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In addition to clothes, hair styles are an important indicator of who
ou are and the cult to which you belong. The wartime spivs, the teddy boys
and the mods each had their own distinctive hair style. The hard mods had
lready taken to cropped hair by 1964 and the style was taken further by
the skinheads, giving rise to their own name of peanuts and other names
such as lemons, spy kids and no-heads. "Skinhead" had already been used
to describe the US marines, but a skinhead crop is not a crew cut, which
is close cut at the sides and flat on the top. The length of the cut is
controlled by the thickness of the white plastic clip-on guard of the
barber's electric razor. There are four thicknesses of guard, with number
one giving the shortest crop and number four the longest. Partings could
be shaved into the crop from front to crown. Again, this feature was
copied from the West Indians who used it as part of their own hairstyles.
Some skin went further than the number one crop and had a "dark shadow",
but at this time they were never bald. When long hair was the trademark of
the hippyand the dropout, it is
to be expected that an anti-hippy movement should adopt short hair. A
crop, however, has other benefits. If you get in fight, short hair is an
advantage since your opponent cannot grasp it. It has another practical
benefit in that it is easy to keep clean and to wash. It is also easy
to manage when you are working. Moustaches and beards were rarely seen
on skins; shaving was obligatory and stubble not accepted. However, some
skinheads had long side-burns terminating at the lower jaw. Hair style varied
over time. In the early days, the crop was fairly
short; the number one crop came into fashion, giving skins the nearly
bald look. By late 1969, the length had increased, giving rise to a new
name. The suede head had hair at least one and a half inches long. It
was neatly combed, parted to the side and style. By 1971, hair had grown
to collar length and the final phase came in as the smooth. The name
came both from the general appearance and from a certain make of shoe
with pattern free surface. Although the smoothes looked nothing like
their skinhead predecessors, they were the same kids extending the
fashion. Generally, short hair is associated in the public mind with convicts,
prison camp inmates and the military. It was exactly this mean look
which the skins wishes to cultivate.