Colt 9mm Combat Commander

This is what the gun looked like a couple years ago.

This gun had some minor rust and pitting spots in addition to normal bluing wear. I had used cold blue to touch up some of my earlier gunsmithing efforts, and this was wearing off as well.

Metal Preparation

After disassembly and degreasing, I masked off the polished areas using masking tape and a razor knife. The matte areas were abrasive blasted with 100 grit aluminum oxide until they appeared uniform.

On the polished surfaces, I used a hard Arkansas stone to smooth the pitting, and then used 400 grit sandpaper, followed by 600, 800, and finally 1000 grit. For a final polish I lightly used a muslin buffing wheel lightly loaded with Dico stainless steel polish. Below you can see the polished surfaces contrasting with the sandblasted trigger guard, frontstrap, etc.

Bluing

After preparation, the parts were boiled in a solution of trisodium phosphate, and rinsed with hot water to remove any grease and dirt. I left the parts in a pot of warm water while I was preparing the bluing salts, but I don't recommend this, as the parts began to rust within the hour. The rust was easily removed with a very fine abrasive paste (Metal-Glo). It would be a good idea to let the parts dry until you are ready to blue. Be sure to remove any water spots because they will show up in the bluing.

The bluing salts consisted of the ammonium nitrate + lye formula heated to 290 degrees. I strung the frame & slide on a piece of wire and placed them on the bottom of the pot. The small parts were placed in a steel wire basket and lowered into the solution. I left the parts in for about 30 minutes and rinsed them off. There were a few spots of stubborn, fine rust on the larger parts, but this was easily removed with the Metal-Glo paste. After rinsing and drying, I sprayed all the parts with WD-40 and reassembled the gun. I haven't attempted buffing the finished surface again but I don't think it would do any harm if lightly done.

Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

1