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Derawan - Borneo
July 1999
Hello
Well I went to Derawan and Sangalaki and Kakaban
islands .....
And do I have a few things to tell you !!!
First off is Kakaban island. It's more of a really
thick wall in the sea really because there is a huge lagoon right in the
middle of it - and this lagoon is FULL of stingless jellyfish. It was the
most wierd experience snorkelling through all these jelly fish. Hard to
describe really. If you can imagine at least 50 jellyfish about the diameter
of your hand smimming in all directions right in front of you - when you
turn in any direction there is another 50 to look at. It's almost like
being microscopic and swimming through some strange liquid looking at what
makes it! Very strange and wonderful! The jelly fish were the "upside down
jellyfish" if you know what they look like, but most of them weren't upside
down! I thought this experience was EXCELLENT!
Well, on to Derawan Island where I stayed. Here
is really good for small stuff - mainly. The coral here is just in excellent
condition. I drifted over the top of coral garden at quiet a speed sometimes
(more like flew over it!) and for 5-8 minutes didn't see a patch of sand,
just coral packed in amougst more coral. It was great! As one of the guys
I dived with said "I've just seen all the coral books in the whole world!".
Very good condition! I also saw a seahorse, leaf fish, absolutely loads
of different nudiebranches, frog fish, octopus, loads of big cuttle fish
- always excellent to watch - turtles, blue spotten rays, glass shrimp,
mantis shrimp, gobis, morays, jacks, triggers, scorpion fish and stone
fish - and this was normal there!
But of course I had some very memorable dives
there too, one in particular was Shark Cave....
I decended down the rope of the bouy and follows
another rope along a rocky slope, across a big sandy patch and at 35-40m
there was a big rock juting up. The side we approached had a cave entrance
about 7m across at 42-44m depth. Inside the cave was a 2m+ Tawy shark,
sleeping and very pregnant! We were about 2-3m away from her so not to
disturb her. Quite a sight. Then out and around the corner of the rock
there were two more caves, one above the other. In the upper cave another
2m shark slept at the back! Couldn't stay for too long because my computer
told me to start acending! On the way up at 8m we passed a large sandy
area - a flat plateu of sand - I looked and out of the haze at the edge
of visibility I saw the most amazing sight - one of those sights that you
can remember like it just happened. There was more than 7 big rays (not
sure of the name) sort of munching thier way over the sand in a line towards
me. They floated just an inch or two above the sand and left a low cloud
in thier wake. They were more than 1.5m in diameter - amazing to watch.
Later I got to within a meter of one as it lay covered in sand on the sea
bed. I was smiling when I climbed aboard the dive boat after this dive,
make no mistake!!!!
Well, now for Sangalaki. I met some divers who
had been there for almost two weeks and not seen the Mantas. I met a guy
who stayed on Sangalaki one week and had seen one. My first dive there
was at Manta Boulavard ...
Down to coral next to a huge sand bank (no ATM
though). Lots of sand eels there. Checked it out and then went up and overit
- like a sand dune. Nice corals spread out over a sandy bottom - very nice
scenery. Saw a swhite leaf fish, clown trigger, then a pigmy devil ray
went by - 1 to 1.5m diameter. Excellent! We then went to a cleaning station
and after a little while (49th minute of a 50 minute dive!) along came
a 2m span Manta Ray! We watched it for the rest of the dive. Fortunately
it was only me and the DM on the dive and he was a good Divemaster because
we stayed down another 34 minutes :-)! The manta banked, circled and settled
down a meter above the sand, gently gliding over one spot, as it got cleaned.
We watch the cleaner fish go into its gills and out again. I was about
0.5m away from it at times. So picture the manta to the right, then me
back from it 2m and the DM, Sajid, 2m to my left a forward slightly - like
a triangle. We were being mesmerised by the manta when two turles plonk
themselves down right in front of us! One on top of the other. He had her
by the neck and after a brief struggle she broke free and swam off slowly.
He swam after her fast and climbed back onto her back - hitching a ride
because she was doing all the finning! Amazing, and this could have happened
2m behind us and we would never have seen it! We swam away with the manta
as it left the cleaning station and at 5m during my Safety Stop I watched
it bank into the haze at the edge of visibility (20m) and ANOTHER manta
smim right under me! What a Dive!
Well after the surface interval we went out to
watch MANTAS GALORE feeding at the surface in a long line of plankton.
So the next dive was Plankton Path, just 5-8 benether the surface as Manta
Rays came towards me mouth wide open and then gently bank away as they
go close. This was wierd because the plankton made for bad vis. - about
5m mainly. I saw more than 20 mantas on this dive. I also saw them on two
other dives I did at Sangalaki. Everyone said I was lucky, I know I was!
So all in all I'd say pretty good diving off the
south coast of Borneo. Top Notch!
Another one for the list hey! I didn't get to
dive Maratua island - which I hear is very good for BIG fish and strong
current. So I guess I'll be back some day!
SORTED
Love
Mark
The DiveMaster
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