Steve Hudson's "Green Popper"

Hook Sized to suit
Thread Green to match foam, or tan (Absolutely not critical)
Tail

Any "buggy" looking feather. I use several dyed barred feathers from a nondescript patch I've had around for a while, they give good action in the water.
Body Foam strip (be sure it's closed cell foam)
Underbody

Some sort of shaggy chenille, open-wound from back to front, with fibers sticking out slightly from the body. You can also use a webby feather palmered for similar effect.
Eyes (optional)

These are of fabric paint. Test on a scrap of foam first, as some paint/foam combos don't bond well. Alternatively, paint the eye area with nail polish first, then apply the eyes.

Directions:

  1. Start thread and tie in tail material.
  2. Move thread to the rear of shank, just in front of tail.
  3. Cut the foam strip and poke a hole in the middle. Strip should be 1/4" to 3/8" wide, depending on the underbody material, and 3" long.
  4. Slip the foam strip over the hook, all the way to the back, and bind down with about eight turns of thread -- don't use too much tension or you'll cut the foam.
  5. Tie in the chenille at the back of the shank.
  6. Wrap the chenille to the front of the hook and tie off.
  7. Fold top and bottom of foam over and bind down with about eight turns, move thread to front of "lips", place three or four more turns, and tie off and trim thread.
  8. Cut "lips" to a length about even with the tip of the hook eye. You can fine tune the fly's action by trimming the lips. Trimming the bottom lip affects the splash; trimming the top lip tends to make the fly dive.
  9. Optional: Apply eyes. They have no real impact on the fishing, but they look neat!

Fishing Tips

Drop it close to cover, give a single pop and let  it sit. Alternately, work it in short jerks. Try varied retrieves to see what works. Keep the rod low and pointed toward the fly as you fish it; that'll help you set the hook with that four pounder blows up and nails it!

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