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With nearly half a million people, Nepal's capital is far and away its biggest and most cosmopolitan city. For at least a thousand years it controlled the most important caravan route between Tibet and India - little wonder, perhaps, that Nepal's capital has so deftly embraced the tourist business.
The Kathmandu most travellers experience upon arrival is Thamel, a thumping theme park of hotels and hoardings with cakes beckoning from restaurant windows and touts flogging hashish to hippies on holiday. Further towards the centre are the many temples and monuments of Durbar square and the former royal palace with the old city's tangle of narrow alleys immediately to the north and south. The old city, though squeezed by traffic and commercial pressures, is still studded with ageless temples and splendid architecture. It seethes with an incredible crush of humanity, echoing with the din of bicycle bells, religious music, construction and car horns. Sacred cows still roam the streets, as do holy men, but perhaps the predominant images of contemporary Kathmandu are those of "progress:" hellish traffic jams, pollution and a jostling skyline of rooftop water-storage tanks and satellite dishes.
Though the city goes to bed early, from before dawn to around 10pm there's always something happening somewhere. Early morning is the best time to watch people going about their daily religious rites (puja), adorning idols with red paste (sindur), marigold petals and other offerings. If you walk around after dinner, especially in the neighbourhoods of Indrachowk, Asan or Chhetrapati, you'll frequently run across mesmerizing devotional hymn-sings (bhajan). Across the Bishnumati River lies the famous Swayambhu stupa, magnificently set on a conical hill while ritual bathers, temples and funeral pyres crowd the banks of the sacred Bagmati.
East of the old quarter, the
boulevards around the Royal Palace are wide and businesslike, lined with
airline offices and five-star hotels. Tiny, congested bazaars sprawl further
to the south.
Points
of Interest
Hanuman
Dhoka (Old Royal Palace) - Former royal residence
Eastern
edge of Durbar Square. Ancient and labyrinthine palace with carvings, paintings,
shrines and pagodas left by a dynasty of Nepalese kings. Guarantied not
to disappoint.
Kumari
Chowk - Temple
Southern
end of Durbar Square. This beautifully decorated temple is the gilded cage
of the Raj Kumari, Kathmandu's reincarnated "living goddess."
Kasthamandap
- Wooden pavilion
Southwestern
end of Durbar Square. One of the oldest wooden buildings in the world.
The lovely pagoda was a rest spot on the Tibet road and gave its name to
Kathmandu.
Bagmati
ghats - Ritual bathing ghats
Bagmati
river bank. Statues, temples and all manner of artefacts are jumbled along
these stone-paved embankments. Bathers share the holy waters with buffalo.
Swayambhu
- Huge temple
Perched
on a hill 2km west of Thamel. The gigantic hilltop temple is overrun with
pilgrims and monkeys and is the most profound expression of Buddhist symbolism
in Nepal.
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Singapore may no longer be a rough-and-ready port of rickshaws, opium dens, pearl luggers and pirates, but you can still recapture the colonial era with a gin sling under the languorous ceiling fans at Raffles Hotel, dine out at the renovated quays along the Singapore River where merchant ships once berthed, and visit the numerous Victorian relics that have survived the city's relentless development. It is this carefully stage-managed combination of Western modernity and a treasured Eastern and colonial past, that makes Singapore such an accessible slice of Asia.
Budget
accommodation is in 'crash pads' (dormitories) or Chinese hotels; the former
are concentrated around Bencoolen St, the latter in Chinatown and on Jalan
Besar and Beach Rd. There are few moderately priced hotels, but plenty
of international-standard hotels - and there's always Raffles for those
with bottomless wallets. For tasty budget Indian and Chinese food, try
one of the hundreds of hawker centres (conglomerations of permanent food
stalls) scattered throughout Singapore. Orchard Rd, the colonial district,
Chinatown and Little India are the best areas for shopping.
Environment
Singapore
consists of the main, low-lying Singapore Island and 58 smaller islands
within its territorial waters. Urban areas comprise almost 50% of the land
area, while parkland, reservoirs, plantations and open military areas occupy
40%. Singapore Island measures approximately 42km east to west and 23km
north to south at its widest points. While there are built-up, high-density
areas all around the island, the main city area is in the south, built
on the shores of the Singapore River. The Central Business District (CBD)
is at the southern shore of the river's mouth. Chinatown adjoins the CBD
to the south-west. To the north of the Singapore River is the colonial
district, which has many reminders of British rule. Further north again
is Little India and Arab St. Orchard Rd runs north-west from the colonial
district.
To the
west of the island is Jurong, an industrial area with a sprinkling of tourist
attractions. The east coast has some of the older residential areas, a
major beach park and the international airport. The north-east is the location
of huge housing developments and the central north of the island has most
of Singapore's undeveloped land and remaining forest. A 1km long causeway
connects Singapore with Johor Bahru in Malaysia; a second causeway is planned
to relieve congestion. Under current plans, land reclamation and housing
developments should dramatically alter Singapore's geography.
