Contents
A Crude Film Test
Lens Ratings by Popular Photography magazine - Updated for 1998
Comparison Between Yashica T4 and Ricoh GR1
Carrying Cases for the GR1
Links
Hands-On Review
of the GR1s (with illustrative images)
My Point and Shoot Camera Page
My Tips and Tricks
for P&S Photography
Newer Models of the GR Body
Ricoh Europe page for the GR1s
A Rough Guide to the GR1 (a nice site with lovely images and more links)
Favorable and Unfavorable Comments by Users (updated 3/11/00)
The Essential GR1 page (a great page with user images and more links)
Ricoh Web Site
A Home-Made Cable Release for Your P&S Camera
If you want to learn more about P&S shooting, I highly recommend the P&S tips authored
by Philip Greenspun. Phil also has a buyer's guide for P&S cameras. Check out the Photo.Net Point and Shoot thread for an ongoing discussion of the GR1 vs the Nikon 28ti.
Ricoh is no longer distributing 35mm cameras in the United States. Ricoh will continue to warrant and service cameras in the US. Click here to see a discussion on Photo.net of where to find a GR1. Many have recommended Robert White Camera Specialists as a good source.
FILM TEST. I conducted a crude, side-by-side film test of the Yashica T4 Super and the GR1. I loaded the GR1 with a roll of Fuji Reala 100 and shot 1/2 the roll. I rewound the film and loaded it into the T4 and shot the first 1/2 of the roll up to the point where I'd finished shooting with the GR1. The pictures were all basic outdoor scenics taken under the same lighting conditions. The quality of the 4x6" prints are pretty close for both cameras. The GR1 prints seem a bit sharper overall, the T4 prints a bit more pleasing in contrast; I haven't examined the negatives with a loupe or had any enlargements made. I also compared several rolls of prints taken with the GR1 with those taken with a Canon EOS Elan II using Kodak Royal Gold ISO 200 and 400. In my unscientific, eyeball judgment, the results were equal to any of the 4x6 prints produced by the Elan II (using a 28-80 and 28-105 USM zoom lens set at 28mm) at the same time with the same film. No enlargements were made.
See the June, 1998, issue of Popular Photography magazine for a comparison of the GR1, the Minolta TC-1 and the Nikon 28-Ti.
-- Practical Photography - a British magazine awarded the GR1 10 Stars **********, the only compact camera to receive their highest rating.
User Report
The GR1 is easy to use but can be unforgiving if you use careless techniques. All the mode and flash setting except T (Bulb) and self-timer remain engaged after power off, a real plus in my opinion. The shutter is release priority not focus priority so it will fire regardless of the focus or aperture settings. Use fast film, practice good techniques mentioned by Phil Greenspun and be aware AF and AP warnings.
Personal opinions and observations:
1. Flash Warning.
The flash warning system works well and should be heeded. It's nice to know when the flash won't carry so you can adjust your position accordingly. The autofocus warning system may be
just that - a warning. If you are using aperture priority and a small aperture, say f/5.6 or smaller, you may be able to safely ignore the warning, as long as you're not trying to shoot closer than the minimum default focal distance of the lens (about 6.5 feet). In aperture priority, the flash goes into a slow synch. setting, sort of like a night flash mode on other cameras.
Additional comments from James Rosenzweig in the Rec.photo newsgroup. Interestingly, the GR1 allows two different exposure methods with the flash. If you are in the program mode, the aperture varies as the distance varies. Basically what [this is] is a common flashmatic mode where information from the AF system determines the aperture setting as appropriate for the ISO and flash output. In the aperture preferred mode, the flash output varies depending upon distance, with the aperture remaining set as you desired. The out of range flash warning in the viewfinder is very helpful in this mode as it takes into consideration the preset aperture! You also have the choice of slow synch and daylight synch as well as auto flash, forced fill in and flash off modes.
2. SNAP
Mode.
The SNAP mode locks autofocus at a hyperfocal distance of 6' to infinity. I don't know of any other P&S camera with this feature. It's great for quick grab shots and street photography.
