Tech Specs:
Monday 3 March, Pago Pago Faleolo Samoa 80 nm 0.7 hours
After a few days in Pago Pago the locals convinced me that I should really go to Samoa, saying that is where they go on their vacations. The plan was to depart for Samoa on Monday
So after trying to do the right thing and organising a clearance from the Samoan Ministry of Transport (a bit of a heroic feat to apply and receive a clearance from the Samoan government the same day I wanted to fly given the factor of Samoan Time). Waiting at the Pago Pago airport and calling the Ministry of Transport Samoa every hour or so to see how the clearance was coming and being assured each time that it was just about ready to fax. About 4 pm I decided I better call again only to get the night watchman who said I am sorry sir but everyone has gone home maybe try again tomorrow. Having spent about 7 hours entertaining myself at the Pago Pago airport (no easy feat!) I made the executive decision to just get in the airplane and fly to Samoa and deal with the consequences later.
The short trip to Faleolo airport on the north end of Upolo island in Samoa was uneventful. The only issue is because most of the international flights arrive in the middle of the night I was unable to locate any immigration or customs officals at the airport. Now truly being an illegal, no clearance in hand, no immigration, no customs I decided I might as well continue with the stealth mission and just grab a taxi from the airport and go into the main town of Apia for a couple of days.
Apia is a bustling town with a lot of old colonial architure and a few lingering expats hanging out in the pubs (mostly Polynesian Air pilots left over from the days when the airline was run by Ansett, US Peace Core workers and the odd tourist). It turned out the small hotel I stayed in was located right beside the Ministry of Transport so the next day I went in and picked up my clearance to fly to Samoa in person. After two days in the big smoke of Apia I decided to check out the big island of Savaii, a short ferry trip from Upoulo.
Savaii turned out to be a great spot, very laid back, very traditionally Samoan, nice beaches and even better very inexpensive. People in Samoa live in Fale houses (open thatched buildings) really the ultimate in open plan living. A nice fale on the beach in Savaii including breakfast and fantastic seafood dinners will set you back about 50 tala (~US$15) per night. Where I stayed, Janes Beach fales also had a german run dive operation next door but the weather turned out to be too rough for diving.
Samoa is a great place, very laid back and definetly worth a return visit, but after 5 days it was time to get on the road once again and head for Niue.
Unfortunately no pictures are possible due to limitations on the sytem here. Maybe next time.
JB
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