Russian Costume Dolls
Porcelain
Though china dolls can be traced to 1750, they did not become popular until the
1840s. By that time, German factories had begun manufacturing porcelain doll
heads from pressed molds.
These hard-paste porcelain dolls contained kaolin (non-discoloring white china
clay), quartz and feldspar. By 1870, porcelain producers had learned how to
make porcelain paste pour, improving curves and overall smoothness. The
improvement reinforced porcelain’s attraction over bisque, a newly discovered
ceramic mixture that made doll skin look like china.
Porcelain dolls look their best when
created from custom-crafted doll molds, traditionally a time-consuming and
expensive process. Accordingly,
only royalty and the wealthy could afford porcelain dolls in late imperial
Costume Dolls
Costume dolls have long been popular
among children and adults interested in traditional cultures. Doll historians suppose that costume dolls
were originally made to keep local traditions alive, after which their appeal
spread to outsiders. As world travel increased, souvenir dolls in national
costume became popular in the 18th century. Legend has it that Louis XIV even
imported miniature dolls to European courts in order to popularize French
fashion. By the early 20th century, European interest in exotic peoples
and folk traditions only increased the desire for costume dolls. In today’s
somewhat homogenous societies, costume dolls present a unique way for people to
revisit their national heritage.
Costume Elements
Russian costume dolls may wear
traditional ethnic dress that varies considerably. The dress employed depends upon the wearer’s
social status, regional origin, and era. However, Russian folk dress has
historically retained several common elements: a kokoshnik or kika (crescent-shaped headdress),
a rubashka
(shirt/ blouse) and a sarafan
(sleeveless dress).
As a sleeveless dress, sarafans covered a full-sleeved linen chemise in northern
The kokoshnik
headdress was a generously decorated heirloom that came to signify a
women’s status. Though they varied from region to region, most
headdresses contained rich fabrics such as velvet and silk and were intricately
embroidered with gold, silver, and pearls. The kokoshnik
was first produced first in bonnet form after which a particular shape was
added to the base. Costume dolls displaying Russian ethnic dress frequently
display the kokoshniks, an ancient and
uniquely Russian fashion.
Aside from the above, woven or
braided sashes depicting intricate designs also determined status. Specifically, the design’s details revealed
the wearer’s village origin and extended family, enabling arranged marriages to
be made. Finally, Russian folk apparel
displays ornamental embroidery on fancy dresses. These dresses also contained pearl and chain
collars to complement the many necklaces and earrings also worn.
Epilogue
Though Peter the Great (1700-1812) and Empress Elizabeth (1741-62) both
betrayed a strong affinity for European fashions, their influence upon native
apparel remained rather limited. Russian
folk apparel did not begin to change until the late 19th century, a byproduct
of increasing modernity. Unfortunately,
the 1917 Revolution accelerated the end for traditional folk dress in
Bibliography
1. Clay, Marianne. Doll Reader, Sep2003, Vol. 31 Issue 7, p38, 2p;
2. see http://collectdolls.about.com/library/weekly/aa011503b.htm
3. see http://indra.com/~eliz/Pictures/SCA/Encyclo-348.gif
4. Razina, T.M. Folk
Art in the Soviet Union
.
Aurora Art. 1990.
5. Coleman, Dorothy. The Collector's Encyclopedia of Dolls.
1986.
5. Hilton, Alison. Russian Folk Art
.