Go into any antiques fair and I am sure that you will see at least one example of a Sphinx piece on a jewellery stall! Some of the most recognised ones are those that consist of rhinestone-encrusted metal "crescents" or elongated "S-shapes". Of course, there is the oval cartouche / stamping to search for as well as the look and feel of the metalwork.  

Two very popular designs are what I personally call the "Wreath" and the "U-Shape".  These have very intricate metal settings and as a result are three-dimensional and slightly domed. The inclusion of the diamante-set crescent moon shapes really does make the piece sparkle!  In reality, the U-Shapes are pinned so that the "tails" drape downwards but I find it easier to call them U-Shapes; I have heard other references as "Question Mark Shapes" as well as "Prawn" and "Shrimp" - there is no official term - what ever is easier for you to remember is best! 

Dimensions:

These are large brooches, the Wreaths approx 2 inches in diameter and the U-Shapes approx 2 inches wide by 2.5 inches tall. Their metal crescents are approx 1cm in size with up to 7 tiny, pave-set diamante rhinestones.  Metals are either gold-tone or silver-tone but I have seen some examples in a pewter-silver as well as black enamel.  The metal "S" shapes are approx 1.5cm, again, set with tiny, sparkly chatons.  I have seen examples set with smooth turquoise cabouchons also.

I have seen a few wreath brooches with their crescents missing - both as part of the design (the settings being filled-in with blobs of metal or flat-back rhinestones) and also as the result of a past accident - maybe one of the crescents had fallen off so the rest were snapped-off to make the brooch symmetrical. The difference is striking - having the crescents really does make the brooch look that little-bit extra-special!

{TBC: include picture here of wreath sans-crescents}

Other examples have a metal  "sprig of leaves" set with tiny chatons, instead of the 6 crescents. These leaves are common on another design of Sphinx brooch:  the "paisley" or "comma" or "prawn" shaped settings. Pictures below of leaves and crescents:

As for the U-Shapes - these are one of my favourite Sphinx designs!  I have in my possession an example of one stamped twice, both Sphinx and  "B&W"  for Butler and Wilson!  (I bought it at an antiques fair in Covent Garden in 2004) The Sphinx company were well known for making great-quality settings for other jewellery houses including Butler & Wilson, West etc.

{TBC: include picture here of B&W U-shape}

As well as the regular Wreaths and U-Shapes, there are also "Baby" versions of these settings - the Wreaths approx 1.25 inches diameter.  The crescents are smaller too - approx 0.5cm in size.  These are less easy to find than the regular large sizes. Comparison below of a Baby and a Large Wreath:

The "Baby" U-Shapes are  approx 1.25 inches wide by 1.5 inches tall. Another difference is that they have only one S-shape on the setting whereas the larger version has two of these. Also, instead of a pear-shaped stone there is a navette (marquise) stone on the very-right.   Picture below:

Of course, we have matching earrings  for these brooches, incorporating both a crescent and an "S" shape setting.

Colourways:

The main colour-schemes that these brooches come in (but are not restricted to) are as follows: 

•    Autumnal 1: topaz-brown, golden-yellow-topaz, hyacinth-orange, aurora borealis 

•    Autumnal 2: topaz-brown, golden-yellow-topaz, peridot-pale-green, aurora borealis   

•   Ruby: Siam-ruby-red, jet-black, black-diamond-grey, rose-pink, aurora borealis  

•   Sapphire: sapphire-blue, crystal, aurora borealis 

•   Emerald: emerald-green, peridot-pale-green, aurora borealis  

•   Amethyst: amethyst-purple, pale amethyst lilac, crystal, aurora borealis 

•   Amethyst mix: amethyst-purple, montana-blue, zircon-green 

•   Crystal:  crystal chatons, usually in a silver setting 

•   Black-Diamond: grey sparkly crystals (usually in a silver setting)  

Stones are usually by Swarovski or high-end Austrian chatons.  The older vintage settings have the most wonderful, sumptuous quality to the metal - almost a powdery texture,  whereas later versions can be seen to have been "dipped" into their plating metal, leaving a very smooth "molten" finish.

Vintage or Modern?

Although the Sphinx company closed in 2000, there are now modern (unsigned)  versions being made in the Far East that I have seen for sale on street markets in England - their stones sparkle amazingly but when you inspect the back of the setting, not only are they unsigned, but the finish looks rough in comparison to the vintage pieces. Still very beautiful to behold with some wonderful colour schemes (I have seen opaque turquoise with glass pearls in some pieces) they are great to wear without the worry of damage - as these are easier to replace than a vintage piece! 

I am unsure, but I am guessing that the British accessories company "Mikey" may have bought part of the old Sphinx company. Mikey have a superb collection of glamorous, sparkly rhinestone jewellery and their 2004 / 2005 collections had a great selection of new vintage-style brooches, one example being a Wreath design with metal leaves instead of crescents. (as per the leaves in the picture on this page)  I have bought items from their costume-jewellery shop in Reading but their goods are not made in the UK, rather, mainly  imported from the Far East.  

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