How to Carve a Calf's Head
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Recipes -- Carving a Calf's Head

"CALF'S HEAD

It is a far cry from the service of the boar's head in its ceremonious banquet role to the lowly, economical, but ever so tasty calf's head. Still that is the nearest approximation the modern carver can or probably wishes to make of a romantic tradition famed in English history and literature. Yet the calf's head has other virtues beyond mere historical associations, because it is both an inexpensive dish and a great favorite with seasoned gourmets, which is a rare combination. The two elements no doubt contribute their share toward the fact that it is such a famous stand-by of the culinary wise French, whose sense of economy is just as fully developed as their sense of taste. The only real obstacle confronting the enthusiast of the dish is its scarcity. It is difficult to come by because no 100 percent American meat retailer traffics in heads, and it can only be found in rural sections where local butchering is done, in foreign-quarter markets of larger cities, or on farms. But track it down and a real treat is in store for you.

To carve the head place it on the platter with the face at the right hand, the brains and tongue already removed and on a side plate next to the large platter. The first slices of medium thickness are from left to right in the middle of the fleshy part of the cheek down to the bone from ear to nose and are called the cheek slices. Slice the tongue according to the directions for a beef tongue and serve portions of the brain with a spoon. The gelatinous part around the eye and the eye itself are easily removed by forcing the point of the blade down to the bottom of the socket, the tip slanted toward the center. Cut in a circular movement around the bone.

Every plate should have slices of tongue, a spoonful of brains, and at least one strip of meat. Under the jawbone--and this is very easily slipped out once the meat above it has been removed--there are a few additional strips of lean and very delicate meat."

"How to Carve Meat, Game and Poultry", published in 1941 by the National Live Stock and Meat Board no less.

Here's how a it was done in the olden days (1828).

Cut out slices, observing to pass your knife close into the bone; at the thick part of the neck is situated the throat and sweet-bread, which you should carve a slice of with the other part, that your guest may have a portion of each. If the eye is preferred, which is frequently the case, take it out, cut it in two, send one half to the person who prefers it, and on removing the jaw bone, some lean will be found, if required. The palate, generally esteemed a peculiar delicacy, is situated under the head; this should be divided into small portions, and helped to each person.

>From "`The House Servant's Directory or A Monitor for Private Families: comprising hints on the arrangement and performance of servants' work, with general rules for setting out tables and sideboards in first order; the art of waiting in all its branches; and likewise how to conduct large and small parties with order; with general directions for placing on table all kinds of joints, fish, fowl, &c. with full instructions for cleaning plate, brass, steel, glass, mahogany; and likewise all kinds of patent and common lamps: observations on servants' behavior to their employers; and upwards of 100 various and useful receipts, chiefly compiled for the use of house servant; and identically made to suit the manners and customs of families in the United States., by Robert Roberts, Munroe and Francis, New York, 1828. (Second edition)

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Rafinesque said it best in his Atlantic Journal (published in 1832), "... Every friend of learning has to regret the loss of some past knowledge, of which faint indications or small fragments merely remain..." pp 2.

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