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September 12, 2000 - Bakersfield, California
Plans are meant to be broken, but here is what it looks like now:
December 16th New Zealand, December 30th Australia, February 10th Thailand, March 11th Egypt, March 17th Israel, March 28th Turkey, April 12th Greece, April 28th Switzerland, May 9th Portugal/Spain, May 28th Washington DC, June 12th Los Angeles
December 19th, 2000 - Auckland, New Zealand
After enduring the middle seat in a 747-400, 3 movies, 3 shows, 2 meals, and a snack - I finally landed...in Fiji. After an hour stop, I got back on the plane. One more meal. One more movie. 24 hours after I got up I was in Auckland. I crossed the equator and the date line. Orion is upside down. It is 2 days until the beginning of summer. After the first hostel lost my reservation, I got the last bed in a 300 person hostel downtown. I feel far away from home, but on my flight I was reminded that it still is a small world. A 15 year old girl from San Francisco sitting next to me was going to Auckland to see her grandmother for the first time. Her father was adopted from Samoa, and the family recently got in touch with each other again. It turned out that the father's girlfriend's parents live next door to the father's parents in Auckland. I am going to meander around the city today.
December 21, 2000 - Nelson, New Zealand
I ended up taking a ferry around the harbor in Auckland, and got off at an extinct volcano, Ranitoto. It was about an hour hike up to the top with plush vegetation growing out of the black lava rocks and nice 360 degree views. Then I headed to Rotorua and walked around the Wai-o-Tapu thermal wonderland. Lots of thermal activity everywhere in town. The hostel had thermal pools. The whole town smelled of sulphur. In the evening I experienced some traditional Maori activities at Whakarewarewa (this is the shortened name). A Powhiri (official welcoming), warrior haka preparation, and a Haakari feast. I got my picture taken with a Maori warrior with our tongues sticking out (if you have seen their haka you would understand). Now I am in Nelson in the South Island. After getting fruit, cheese, peanut butter, and rolls I am going to spend the day at the beach.
December 27, 2000 - Christchurch, New Zealand
I have been away from internet cafes for the last week. No television either. I will have to look at the ABC news site to see what has been happening lately. I went on a three day kayak trip with
Ocean River
at the Abel Tasman National Park. We had all the food and gear we needed for three days in the two person kayak. They were a lot larger than river kayaks. After stopping for tea, we kayaked to Mosquito Bay and set up camp. The tides created and took away lagoons and beaches. The water was clear and green. Tiny beaches along the coast were mixed with ancient forests. The second day we paddled to Tonga Island, which is a seal colony. I must have seen a hundred seals of all ages. Of course the little baby furry ones were my favorite. We passed sting rays and others schools of fish the next day. For Christmas Eve and Christmas I stayed a Kimeret Place near Mapau. It is run by an English couple that moved to New Zealand a couple of years ago. So I actually had a lot of English traditional foods - even Christmas pudding that was set on fire. I finally found the Southern Cross in the sky on Christmas Eve. On Christmas day, my host drove me to a hike in the Kahurangi National Park. I got a ride down with an Italian couple on their honeymoon. Then I headed down the west coast and caught a train to the Arthurs Pass National Park. I stayed in a tiny town in the southern alps. The weather predictions called for terrible rain the next day. I woke up and it was sunny, so I went for a short trek to Devils Punchbowl Falls. The weather was still sunny, so I decided to hike above the tree line to Mt. Aicken. At the top it was still sunny, and I was blessed with amazing views of snowy peaks and waterfalls. When I got down to the road it started to pour. So far I have lucked out in the weather department. See past trips for pictures of my New Zealand trip last year.