Hot and
humid year-round, Singapore's temperature almost never drops below 20 degrees
Celsius, even at night, and usually climbs to 30 degrees Celsius during
the day. Humidity is high, hovering around the 75% mark. Singapore is wettest
from November to January and at its driest from May to July - the difference
between the two, however, is slight. And due to Singapore's proximity to
the equator, it receives a steady diet of sunshine all year.
When
to Go
Go anytime.
Climate is not a major consideration, as Singapore gets fairly steady annual
rainfall. You may like to co-ordinate your visit with various festivals
and events: Thaipusam is one of the most spectacular festivals, occurring
around February. If shopping and eating are your major concerns, July is
a good month as the Singapore Food Festival and Great Singapore Sale are
held.
Facts
for the Traveller
Visas:
Most Western nationals do not require visas; a 14-day permit is issued
on arrival, but a one-month permit is usually no problem if asked for.
Extensions beyond a month are difficult to obtain.
Health
risks: None
Currency:
Singapore dollar
Time:
GMT/UTC plus eight hours
Electricity:
220-240V, 50 Hz
Weights
& measures: Metric with local
Tourism:
6.5 million visitors annually
Money
& Costs
Currency:
Singapore dollar
Relative
costs:
Cheap
meal: US$2-3
Restaurant
meal: US$10-15
Cheap
room: US$7-12
Hotel
room: US$40-80
Singapore
is much more expensive than other South-East Asian countries which may
come as a shock if you are travelling on a shoestring budget. You can still
stay here, though, without spending too much money if you can forego the
temptation to run amok in the shops or indulge in luxuries you may have
craved while travelling in less developed Asian countries. It's possible
to stay in Singapore for under US$20 a day, if you stay in hostels and
eat cheaply. If you're staying in mid-range hotels and eating at good restaurants,
US$70 is a more realistic daily minimum.
All major credit cards are widely accepted, although you're not going to make yourself too popular after a hard bargaining session for a new camera if you then try to pay for it with your Visa card. ATMs are widespread, although it's probably still a good idea to take cash and travellers' cheques for emergencies. You'll find moneychangers in shopping centres all over Singapore.
Tipping is not usual in Singapore: expensive hotels and restaurants may impose a 10% service charge, and a gratuity is not expected in excess of this. Bargaining is falling by the wayside, but tourists should still expect to haggle for luxury items and souvenirs. It is unnecessary to bargain for everyday goods or transport.
Attractions
Colonial
Singapore
The
mark of Sir Stamford Raffles is indelibly stamped on central Singapore.
By moving the business district south of the river and making the northern
area the administrative centre, Raffles created the framework that remained
the blueprint for central Singapore through generations of colonial rule
and the republican years of independence. Places of interest include: Empress
Place Building, an imposing Victorian structure, built in 1865, that houses
a museum, art and antique galleries and a chic restaurant; the incongruous
Padang, where flannelled cricketers once caught, bowled and batted in the
searing heat; Raffles Hotel, a Singaporean institution which has become
a byword for oriental luxury; and any number of imposing churches, such
as St Andrew's Cathedral and the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd.
Chinatown
Chinatown
is Singapore's cultural heart and still provides glimpses of the old ways
with its numerous temples, decorated terraces and its frantic conglomeration
of merchants, shops and activity. Unfortunately much of Chinatown has been
torn down and redeveloped over the past 30 years. Faithful restoration
by the Urban Redevelopment Authority has saved some parts but it has also
posed a new threat, since the restored buildings are now desirable properties
commanding high rents, and traditional businesses - such as shops selling
incense to temple worshippers, letter writers and chop (stamp) makers -
are moving out and a new gentrified Chinatown of fashionable restaurants
and expensive shops is taking its place. It's still a fascinating place
to explore though, especially in the early morning hours when activity
is more pronounced. The Thian Hock Keng Temple in Chinatown is arguably
the most interesting in Singapore.
Orchard
Rd
This
is the area where the high-class hotels predominate. It is also the domain
of Singapore's elite, who are lured by the shopping centres, nightspots,
restaurants, bars and lounges. A showcase for the material delights of
capitalism, Orchard Rd also possesses some sights of cultural interest
where a credit card is not required.
Jurong
Jurong
Town, west of the city centre, is a huge industrial and housing area that
is the powerhouse of Singapore's economy. This might seem an unlikely spot
for a number of Singapore's tourist attractions but it is home to the Haw
Par Villa (an incredibly tacky Chinese mythological theme park), the beautifully
landscaped Jurong Bird Park, Chinese & Japanese Gardens and the hands-on
Singapore Science Centre.
Sentosa
Island
Considered
the granddaddy of Singapore's parks, Sentosa Island is the city-state's
most visited attraction, especially on weekends. It has museums, aquariums,
beaches (with imported sand), sporting facilities, walks, rides and food
centres. And if a day isn't enough to take in all the sites and activities,
the island has a camping ground, hostel and luxury hotels.
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