUR money, OUR sweat, OUR busted knuckles, using OUR ideas, to fullfill OUR needs, wants, and desires. We will continue to share OUR knowledge with each other, and as each new generation comes to us to learn, we will pass the torch in hopes that they will continue when we've parked OUR vehicles for the last time.
End of rant.
First you need to think about a few things. Like what engine and transmission you'll use, and whether you'll use it on the strip, or a daily driver. Also, you need to consider whether you want to keep the original height, or lower it enough to decapitate ants. So let's look at what you already have.
Ford F-1 Frame:
>32" wide at the front, 34" wide at the rear, normal stance is 18"-21" from the ground. C type frame measuring 3" high by 2" wide, designed to flex or twist at the center.
>Almost flat from the front to the 2" rise at the rear.
>Front axle is a solid drop type, rear is offset. Both axles are mounted below the leaf springs.
>Hubs and drums are 15" and unique to the F-1, good luck trying to find replacements.
The F-1 was originally designed as a farm-to-market or utility truck to be driven on rough rutted roads. That's the reason for the flexible frame. With a 6 cyl/ 3 speed transmission, it's top speed was around 50 MPH. With the addition of V8 and an overdrive on the transmission it was capable of 60-65MPH highway speeds. A good frame for it's purpose, at the time. The pupose is now changed, and so have the times.
S-10 comes in three wheelbase lengths. 108" Shortbed, 117" Longbed, 122" Extended Cab. 2WD and 4WD. It has a variety of engines, 2.2 and 2.5 4 cyl, 2.8 and 4.3 V6 and transmissions, T5 Stick, 60 and 90 deg TH700 4R automatics. The rearend came in different ratios, 2.41, 2.73, 3.08, 3.23, 3.33, 3.42, 3.73, and 4.11. The frame you want for your swap is the 2WD 117" Longbed. How do you tell them apart? Easy. The Shortbed has a standard cab and a one piece driveshaft, the Ext Cab has the ext cab (obviously) and a two piece driveshaft. The one you want is the 2WD Longbed, it has a standard cab and a two piece driveshaft....see how easy that was. Try to get one that is 1989 or newer with the 2.8 or 4.3 V6 with an automatic transmission. If not, any S-10 2WD Longbed from 1982 on will work. WARNING: Stay away from the S-10 BLAZERS!!! The wheelbase is 100" 2dr and 108" 4dr. They also sit 6"-8" higher. FYI: The GMC S-15 or Sonoma is the same pick up as the S-10, and uses the same frame. Just remember: 2WD Longbed 117" wheelbase.
The S-10 Frame:
>33" wide at the front and 40" wide at the rear. Normal stance is about 10" to 12" from the ground. The frame is boxed from the front to the back of the cab, measuring 4" high and 3" wide, and expands to 5" wide at key stress points.
>The frame is NOT flat by any means. The center portion of the frame is 3" below the front A-Frame rise and 7" below the rear rise. Formed much like a Z'd frame.
>The front is an Independant Suspension with coil springs and torsion bars. The rear is offset by 1" and mounted above the leaf springs. Both can be lowered inexpensively.
>Hubs and drums are interchangeable with any year S-10, S-15, S-10 Blazer, most mid size GM. The bolt pattern is 4 3/4 and both the 14" and 15" rims fit.
>The fronts are power disc brakes, in newer years both front and rear are power disc brakes. All S-10/S15/Blazer differ- entials will swap out. 4WD are 4" wider.
>Power steering was the norm, but there are some older ones with stock steering.
Note: A "Rolling Chassis" is what you want, but make sure it has the power steering box. $200-$300 from the junkyard.