January 8, 2001 - Melbourne, Australia
Happy New Year! After visiting the Banks Peninsula in New Zealand, I boarded a plane to Tasmania. I signed up for a 8 day adventure with Tasmanian Expeditions from Cradle Mountain to Lake St. Clair called the Overland Track. We set off on December 30th and stayed the first night near the Waldheim Chalet. There were 9 other people on the trip. We were like Noah's Arc: 2 nurses, 2 social workers, 2 engineers, 2 teachers, and 2 guides. We were ready for the challenge. I found a web site with pictures to give you an idea of what the World Heritage Area looked like. Everyone else on the track was Australian, so over the next 8 days I was immersed in Australian culture with a rude crude walking machine, a movie star, a grasshopper, a princess, a bread winner, a mud hole finder, a scoparia finder, a stocky/stroggy/stumpy guy, and Tetley the all around guide. The journey was full of humor, language lessons, and vegimite. I got up early the next morning to watch the sun rise over the snow covered Cradle Mountain which I climbed later that day. I saw out the old year with some wine, whiskey, and a noise maker. I welcomed the first light of the new year on Bluff Cirque. There wasn't too much sleep between these two events. Over the next few days I took a dip in Lake Windermere, went through Frog Flats, climbed Mt. Oakleigh and Mt. Ossa, and saw waterfalls. The bushwalk covered over 60 miles, I had no shower, and carried almost everything (tent, sleeping bag, food, and gear). We had a lot of nice warm days, and one wet day with hail and the hokey pokey to keep warm. I saw a wombat, wallabies, pademelons, possums, leeches, and snakes. Unfortunately, I didn't catch a glimpse of the Tasmanian Devil. The day after the trip, Bach (a fellow bushwalker) and I went on a search for the elusive animal and found some Devils at a wildlife park near Hobart. I saw it eat rabbits - bone, fur, and all. I even got to feed a kangaroo out of my hand. I headed to Melbourne today, and planned the rest of my Australian journey.
January 15, 2001 - Uluru/Alice Springs, Australia
I had dinner in Melbourne with a cousin of one of my friends. It was very nice to have a home cooked meal. Then I spent a day on the Great Ocean Road along the southern coast which had unique rock formations in the ocean. For the last 5 days I have been bloody hot. It has been 110F in the shade. I stayed a night at a hostel in the Ayer's Rock Resort. Then I joined Northern Territory Adventure Tours for a 3 day safari. We watched the sunset over Uluru, and got up the next morning to hike to the top to watch the sun rise. We visited to Olgas and Kings Canyon National Park which had a great water hole to swim in. I slept two nights under the stars in the Outback. This is the first time I have actually not used a tent while camping. My only fears were dingos, spiders, and snakes. No worries. It was all good. The tents were too hot, and the guide slept outside so I knew it was ok. Good BBQ. We searched for dingos, but they were hiding. I went up in a helicopter for the first time - only an 8 minute flight, but it was an interesting experience. And I even ate a kangaroo burger.
January 21, 2001 - Darwin/Kakadu, Australia
I got an cool email today. I found out my 97 year old grandmother is following me online too. Hi Grandma! I journeyed up to Darwin and went on a 4WD trip through Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks. It is the wet season, although I don't believe it because I have been in the Top End for 6 days and it has sprinkled once. After finding a few crocodiles on a boat ride, we arrived at Kakadu. There are a lot of Aboriginal paintings around that you can walk right up to. We spent most of the trip looking at waterfalls, and swimming under waterfalls. At Gubara we climbed to the top of Castle Rock which required going through a cave. I listened to the guide and laid on my stomach and pulled myself through an area that wasn't much bigger than me. Halfway through I looked to my right and saw the others taking an easier, more spacious path through an entrance around the corner. It was fun, I got very dirty, but I am going to think twice before trusting those Aussie guides. At night we went snake searching - thankfully we only saw one tiny one on the whole trip. There were plenty of kangaroos, dingos, lizards, bats, large spiders, and termite mounds that were taller than me. Around the campfire, I made an attempt to play the digerido. I think all I made was noise.
January 26, 2001 - Port Douglas/Cape Tribulation, Australia
Happy Australia Day. After a couple of days relaxing in Darwin, I flew to the east coast, and spent a couple of days relaxing in Port Douglas. I went sailing on a 52 ft ocean racing yacht, and was at the helm for a while. I also went swimming at 4 Mile Beach in the refreshing 86F water. This time of year the box jellyfish is near shore, so there was only a 50m netted area that you can swim in. Then I went up to Cape Tribulation and stayed at a hostel in the rain forest. I went on a night walk in the pouring rain and found strange animals and insects. Luckily, the bird eating spider stayed in his nest. I went on another crocodile cruise and we saw a beaten up 12 foot croc -what a beauty.
February 1, 2001 - Cairns/Great Barrier Reef, Australia
After two days in the classroom and the pool at Deep Sea Divers Den, I went out to the reef for 4 dives with my instructor. I had to do buoyancy skills, simulate problems that might occur, and learn how to use dive tables so I didn't stay down too long. And then I became a certified Open Water Diver. My deepest dive was 60 feet. I stayed on Ocean Quest for 2 nights and had 5 more dives including a night dive. The coral and fish were unique, colorful, and everywhere. There were a few reef sharks, sting rays, and a turtle. The big fish below, everyone calls Wally, was very friendly and curious. The whole experience was beautiful. Now that I am off the boat, I have been experiencing land sickness. I feel like the earth is swaying. And what have I decided to do this week? Spend 3 more days on the water - this time sailing.
