Home

 

 

 

Russian Costume Dolls

 

 

 

Porcelain
Though china dolls can be traced to 1750, they did not become popular until the 1840s. By that time, German factories had begun manufacturing porcelain doll heads from pressed molds. Germany retained this niche by keeping porcelain manufacture a trade secret.  To keep the valuable paste to a minimum, a wooden peg-like dowel was attached to the head instead.


These hard-paste porcelain dolls contained kaolin (non-discoloring white china clay), quartz and feldspar. By 1870, porcelain producers had learned how to make porcelain paste pour, improving curves and overall smoothness. The improvement reinforced porcelain’s attraction over bisque, a newly discovered ceramic mixture that made doll skin look like china.

 

Porcelain dolls look their best when created from custom-crafted doll molds, traditionally a time-consuming and expensive process.  Accordingly, only royalty and the wealthy could afford porcelain dolls in late imperial Russia. In the early 20th century, mass-produced porcelain dolls drove down both price and quality.  Fortunately, several companies today employ new technology to create affordable hand-painted porcelain dolls using custom-crafted molds.

 

Costume Dolls

Costume dolls have long been popular among children and adults interested in traditional cultures.  Doll historians suppose that costume dolls were originally made to keep local traditions alive, after which their appeal spread to outsiders. As world travel increased, souvenir dolls in national costume became popular in the 18th century. Legend has it that Louis XIV even imported miniature dolls to European courts in order to popularize French fashion. By the early 20th century, European interest in exotic peoples and folk traditions only increased the desire for costume dolls. In today’s somewhat homogenous societies, costume dolls present a unique way for people to revisit their national heritage.

 

Costume Elements

Russian costume dolls may wear traditional ethnic dress that varies considerably.  The dress employed depends upon the wearer’s social status, regional origin, and era. However, Russian folk dress has historically retained several common elements: a kokoshnik or kika (crescent-shaped headdress), a rubashka (shirt/ blouse) and a sarafan (sleeveless dress).

 

As a sleeveless dress, sarafans covered a full-sleeved linen chemise in northern Russia and a woolen skirt with apron in southern Russia. They were notable for their intense colors (usually blue or red) and bold designs (often derived from archaic motifs).  The male-worn rubashka was a full shirt made of heavy white linen and embroidered at the ends. As a full shirt, the rubashka is worn outside the trousers and extends to the hip.

 

The kokoshnik headdress was a generously decorated heirloom that came to signify a women’s status. Though they varied from region to region, most headdresses contained rich fabrics such as velvet and silk and were intricately embroidered with gold, silver, and pearls. The kokoshnik was first produced first in bonnet form after which a particular shape was added to the base. Costume dolls displaying Russian ethnic dress frequently display the kokoshniks, an ancient and uniquely Russian fashion.

 

Aside from the above, woven or braided sashes depicting intricate designs also determined status.  Specifically, the design’s details revealed the wearer’s village origin and extended family, enabling arranged marriages to be made.  Finally, Russian folk apparel displays ornamental embroidery on fancy dresses.  These dresses also contained pearl and chain collars to complement the many necklaces and earrings also worn.

 

 

Epilogue
Though Peter the Great (1700-1812) and Empress Elizabeth (1741-62) both betrayed a strong affinity for European fashions, their influence upon native apparel remained rather limited.  Russian folk apparel did not begin to change until the late 19th century, a byproduct of increasing modernity.  Unfortunately, the 1917 Revolution accelerated the end for traditional folk dress in Russia. Today, Russian costume dolls help reveal beautiful folk dress designs long forgotten.



Bibliography
1. Clay, Marianne. Doll Reader, Sep2003, Vol. 31 Issue 7, p38, 2p;

2. see http://collectdolls.about.com/library/weekly/aa011503b.htm

3. see http://indra.com/~eliz/Pictures/SCA/Encyclo-348.gif

4. Razina, T.M. Folk Art in the Soviet Union . Aurora Art. 1990.
5. Coleman, Dorothy. The Collector's Encyclopedia of Dolls. 1986.
5. Hilton, Alison. Russian Folk Art . Indiana University Press. 1996

 

 

Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

1