This entry was posted on 2001-04-16
Kyoto and Hiroshima
Don't even ask...
Yeah, don't worry, I'll explain.
First things first though. Last night I updated from Osaka. If you read this everyday, you probably know that Osaka is not my favorite Japanese city. In fact, I often use the words "ugly," "rude," and "hate" to describe my feelings toward this city. In fact, I wanted to leave my study abroad program mid-semester and go off and live in Tokyo, I hated Osaka so much (I lived halfway between Osaka and Kyoto. I've always considered Kyoto my "home"). But last night I actually had a good Osaka experience.
You're probably wondering why I decided to go to Osaka (especially if you read this). Well, I was really fucken hungry, and Osaka is known for its food. No joke. Osakans love to eat. And they take their food really seriously. Besides, Osaka has a much wider variety than Kyoto. Since I'm both a vegetarian and a picky eater, it isn't easy to find food in Japan. I know of some really great restaurants in Osaka and I decided to go back and see if I could find them again.
Although I have a JR pass, I took the Keihan for old times sake. The train goes to Yodayobashi-eki in Osaka. From there I transferred to the Osaka subway (Midosuji line) to Umeda, one of Osaka's liveliest areas.
I found one of my favorite Italian restaurants in Osaka and decided to eat there. It would be good food, guaranteed. And besides, for Italian cuisine, this place can be considered "cheap." Yeah! Good cheap food!
The meal was amazing. Probably one of the best I've had this time around in Japan. It really lifted my spirits and I decided to go out and re-experience Umeda at night.
I didn't really do anything but walk around. I walked past pachinko parlors, karaoke rooms, video game arcades, bars, restaurants, etc. All of it was so familiar but so different. Different because this time I enjoyed my walk around Umeda. I loved hearing Osaka-ben being spoken. I loved watching the "down to Earth" people of Osaka do what they enjoy the most: play and eat. And I loved seeing the neon (though again, not as bright as Tokyo).
I hurried to the station (this time JR) to catch the last train back to Kyoto, smiling because I managed to have a blast out in Osaka.
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Today was supposed to be my day of temple hopping around Kyoto. "Supposed to" becomes the key phrase, though. First I headed to Kyomizu-dera, one of Kyoto's famous temples. There was some sort of special event going on, so I couldn't really walk around. But it was cool because I arrived early enough in the morning to hear the monks chanting (though I couldn't see anything, I just heard it all from a building).
After exploring (as much as I could) Kyomizu-dera, I headed off to my favorite temple in all of Japan: Ginkaku-ji (my favorite shrine is Udo-jingu, in Miyazaki-ken). Last time I visited Ginkaku-ji (in the autumn), the fall colors were splendid. This time (obviously) there were no fall colors. No sakura either. As an "added bonus" this time, there were a shitload of tourists. Great. Just walking the path up the mountain became a hassle. The tourists (mainly non-Japanese) would stop right in the middle of the path and film or photograph something. I almost fucken fell over laughing because I saw an American woman filming the sign that pointed toward the toilet. In her spoken commentary, she was talking about how beautiful the Japanese signs are. Ha! She obviously didn't know (because she couldn't read it) that she was commenting on the loveliness of the toilet sign! I almost said something, but I didn't want to be a major bitch. Besides, I (along with some Japanese schoolchildren) were enjoying the sight waaaay too much!
After I dealt with about as many tourists as I possibly could, I figured I'd go to Fushimi Inari, this lovely shrine in southern Kyoto with torii gates going all the way up the mountain. I got on a bus headed for a Keihan station (Keihan stops right in front of Fushimi Inari). I must've fallen asleep on the bus (it happens), because the next thing I knew, I was at the end of the route, at Kyoto station. Fine. Fuck Fushimi Inari (I wasn't about to backtrack). I have seen it many times. And besides, I am sure the tourists had found their way to Fushimi by then. It was only noon. I had the whole day ahead of me. Without even thinking about it, I reserved a seat on a shinkansen (yeah for JR passes) to my old favorite city in Japan: Hiroshima.
At Shin-Osaka (Osaka's shinkansen terminal), I transferred to the spanking new Hikari Rail Star shinkansen! Ahhhh, a new shinkansen! Heaven for me! The train had a new smell to it. The seats were much wider. And I somehow ended up in the "silent car," a car with no announcements so that you can peacefully enjoy your journey. I was loving it. Of course the plain old Hikari will always be my shin-baby (hehe), but this new Rail Star was pretty damn cool.
Although it was tempting to stay on longer (but that would have brought me to northern Kyushu, not good), I did exit at Hiroshima, mah city!
I walked around the peace park a bit. (If you want to read more about me, Hiroshima, and the A-bomb dome, you can read this) I decided to forgo the museum since I had been there sooooo many times, and for me, that can be emotionally draining. Visiting the Children's Memorial was hard for me because this time I didn't plan ahead and bring cranes. Oh well. I think that I've already made more cranes for Hiroshima than most other travelers.
Hiroshima was refreshing. I needed to just be there for a while. I love that city. After leaving the Peace Park and hitting the shopping area, I left "mah city" feeling refreshed. I can always use a good dose of Hiroshima! The people there are so lovely.
Tomorrow I have train tickets to Shikoku! Yea! After tomorrow I can officially say that I've been to all 4 of the major islands of Japan! And I also plan to go to that famous garden in Okayama. It seems like a certain Japanese professor has influenced me in strange ways...
I'll be sure to report on Shikoku and Okayama. Until tomorrow... mata ashita!