February 5, 2001 - Airlie Beach/Whitsundays, Australia
Just sit right back and you'll hear a tale, a tale of a fateful trip, that started in Airlie Beach, aboard a sailing ship. Seven passengers set sail that day for a three day tour. The weather started getting rough, the tiny ship was tossed. If not for the courage of the fearless crew, the Platinum would be lost. OK, so we didn't end up on Gilligan's Island, but we sure saw a lot of Hennings Island. The gear box wouldn't hold fluid, we got lost on a bush walk, it rained, and the anchor got stuck. We made the best of these setbacks, and it actually turned out to be a fun trip. The British passengers were entertaining, even though they made fun of the lone American. We snorkeled, had an evening at Hamilton Island, and sailed to Whitehaven Beach on a healthier boat the last day.
February 10, 2001 - Sydney, Australia
I only had 4 days in Sydney, but it was a great city. I climbed the Harbour Bridge, walked around the Rocks, and toured the Opera House. I had two beach days at Coogee, Bondi, and Manly. I had fish and chips at Mosman with a friend I met in Tasmania, and a personal tour of Olympic Park by a friend of a friend I met in Ayers Rock. I will definitely be back in Australia someday.
February 12, 2001 - Pattaya, Thailand
After a 9 hour flight I landed in Bangkok. My friend Dan from Penn State (who is currently working in Thailand) met me at the airport and his driver took us to Pattaya along the crazy Thai roads. I have my own room with a queen sized bed and a view of the Gulf of Thailand, my own bathroom, and I have had two home cooked meals. Today I had a massage, pedicure, and manicure all for less than $20. Pure luxury for the tired backpacker with tired feet. It is a resort town with lots of strange sites.
February 18, 2544 (after Buddha) - Sukhothai, Thailand
I wish I had my first tuk-tuk (a three wheeled taxi) ride on video. I was in Ayuttaya. If the driver honked, you knew it was a close call. It the driver honked and swerved, it was a really close call. And if the driver honked, swerved, and braked - you better hold on. I have spent 3 days in Sukhothai in a small bungaloo. I had a thai massage on my front porch and wonderful meals. I enjoyed brushing my teeth in my open air bathroom and looking out over the fields. I rented a bike for a day and rode around the country side. I played badmitten with a family, flew a kite in a school yard, and ate strange flowers a women was collecting from a tree. Every child wanted to say hello. And the smiles on their faces were enormous. I was interviewed by both 8 year olds and university students that are studying English. Both Ayuttaya and Sukhothai have old ruins from the 1200s to 1500s that were interesting.
February 23, 2544 - Chiang Mai, Thailand
I went on a three day trek in the hills near Pai. We walked through bamboo forests and dry rice fields, stayed in hill tribe villages, rode elephants along and through the river, floated on bamboo rafts, and had wonderful Thai food. Once back in Chiang Mai I spent the day riding a bike around to the temples. Chiang Mai also has huge, loud, crazy Night Markets. My favorite things to eat are banana pancakes from a street vendor. They are very addicting, along with the yogurt fruit shakes. As I am sitting in this internet shop, I am surrounded by 10-15 year old monks in their orange robes playing video games.
March 1, 2544 - Bangkok/Phuket/Similan Islands, Thailand
I spent two nights in Bangkok - and I have had the song in my head ever since. My friend Dan gave my a tour: a 45 meter golden reclining Buddha, the Grand Palace and the Emerald Buddha, the floating markets where buyers and sellers are in boats floating every direction, and the backpacker central - Khao San Road. Then I flew down to Phuket and hung out at the beach for a couple of days. I just got back from a dive boat where I spent 2 days in the Similan Islands. I completed 6 dives and saw all sorts of corals, fish, and turtles.
March 9, 2544 - Ko Phi Phi, Khao Sok National Park/Bangkok Thailand
I spent 3 days on Ko Phi Phi snorkeling, hanging out in the sun, and relaxing. It is a beautiful island with huge limestone cliffs. (This is where the movie The Beach was filmed.) Then for my last few days in Thailand I wanted to hike and see waterfalls. I headed to Khao Sok National Park and I stayed in a wonderful cabin on the side of a mountian. I hiked, enjoyed the evening thunder storms, and watched a monkey play a few meters from my porch. I have spent the day bartering in the markets of Bangkok and got my haircut for $2.
