аЯрЁБс>ўџ QSўџџџPџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџьЅС №Пѓ1bjbjрр &f‚j‚jѓ-џџџџџџlфффффффјіііі  јFЖpŠŠŠŠџџџХЧЧЧЧЧЧ$ќ žыфџešџџџыџффŠŠл џџџџфŠфŠХџџХџЦџХффХŠ  w+эš(ФјўіџХХ0FХКџКХџјјффффйVW Hella DE Foglights Installing from scratch Hey, you are in luck. I just did exactly that.  HYPERLINK "http://www.rsip.lsu.edu/tom/images/golf-fog-install-light-switch.jpg"  HYPERLINK "http://www.rsip.lsu.edu/tom/images/golf-fog-install-lamps.jpg" There are some places that sell the factory light Hella kits (w/o the OEM foglight capable switch for the dash). Autotech I think is one of them. The problem I ran into was that everytime I called, the lights were backordered and wouldn't be in for another couple of weeks, or they were on the next shipment, etc. I finally got tired of it and was able to talk my dealers parts department into a 20% discount (you should see the markup on their parts - I glanced in the deal price book once, a part costing them 130 was sold for 240!). This made my personally constructed kit maybe 40 bucks more expensive than the $319 for the Hella kits available through VW Tuner mailorder, but at least I now have the lights IN THE CAR. You can order all of the parts, connectors at the dealership except for the wire and the tape, which is used to redo the front wiring harness to add the fog light wires to the harness which does not have them. Installing the lights themselves is as easy as it could be, that took all of 10 minutes. The relay pops right into the spot on the relay panel under the dash, easy too. The hardest part is putting the wiring in the engine compartment.  HYPERLINK "http://www.rsip.lsu.edu/tom/images/golf-fog-install-fuse-relays.jpg" This is a view up into the fuse panel from that "conviniently" located door under the drivers side dash. I must say the old A2 method of removing the little tray cover was better (and you got some storage!). You can simplify the wiring if you want to run it sloppy outside the harness and tap into the appropriate wire that carries the power from the firewall - this will make the installation easy, but not as beautiful or elegant. Here is what I did:  HYPERLINK "http://www.rsip.lsu.edu/tom/images/golf-fog-install-harnes-location.jpg" The foglight power comes through the gray-yellow cable via the light switch and relay (once they have been added inside the car) to the harness connector behind the top of the radiator (the big round one that can be unscrewed). To get to the connector, remove the plastic cover over it by unscrewing the 3 bolts with an 8mm socket screwdriver or wrench.  HYPERLINK "http://www.rsip.lsu.edu/tom/images/golf-fog-install-harnes-connector.jpg" In cars without foglights, the connection opposite it, that is the part on the right side of the car, doesn't have a wire comming out there. If you unscrew the harness connector, the part in your left hand (on the right side of the car) is the harness that connects to all of the headlights, turn signals, parking lights and horns on the front of the car. You can unplug all of the connectors from these lights from within the engine compartment, except for the side markers, which must be very carefully pried out of the side bumpers and disconnected from outside the fender. The horns can also be unplugged from within the engine compartment. The easiest approach is to unplug them as you get to them, starting with the left side of the car (the horns are on the right side). The harness is held in place by the radiator and under the headlights by loop clips that can be pulled open gently and the cable removed there are at least 8 or so of these, plus there are metal clips under the headlights that also clip the wire into place; again gently pry open with fingers and pull cable out. The only problems are that there are two plastic pins taped to the cable that push into holes on either of the sides towards the bottoms of the fender areas (near the turn-signal and side marker lights). You can pull theses out - it requires some strenght to do; be carefull - but it will come out. When replacing the harnes, you will be able to push these back into the holes and they will hold. The only real problem I ran into was that on my 94 Golf, the second (low tone) horn was not instaled and that second horn wire and plug on the right side of the car was tie-wrapped to the front lower fender area. I could feel the tie-wrap when I stuck my hand through the opening made by removing the front reflectors, and turn signals in the front right bumper. I CAREFULLY!! cut mine open with a small box knife and later installed a new tie wrap there - a real pain, your hand is in where you cannot see and you must feel everything with your fingertips: you may be able to not retie the wire if you want or tie it to a more easily accesible place. I left my 2nd horn connector dangling as I am persuing VW to actually get me the damn horn that should be installed there! Once the harnes is out (and you are all sweaty and grimy), you should have a nice long octopuss of wires and connectors, 9 connectors in all - 2 headlight (blue), 2 side marker and 2 turn signal (black), one each on the left and right sides (based on the big harness connector being in the middle), and the 2 horn connectors on the right side. Take the harnes inside to a table, get some 16 or 18 gauge wire and some FRICTION TAPE (that is the cloth type tape the harness-cable is taped up with. I got the wire and tape at AutoZone; Western Auto didn't have the tape. I used yellow for the power to and black for the return ground. To do this absolutely proper you will now need a sharp box-cutter knife, a soldering iron & solder, wire stripper, and if you really want to be professional some heat-shrink tubing. Unwrape the tape from one side of the harness (the left side - the one without the horn connectors) so that all of the wires are exposed from the center through the headlight connector. You do