Well we thought that as it was coming up to another Monday morning, it was about time to update you on our antics over the past 8 days.
When we last wrote, we were in Jaipur in India, it was hot, there was generally a bit of a whiff in the air and we were moaning. How things have changed.
After Jaipur we went to Agra (via a non-event of a bird sanctuary) and saw the Taj Mahal. Having seen 57 temples, mosques and other monuments already in India coupled with the fact that we had to get up at 5.30am, we really weren't expecting that much but I have to say it was pretty amazing (amd pleasantly hassle free). Definitely worth a visit. Took lots of photos, including all the cheesey ones.
Later that day, we embarked on our first train journey of the trip. What an experience! I kmew it would not be the lap of luxury but with only one seat between us the prospect of a 12 hour train journey was prettty grim. Things didn't get better once we boarded the train. If the sandstorm which decided to kick off as soon as we left Agra wasn't enough we also had:
(i) A brawl, two "compartments" down from us - fisticuffs and everything!
(ii)15 people in our compartment - nominally supposed to accomodate 8 people.
(iii) A seat which was actually a plank covered in blue lino - not comfortable or a good sweat absorber
(iv) Relentless heat
(v) Having the closest possible seat to the onboard "toilet" - lovely views ... and smells.
(vi) oh .... and the small matter of a convicted rapist/murderer (well some sort of prisoner anyway) who was chained to about 15 armed Indian policemen amd was standing right next to Tessa's head - very sleep condusive!
So anyway having slipped the train conductor a few US dollars, we ended up with a seat each - and actually got some sleep before arriving 14 hours later in Varanasi.
In Varanasi, we did the traditional sunrise (5am) boat tour of the Ganges which was really interesting and actually not as manky as we though it would be - although don't get us wrong, there were still raw sewage pipes wantenly pumping their contents directly into the river so we decided against a holy dip. The locals however obviously love it.
The next 2 days were spent primarily on buses which, if possible were even less comfortable than the train, and took us from Varanasi up to Sonauli on the India/Nepal border and on to Pokhara, Nepal's second city and the starting point for 90% of the most popular trekking routes.
Nepal, is so different to India in so many ways. Its greener, cooler (although still 30 degrees), hillier, cleaner, much less hassle, has friendlier people who aren't as obviously taking you for a ride and is generally more chilled out. Much more what we were looking for when we started our trip.
Today we have booked a three day white water rafting trip (apparently the last of the season before the water level gets too high) starting the day after tomorrow and a 10 day trek in the Annapurna Sanctuary after that before heading for a couple of days in Kathmandu.
That's about it really. Hope all is well with all of you and once again thanks for all your emails, quite funny hearing about the crap weather at home!
Love to you all
T&J xxx
P.S. If this is all a bit much, and you can't face any more Monday morning emails like this, you can unsubscribe from this newsletter by sending an email to "[email protected]"
Mum (Rose) / Will - Sorry to hear about the car dilemnas, hope it sorts itself out.
Mum & Dad (Morris) - Hope you enjoyed the sound of my voice last night - it cost me 14 quid so you'd better have!
M,D,R & S - Have fun in America
Claire H - Good luck with your wedding!
Claire/Soph - Thanks for the Sacred Valley Inn recommendation - very nice!
Leon - No earthquakes here I'm afraid - although there have been some fairly powerful eruptions of other kinds - perhaps it was one of those that you felt in Cuzco!?
James - I hope the toe is feeling better - chipped toenails are very sore I hear!
Tim - Any luck with a new job ... or is this now just a sit back and take stock phase?!