March 11, 2001 - Dubai, United Arab Emirates
I had a short stop over in Dubai where I visited my friend Steve. After shopping a bit (March is the Shopping Festival) we went on a desert safari full of camels, a sketchy 4WD ride on the sand dunes, sunboarding (like snowboarding but on sand), henna, dinner, and a little belly dancing. The city is very modern with huge buildings with nice arcitecture .
March 22, 2001 - Cairo/Aswan/Luxor, Egypt
Egypt has been full Pyramids, lots of tombs and temples along the Nile, and a 2 day Nile cruise. The hightlight of my trials in Egypt was meeting a wonderful mother and her four beautiful daughters. They adopted me, and I got to meet the entire extended family. They are the people of Egypt I will remember. Outside of that experience, it has been hard traveling here. And after fighting food poisoning, I was looking forward to leaving. At the airport I wasn't sure if I was going to be allowed to leave. I was interrogated (they called it a security interview), and all of my belongings were individually searched. The whole process took 3 hours, and as a final goodbye I got patted down by a large Egyptian woman. I guess I am the suspicious type.
March 30, 2001 - Tel Aviv/Istanbul/Gallipoli
I shortened my trip in Israel to a few days in Tel Aviv because of the violence. There weren't too many signs of war outside of the security guards and baggage checks at most stores. The cafes, shops, and beaches were full. After having my bags searched AGAIN, I flew to Turkey. I spent 4 days in Istanbul. It is a great city that is split between Europe and Asia. In 3 days I changed continents 10 times. I visited the Blue Mosque, the palace, Aya Sofia, and other sites is Sultanahmet. During a quite cold boat ride up to the Black Sea I got hailed on. I headed west to visit the 5000 year old ruins of Troy (I climbed up the touristy wooden horse) and the WWI ANZAC battlefields at Gallipoli.
April 11, 2001 - Western and Southern Turkey
I have headed down the Aegean coast, and then followed the Mediterean coast to Antalya. I have visited the great ancient cities of Pergamon, Ephesus, and Afrodisias among others. A lot of rocks, but impressive all the same. I spent some time in small towns that I don't think have seen a backpacker in 8 months. In some pensions I was the only guest, and I played a lot of backgamon with the owners. The calcium cascades in Pamukkale were very unique. In Koycegiz I went on a day boat trip that included a mud bath and a dip in a thermal pool. The last few days I have hung out in the backpacker village of Olympos and hiked to natural flames that have been coming out of the rocks for thousands of years.
April 25, 2001 - Eastern and Northern Turkey
After spending my birthday in Antalya visiting waterfalls and ruins, I headed up to the Cappadocia region. The area is full of the strangest geology I have ever seen. I visited the eight level underground city, and walked in a few valleys full of ferry chimneys. I headed east into a few areas empty of tourists. I had many stares and people took pictures of the stranger in their town. I went to Mt. Nemrut full of big heads on a mountian, and Trabzon on the black sea coast. The BIG new is - ITS A GIRL! Clara Carter Harrison was born on Easter, and I am now an aunt.
May 10, 2001 - Athens and Switzerland
I arrived in Athens on the day of a general strike (no buses, ferries, or trains) - just keeps things interesting for me. I spent three days wondering around the city - the Acropolis, Pnyx, and the site of the next olymipcs. I then headed to Switzerland where I met up with a friend from California. The town we stayed in had no cars, lots of hiking trails, waterfalls, and great views. What else do you need?
May 13, 2001 - Lisbon and Madrid
Estoy aqui en Espana. Como tapas por la cena ayer por la tarde. Quiero queso. Voy corrida de toros la noche - el matador, la espada, el toros. Esta la Feria do San Isisdro en Madrid. Grande la fiesta con el bailer y la musica. Me gusta viajar. (�Donde esta la biblioteca?). Hasta pronto.
May 31, 2001 - Reston, Virginia USA
I am back in the States. I spent two more amazing weeks in the Swiss Alps to finish my trip. I paraglided, hiked, and met some great fellow travelers. Since I have been home, I have met my niece and have been hanging out with my family. I have had more than my fair share of salsa, homemade strawberry jam, and cereal. Yum. I am already planning my next journey. Until then...take care.
June 12, 2001 - Bakersfield, California
I am home.
Next stop - Nepal? Africa? South America?