Day 8: Monday, 29 July
Day 9: Tuesday, 30 July
Day 10: Wednesday, 31 July
Day 11: Thurs., 1 Aug
Day 12: Friday, 2 Aug
Day 13: Saturday, 3 Aug
Day 14: Sunday, 4 Aug
Sherrin meets me at the Cuban film Azucar Amargo (Bitter Sugar), recommended by Jonathan and Rebecca the day before in Santa Cruz. It is a pelicula (film) muy buena, de amor y politica. At one point, when a man in the film is talking to a woman he loves, the subtitles read "I will wait for you." But, the verb esperar, which he uses, can also mean to hope, or to expect. My first unstranslatable Spanish moment. :) If anyone knows how they got permission to make part of this film in Cuba, I would love to know the story. Also, how accurate is its depiction of life in Cuba.
Monique from Holland joins us for a drink afterwards, and we discuss the film, love, politics and the meaning of life over cervesas.
I am awakened to sounds of firecrackers as Antigua celebrates the pope's visit, and the canonization of the local saint de Antigua, Hermano Pedro. When I leave the house, I see one of the sources of the commotion, a boy is celebrating the pope's visit ... with a toy capgun.
There was a rampant (but false) rumor that the pope would visit Antigua, reflecting the hopes of the people here. This is a deeply religious land. The director of my school and most of the teachers have gone to see the pope, but my teacher is working. I happen to go downstairs and see the pope on TV at the moment he pronouces the new saint. Pandemonium breaks out in the street around me.
At night, I go with Christobol and Kristin (from Germany) to see the film amoresperros (loosely translated as "Love's a Bitch"). Another great film -- but very violent. Not for squeamish dog lovers.
I meet Carla, Isabelle and Rachel afterwards (who saw the film "Under the Puma", about Guatemalan politics), and we all walk Carla to her home on the edge of town. The volcano (Volcan Fuego) is erupting miles away, and we stand a while watching the glowing lava flowing from the top.
I have a private lesson with Julio, the Maesto de Baile Salsa (Salsa Teacher) recommended by Udo, another student at our school. One of the best dance lessons I have ever had (for 100 Q., or $15). Julio dances Salsa as a dance of the people. His English is not a whole lot better than my Spanish ... but we both speak the same language. He and his partner Monique are very interested in Swing Dancing, and I show them some clips on my computer.
I meet Carla and her friend Omar (from her school) at the fountain. Carla takes us to the galleria of another of her collection of amigos nuevos, a local Mayan artist (who unfortunately was not there). It is in a beautiful building on the edge of town, el Vientre Verde .
That night, Hugo , from the school, leads a trip to view Volcan Fuego close up from a private coffee plantation. When he asks who wants to ride on the roof of the land rover, I think he was joking, but Carla does not miss a beat in volunteering.
Fog shrouds our walk to a clearing, where we have to take Hugo's word that there was a volcano nearby. Slowly the clouds move aside to reveal a double light show. To one side, the lightning of a Guatemalan rainy season storm; to the other, splinters of glowing red breaking through a lethargic crust of black flowing lava. Above us, the stars keep us safe from the rain.
Afterwards, Carla, Rachel and I reflect on new friends, travels and speaking with a gradeschool vocabulary, over drinks and nachos at the Mono Loco. Rachel has the travel bug bad, and just extended her trip by another month. The bar is full of foreigners; grafitti on the bathroom stall reads: Estamos en America Ahorita.
Later, I go briefly to check out the real spot for Salsa in Antigua --Torerros. (O.K., so I had a great private lesson last night, but man, do I have a long way to go!).
I wake up this morning with a sore throat. Lidia tests my knowledge of the past tense of irregular verbs as I crash on a couch. I have the feeling of playing of grand game of SimTravels, solving for simultaneous equations in excitement, adventure, learning, rest and tranquility.
On the way home I check out another art galllery. There is something that touches me about the art here. Honesty. Passion. Tranquility.
At mi casa, Takashi brings out a book of Origami, and he, Valerie and I make a menagerie for Astril, la nieta (grandaughter) de Alicia, to keep.
I am supposed to meet some new friends at O'Reilley's Pub, but am sick as a perro (dog). Nothing doing.
Next week, I plan to study in Xela (a.k.a. Quetzeltanango), Guatemala's 2nd largest city further up in the highlands, 2 or 3 hours to the west.
Sleep. Take pictures of mi familia. Sleep some more.
I am still moving slowly, but my wanderlust is strong, so I push on for Xela.
To get to Xela, I am told to change in "Guate," which I soon learn is Guatemala City, the dirty, bustling capital. The public restrooms there have a creative arrangement (remind me to "go" before I leave Antigua next time).
Approaching Xela, another rainy rainy season storm is brewing in the distance.
Continous sheets of ligtning jump from one point on the horizon to another,
causing the clouds to glow like something out of Star Trek.
It is about 10:30 when we pull into Xela.
There are two gringas and their amores latinos
in a store near the parque central.
One of them asks me in American, am I OK; do I have a room?
Yes to both questions.
However, we pass three places without vacancies.
Casa Argentina may have rooms, I am told.
One of the amores is a salsa teacher by day, so I take his number
and head off through the deserted maze of diagonal streets.
My footsteps echo loudly on the cobble pavement.
Dogs foraging for food don't speak Spanish, and are no help.
Around midnight, I finally find my goal and secure a dorm bed for the night.