An Introduction to Silk Ribbon Embroidery

HISTORY

Silk ribbon embroidery is an antique embroidery form enjoying still another revival, the effects of which can be subtle or dynamic, nostalgic or contemporary.

Judith Montano explains there is a lack of documentation regarding the history of silk ribbon embroidery. Her research finds its first appearance in France in the 1700's. Ribbon embroidery was used then for elaborate decoration of royal and court dress. It was produced by professional embroidery houses and required months of labor. These houses thrived under patronage of French kings and nobles. French fashion drifted to England and the British court, and from there to its colonies (U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand).

These extravagant decorations can be seen in many portraits of the period. Bows, rosettes and runching were everywhere. Heather Joynes documents small items embroidered with fine ribbon by amateurs as well as professionals. Often this was shaded ribbon on items such as stomachers, workbags, pocketbooks, and pincushions.

Moravians in GA and PA were well known for their outstanding needlework, which included ribbon embroidery (circa late 1700's). These Moravians (also Quakers and Mormons) were also involved in silk cultivation in the early 1800's, but difficulties with mulberry tree cultivation (food source for silkworms) and a less expensive product from Orient curtailed U.S. efforts.

Between 1820 and 1840 ribbon embroidery could be found on men's waistcoats, reticules, needlecases, pincushions, and other domestic items. A revival of ribbon embroidery around 1870 was probably due to new ribbons from France. Ribbon embroidery appeared in quilts, millinery, clothing, and home decor. It was referred to in many American needlework books and magazines throughout the late 19th century. In the early 20th century and up to World War I, ribbon embroidery was popular as trim, appliqued and couched, as well as embroidery.

The current revival can be credited to the Australian and New Zealand embroiderers. They, and some Americans, have quietly kept ribbon embroidery alive; it has continued to be popular with doll and heirloom garment makers. Thanks to these embroiderers, availability of ribbon from Japan, and interest in Victoriana, ribbon embroidery is once again popular among needleartists.

1995 © Cynthia S. Wetzel

Please remember, these instructions, diagrams and photographs are copyright protected from unauthorized reprint and distribution just like any chart pack or pattern book you would purchase in your local needlework store.

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