All the shots I made using it were sharp. Holding the camera in my right hand and engaging the shutter with my thumb worked well for stealthy vertical shots. and allows you to better see the
lens' relation to the subject. There's also a FIXED FOCUS MODE on the GR1. This is similar to the SNAP mode and let's you lock the focus at a user selected distance. I don't use this often.
(James Rosenzweig) writes: The SNAP function can be used two different ways. By merely engaging the SNAP mode, the GR 1 locks focus at 2 meters.
(James Rosenzweig) writes: The SNAP function can be used two different ways. By merely engaging the SNAP mode, the GR 1 locks focus at 2 meters.
(J. Greely) Considering the amount of automation available for cameras these days, it's a pity they didn't include a true hyperfocal mode. All they need is a lookup table with thirteen entries in it, one for each aperture the camera lets you set. I'd be willing to pay extra for a GR-2 that included that function. For now, this should be useful:
| f/Stop | Feet | Meters | f/-Stop | Feet | Meters |
| 2.8 | 30.62 | 9.33 | 3.5 | 24.50 | 7.47 |
| 4 | 21.43 | 6.53 | 4.5 | 19.05 | 5.81 |
| 5.6 | 15.31 | 4.67 | 6.7 | 12.80 | 3.90 |
| 8 | 10.72 | 3.27 | 9.5 | 9.03 | 2.75 |
| 11 | 7.79 | 2.38 | 13 | 6.60 | 2.01 |
| 16 | 5.36 | 1.63 | 19 | 4.51 | 1.38 |
| 22 | 3.9 | 1.19 | |||
3. Ergonomics.
Ergonomics are just about perfect. I carried the GR1 around Arizona on horseback and on day hikes in a shirt pocket or a belt pack with no problem. Shooting (pictures) one-handed from
horseback was a good test. I'm still amazed at the small size of the GR1. I carry it everywhere.
3a. Aperture Settings. Aperture settings and the Program Mode are selected with a dial on top of the camera. Settings can be made quickly with your thumb in � stops from f/2.8 to f/22. The layout is clear, settings are click stopped, and they don't move off their mark.
4. Exposure Compensation. Exposure compensation can be set in � stops from +2 to -2 EV. It's simple to use by turning a dial on top of the camera. The settings are visible all the time and don't change when the camera is off. This is the only way to change the ISO of the film; there is no manual DX setting. I usually expose print film at +1 EV as this gives the pictures a bit more contrast and detail in the shadows. Also, labs can correct for overexposed print film much easier, especially shots taken in fluorescent lighting.
5. Spec. Comparison: Yashica T4 Super
(now discontinued) vs. GR1
Technical Specs. and my subjective opinions only. The T4 and GR1 are both fine cameras in different price ranges.
| Specification | T4 Super | GR1 |
| Body | Plastic | Metal |
| Size/Feel | Very Good | Excellent |
| Weight Without Battery | 7.5 oz. | 6.1 oz. |
| Shirt Pocket Test | Barely Fits | Room to
Spare |
| Weatherproof | Yes | No |
| Ergonomics | Good | Outstanding |
| No | Yes (+/-2 EV) in � stops | |
| Manual Focusing | No | No |
| Manual Metering | No | No |
| Shutter Priority | No | No |
| Aperture Priority | No | Yes |
| Program Mode | Yes | Yes |
| DX Settings | 50-3200 | 25-3200 |
| Manual DX Setting | No | No |
| Flash Power | Good | Adequate |
| Flash Guide Number | 9 (ISO 100) | 7(ISO 100) |
| Flash Out of Range
Warning | No | Yes |
| Red-Eye Reduction | Yes | Yes |
| Focus Type | Active | Passive |
| Wide Beam Focus | Yes | Yes |
| Low Light Focus Assist Beam | No | Yes |
| Low Light Viewfinder Illumination | No | Yes |
| Focus Warning | No | Yes |
| Focus Lock | Yes | Yes |
| Focus Zones | 160 | 2,925 |
| Automatic Backlight
Compensation | Yes | Yes |
| Parallex Correction | No | Yes |
| Self Timer | Yes | Yes |
| Infinity Lock | Yes | Yes |
| Viewfinder | Bright | Bright |
| 2nd Viewfinder | Yes
-Superscope | No |
| Viewfinder LCD | Good | Poor in bright light but Good in dim light |
| Filter Threads | No | No |
| Lens | Zeiss T* f/3.5 |
Ricoh GR f/2.8 |
| Lens Material | Glass | Glass |
| Lens Elements | 4, 3 groups | 7, 4 groups |
| Shutter Speeds - in
Program |
1-1/700 | 2-1/500 |
