Week 36 - Y2 (Nov 5th to Nov 11th)
Sunday Nov 5th, Ugh. This week has left me hurting. When all of us were sufficiently awake, we went across the street from Ry and Lindsey's apartment for some samgyeopsal-- this place had the coolest side dishes! There was this egg soup/custard stuff that with the samgyeopsal (pork barbecue) tasted like the closest one can get to eggs and bacon in Korean cuisine. Nice! We also started discussing our trip this winter in some more detail. Ry and Linz will be coming from Malaysia to Thailand, and we're going to meet in Bangkok a few days before Christmas. Ryan has a Thai cousin-in-law who's going to help show us around (and also make sure that I don't die from the peanuts!), and then we're going to head down to the islands for some Christmas/New Year's fun in the sun. After that, we'll bus into Cambodia to check out Angkor Wat, the huge and beautiful complex of temples. From there Ry and Linz are going to go to Laos, but since my time is a little more limited, I'll go to Vietnam on my own, or possibly with Jenny and Annabelle, depending on their schedule. I'm really excited, but there are so many details that we have to take care of-- hostels, flights, buses, visas, border crossings, vaccination shots, just-in-case medicine, money . . . it's overwhelming! But still, I'm just thankful for the chance to get to do a trip like this at all!
Monday Nov 6th, I took my two Iksan jazz choirs out for samgyeopsal today. Good god, they made me eat so much, I thought I was going to die! Everything's always "professor first". It was nice to see them in a relaxed social environment, although one of the boys has such a ridiculous crush on me that it's getting a little stupid. It's Korean tradition for the oldest person to pay the bill, so I thought that I was going to have to pay for all 16 people, and the way all of them were eating, I was kind of thinking to myself, Oh god, did I even bring enough money with me today? But turns out that they wanted to treat me! Very sweet (and so much better for my bank account!)
Wednesday Nov 8th, Had another kind of strange gig today, with Jae, Won Sool and Saoh (Ben is in Canada right now). The gig was in the late afternoon at some swanky club in the rich area, and it was some kind of social club for rich people who use their Hyundai credit cards too much. So Hyundai rewards them by providing different lectures/events every week that are geared towards making them look smarter to their rich friends/more culturally in the know. So this week was "Let's learn about jazz" while geting drunk off of good wine and eating good hors d'ouvres in the afternoon. Fortunately, Jae was the one who had to do the "lecture", so I just had to sing a few tunes (granted they were my most hated standards EVER! "Fly Me to the Moon" should be banned from all jazz clubs). However, the 4 songs that I sang earned me 300,000 won. Somehow Jae always gets the weirdest and best-paying gigs, not that I'm complaining or anything. It's certainly not hurting my wallet.
Thursday Nov 9th, Werner, my friend and former funk band drummer is leaving Korea to return to South Africa on Saturday. Since he's never really checked out Seoul, he asked last weekend if he could stay at my place this weekend and do some touristy stuff. Of course I agreed. After work, I went to meet him at the express bus station, where he was coming in from Daegu. But the frickin place is a maze and it took us forever to find each other! This was made even more difficult by the fact that Werner doesn't have his cell phone anymore, and had to keep on calling from pay phones. After about 45 minutes, we finally managed to locate each other, got in a taxi, lugged his suitcases up my stairs, and went to a local pub for a snack/drink.
Friday Nov 10th, We didn't quite make it up as early as we intended today . . . When we were finally ready to go, we headed over to the National Museum, which I had never been to either. It's huge! It reminds of one of those Russian dolls that keeps on opening up to reveal another one. Our main purpose for going was to see a travelling exhibit of artwork that's on loan from the Louvre-- mostly French baroque and classical work, quite interesting. We then checked out some more of the museum-- Indonesian artwork, findings from cave temples in the Middle East. But the museum is just too damn big; there was no way we could have seen it all in one day. So finally around 5pm, we just gave up! After the museum, I took Werner to Insadong, my personal favourite, for some shopping/browsing. I found this little vendor that has all kinds of hilarious Korean television star paraphenalia-- socks with soap opera star faces printed on them, notebooks, playing cards, calendars, Hello Kitty dolls in traditional Korean dress. They were so kitsch, I couldn't resist buying some stuff to give as presents. I also couldn't resist buying "kimchi chocolate"-- whoever gets that in their Christmas stocking is going to be very lucky . . . ha ha! We also stumbled into this really cool Andy Warhol-themed art installation in a courtyard. There were umbrellas hanging everywhere that were silkscreened with Warhol's face, tons of pop art inspired by Warhol, so on. Werner wanted his last Korean meal to be galbi, so we found a nice traditional restaurant in Insadong, and had a nice traditional meal next to a table of very drunken businessmen, hence adding to the authentic Korean-ness of the meal. We were about to leave the Insadong area when we kind of wandered into this performance-- a traditional Korean drummer, a trumpet player, a traditional Korean folk singer, and a percussionist/dancer. It was very jam-oriented, fusing traditional Korean styles with other Easter music styles, as well as some West African stuff, and jazz stuff. It was really cool! The thing that I love most about cities is being able to randomly wander into something like that-- would this have happened in Daegu? Not too likely! When the performance was over, I took Werner to Bar Nana in Itaewon, where the music was not as enthralling, but it was fun nonetheless (The bar staff apparently realized sometime between tonight and the last time that I was there that it's a good idea to have locks on the bathroom doors-- a step in the right direction. Now if only all Korean bathrooms could have things like soap and toilet paper . . .)
Saturday Nov 11th, Once again, didn't quite make it up as early as we had intended . . . we had been planning to see one of the palaces and the war museum before Werner had to leave for the airport, but we got such a late start that we ended up having to choose one-- the War Museum. Werner really liked it, although it's a bit of a dark way to leave Korea behind, I suppose. And then it was off to the airport. Once again, I absolutely hate goodbyes. I hate that there's a bigger chance of never seeing Werner again than of seeing him. Although it would be cool to visit South Africa . . . Tonight, Charlotte, Katie, Jenny B. and Nicolla came up from Daegu. I met them after dinner to go hang out in the Hongdae area. Nicolla and Jenny wanted a party night, so we went to this bar, Tin Pan, which was absolutely insane tonight. It was overwhelmingly packed, and I almost felt like I was in the midst of a "Girls gone wild" video, except the guys had gone equally as wild. One Korean guy actually jumped up onto the bar and started doing a striptease. Tin Pan turned out to be a little too much party . . . we left, and ended up at an eighties bar, just for laughs. The place was really weird-- first of all, it was virtually empty. Yet, the waitress kind of had a hate-on for us right away, and was incredibly rude to us, despite the fact that we were almost her only customers. When we were dancing, the staff just kind of stood around and glared at us, like they were worried we were going to do something crazy. I felt like I was at a junior high dance or something. But here's the crowning moment-- there were two older Korean men and an older Korean woman at the table next to ours, and we started chatting with them. They were really sweet and wanted to continue talking to us. But the waitress saw this, got pissed off and threw us out of the bar! I have never been kicked out of anywhere in my life . . . I've also never really experienced such direct racism in my life. It still makes me angry to think about it. Anyway, in the eighties club, we unfortunately, and much to our dismay picked up a hanger-on, who decided to pretend like he was our best friend, despite the fact that we'd known him about 30 seconds and hadn't shown much interest either. He ended up following us to the next bar, Club Funky Funky, where it took us most of the night to get rid of him. There must be something in the air tonight-- Funky Funky was equally as insane as the first bar, with obscene drunkeness all around us. However, the music was good, and the dj took requests, so Jenny and I stayed til 5:30am, and the rest of the girls didn't leave until 10am!
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