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Went to Cape Spear where we saw a humpback whale in the inlet and stood at the most easterly point in North America. Met the daughter of the last lighthouse keeper who regaled us with fond memories of time spent there. Her name is Dolores Cantwell Withers and she was there with her son Chris. She had some interesting tales to tell about how all of the children were trained to turn on the fog horn, playing in buckets of mercury, climbing up and down the rocks, being homeschooled there until age 14. About the American soldiers there whose families sent them frilly dresses during the war when the American were stationed right there at the Lighthouse. There was a whole Unit there, and when they pulled out they burnt everything Army related to the ground. Only the gun batteries are left. She told us that she never went back to the old lighthouse after they built the new facility to live in. She looks back very fondly on the years she lived there and often comes to visit. Her family had been the keepers for generations. Her family and her Uncle�s lived at the Lighthouse. As we spoke with her, the fog crept in and the horn sounded. I actually managed to walk up the hill to the lighthouses and back down again without breaking a bone, spraining anything or running out of breath! Saw signs pointing the way to Petty Harbour on the way to Cape Spear. We�ll follow them another day.
Ate at Pasta Plus again and missed the opening of the festival. Guess I�ll hear the Ode to Newfoundland another time. Vic dropped Karen and I and our chairs off at the park and went to meet Ken and his wife, finally. They went to the waterfront to talk. We stayed a little bit at the Folk Festival. Ron Hynes was a little too country for Karen and I. We left early and went back to the hotel as the bugs were biting full force and we had forgotten the bug spray.

August 5, 2000 Saturday

Breakfast with Ken and Diane at the Heritage on Duckworth. At Diane�s suggestion I tried toutons (toe tons), a slab of pan-fried bread dough with molasses. The molasses was a bit strong and it tasted fine with nothing on it. Not vegetarian, though since it�s fried in pork fat. Diane also recommends Jig�s Dinner for supper, a meal of salt meat and boiled root vegetables.

Turns out we spent the day together with Ken and Diane. Went on a tour through the Quidi Vidi section of town. You can�t believe this place is practically in the heart of the city and looks like an outport! Went to Cabot Tower finally. We asked why all the digging was going on and were told that three tectonic plates merge here and they were building an exhibit center to do something with that fascinating fact. Boy, the stuff I don't know!

It was funny at Cabot tower since Ken�s relatives kept coming up with neighbors or other relatives. Felt like we met the whole family! We got the Ham Radio operator�s tour of the tower and talked about Marconi and the special celebration of his success next year in St. John�s. Loved the view of the city from that vantagepoint. We went to the Fluvarium. Really neat exhibit on habitats. Schoolteachers must love to take their classes there. We saw into the pond at the fishes� level. Got some pictures.

Ken and Diane invited us to their house for fresh trout dinner cooked on the BBQ. Ken�s Aunt Ruby joined the crew at dinner. It was wonderful, of course. Played with their dogs, Dixie and Cassie, two Cocker Spaniels. Really enjoyed the day with Ken and Diane. Breakfast turned into an all day affair. Not bad for being �kidnapped� for the day by a couple Newfoundlanders you just met! The people we have met on this island have been beyond compare!

We missed Atlantic Union�s set at the Festival, but would not have traded the time we spent with Ken and family for anything! Vic bought me the CD they had just released two days ago. I really like it � it is definitely Fidlerized. Heard the Punters for the first time. Alan�s fashion sense is catching on. The singer had on orange pants and a black top! Their fiddler was quite good! They did a set like GBS � part trad, part new � very dancey. Another CD bought.

Karen has informed us that St. John�s is her third favorite city, after Philly and Boston. Can�t wait for tomorrow night�s festival.

August 6, 2000 Sunday

Had breakfast with Mimi and Gerry this morning. They are leaving today for Argentia to take tomorrow�s ferry. It is our last evening in St. John�s. I feel a little sad already.

Today was a music day! Saw a little nine-year-old girl playing the fiddle at the festival. Oh my goodness! Was she amazing! She started out a little nervous but then just enjoyed playing for the crowd. Some of the adult performers came out of their tent and came over to listen. A group at the adult stage was doing some trad songs and we plopped our stuff down pretty far in front. This caused us to recognize a performer the next day. Vic stayed for the storytellers and I went back to the children�s stage. A family of young ladies played and sang very well. One of the girls who was 12 even wrote and performed a composition of her own! They all played instruments � keyboard, sax, flute, harmonica, and rhythm instruments. It was great!

Went back to the adult stage to watch the dancers from the Burin Peninsula and Vic and Karen left to catch the Titanic exhibit downtown. The teenage dancers were tireless and had to know a whole lot of steps. It wasn�t actually a square dance, but almost.

The fiddle session was next with six fiddlers ranging in age from 40�s to teens. They each played a solo piece and then went around again for another round but this time anyone who knew the tune joined in. Oh, I found out the difference between a song and a tune. Hadn�t known the difference till today. A song has words, a tune doesn�t. The harmonies played on those fiddles were something else! Everyone on stage except the Walsh guy was or is a student of Kelly Russell, who is or was a member of Tickle Harbour and/or the Irish Descendants. Most of the songs I heard today were announced from being from Placentia Bay. I wonder where the other songs are? There HAVE to be Conception Bay songs, etc. Only one song was from Baie Verte? (bay verdee). Lots of Emile Benoit and Rufus Guinchard. I think I�ve heard 6 Auntie Marys, a million versions of the Mermaid song (which Vic taught me when I was 17), learned that Emile wrote tunes for all of the influential politicians of the day. Nice way to get your music played, eh?