NOT need to unwrape the branch that forks off of the main to the side marker/turn signal connectors. There will be some conduit-plastic-tubing type of stuff that you remove; save it for later reinstallation. You can toss out the tape you pull off. I put the fog light plug off of the headlight plugs. That said, leave about 5 inches of length beyond the headlight plug and run youre yellow wire back to the main big connector - taping down with electical tape every foot or two -depending on how much it bulges away from the other wires - until it is 5 or so inches past the big connector - cut that piece off. Now start at the headlight connector again and run the yellow wire all the way accross to the other headlight connector and 5 inches beyond it (I'm not definite on the excess lenght - check how far the space from the headlight to the fog light is - extra can always be tied up, you just don't want to end up short). Cut that piece off. Now: on the left side you have to connect the two yellow foglight wires by cutting away a piece of the insulation several inches into the wire from the left end, use the box knife. Then solder the long yellow wire to the short yellow wire at this point on the short yellow wire. Tape up with electrical tape or use heat-shrink. You will see that VW uses heat-shrink tubing to do this kind of connection on the harness to combine the brown ground return wires as they feed back into the big connector. Now cut off a foot or so piece of black wire and attatch it to the brown ground return wire on the headlight set of 2 wires about 5 inches or so back from the headlight connector in the same way ( you want the yellow and black wires to be the same length off of the headlight wire. Now begin and retape the harnes with friction tape, taping up the foglight and headlight wire pairs seperately up to just before the spot where the ground return junction is (where you connected the black to the brown wire), and there combind the two sets into one cable of 3 wires. Continue taping up untill you get just past the point were the side marker lights join in. From a bit down the side marker/turn signal strand (which should not be unwrapped) start and wrap the rest of the wires together back into a single cable (try to make the joints (combining of wire groups) where they were when you unwrapped them). once you get to the harness, stop. Now , the one yellow wire (short) should end there and can be cut to the correct length and have the connector spade crimped and soldered (for better hold since I don't have the correct crimp tool) to the yellow wire and inserted into the proper hole (opposite the gray-yellow vw wire - I think it is spot 5 or there about in the connector). Run the yellow remaining wire down to the right side harness to the headlight plug by now unwrapping that half of the wire harness, soldering on a piece of black wire for the return ground (to the brown return ground near the headlight connector) in the same way we just did for the left side. Again tape up the harness from the headlight end all the way back to the center connector, now combining the two halves into one big cable for the last couple of inches (as it originally was). Remember to put the plastic conduit tube back over the taped up harnes and tape it down at it's ends. You can now cut to equal length, the respective yellow/black pairs at the left and right ends, strip and crimp/solder them to their respective recepticle pins and insert the pins and wires into the foglight connectors. You can buy the rubber inserts that go over the wires and into the connectors to fill the space around the wires - I used hot glue since I couldn't get 1.5 mm wire and used 16 gauge. Now tape the two nylon (white) pin connectors back on the far ends of the wire harness with electrical tape; if you remember where they go; if you don't remember - you can tape them on when you get to them when reinstalling the harness. Test the harness with a continuity tester or ohm meter. The two yellow wires connector pins should be connected electrically as well as to the appropriate pin in the main connector. Similarly the black connector pins should be connected and those also to the brown ground return pin in the main connector. Go back to the car and reinstall the wire harness in the reverse to how you pulled it out. It could be easier to get those nylon pins at each end ligned up if you tape them to the cable with electrical tape when you see where they are supposed to go. I plugged the center connector in first and then worked the harnes back into the retaining clips from the middle to the right side of the car first, then from the center to the left. As each set of lights was plugged in, I'd check their operation briefly and then continue (ie side markers, turn signals and then headlights). Once the harness is back in place, screw the cover back over the connector at the top of the radiator with the 3 screws. Now test out the fog light - they should only come on with headlights on and the headlights are on low beam - this is how the VW light switch in my car is wired. Done! Enjoy. Now all you have to do is aim them properly so they don't blind traffic - if used as driving lights (you need a torx screwdriver). If set up as foglights - ie high-beam type of setup - DON'T use them unless it's foggy, you will blind oncomming traffic. Questions/Comments? If there is interest, I may add figures and be more precise for these instructions and post them to the faq. I could add pictures from my installtion to an online guide. Let me know what you think. At $330-400 for the parts or kit this option isn't for everyone. The VW kit for $150 or so that mounts in the underside of the bumper and not in the factory DE positions is cheaper and easier to install, but is not as clean of an installation and for some reason requires an aditional relay.  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