| Shutter Speeds - in
Aperture Priority |
N/A | from f/2.8-f/8
2-1/250 |
| N/A | f/8 2-1/325 | |
| N/A | f/16 2-1/500 | |
| Spot Meter | No | Yes |
| Metering Quality | Excellent | Excellent |
| Hyperfocal Lock | No | Yes |
| Slow Synch Flash | Yes | Yes |
| "Bulb" Setting | No | Yes |
| Battery Type | One CR123A 3V
Lithium |
One CR2 3V
Lithium |
| Battery Life Claim (50 %
flash use) |
480 shots | 300 shots |
| Rewind w/ Film Leader Out | No | Yes |
| Auto Power Off | No | Yes - after
five minutes |
| End of Comparison Table | ||
I used my T4 in situations where I wouldn't take the GR1, like canoeing. The T-4 lens is very sharp and maybe - maybe - as good as the GR1 for snapshooting. It may still be the best P&S under US$200, though the Olympus Stylus Epic has a faster lens, spot metering and is a better bargain. I'd like to see some comparison testing on this using slide film. Popular Photography magazine gave the T4 lens an Excellent rating.
6.
Nit-picking.
My only criticisms of the GR1 are the difficulty in seeing the aperture readouts in the viewfinder in bright sunlight and the inability of the passive focus to lock onto a subject that
lacks distinct vertical lines. But, here's a tip to get around this problem. If the AF fails to find and lock on a vertical line, tilt the camera left or right at an angle (30-45 degrees). The AF will then lock onto a horizontal line, which the camera AF systems perceives as vertical. Just make sure the AF locks onto the distance you want. Works every time. Passive AF is still the best method for focusing on distant objects.
There is an error in the GR1 user manual on page 19. The manual indicates that the focus symbols flash when the camera is unable to focus. This is incorrect. The focus marks or brackets () blink, not the symbols. Check the Popular Photography test and you'll see confirmation of a spot meter option. Try a point light source in a dark environment and you'll see the dramatic drop off in sensitivity in the spot AF mode. I think the manual/brochure lost something in the translation from Japanese. If you look at the diagram in the brochure (call 1-800-225-1899 if you don't have one) where the sensitivity is depicted in a diagram, you'll also see that it has a spot option while they verbally say center-weighted. I also find the instruction manual short on its description of how the flash operates in aperture priority mode as compared to the flash in program mode.
In very bright sunlight, the viewfinder readouts for shutter speeds are very difficult to see. Check this out at the store in bright light if you plan to purchase the camera. However, since AF and exposure are locked when the shutter is pressed down halfway, you can also turn the camera toward the shade or the ground to see the readouts, then re-compose and take the shot if the exposure is suitable, or take another reading or set exposure compensation accordingly. In dim light the viewfinder lights up and is very easy to read. You can also place your left forefinger over the left edge of the viewfinder while continuing to look through the it. This will shade the side and the shutter speed readout will become clearly visible.
Turning on the "red-eye reduction" mode requires pushing two button at once, which is a bit inconvenient, but I rarely use this feature. The red-eye reduction works as well as can be expected.
The On/Off switch is a little too easy to engage. The camera came on once while packed inside a soft case inside a daypack, apparently when the pack was moved. This hasn't happened since I bought a durable Tamrac belt case. The camera will automatically power off after a few minutes. Update: 1/99. The leather case now has a protective panel which covers the on/off switch, flash switch and viewfinder. You can't switch the camera on, even intentionally, through the case. This problem seems to be fixed, if you use the case.
7. 28mm
Lens.
Since I shoot a lot of landscapes, street scenes and family shots, the 28mm is a desirable lens
for my interests. It's not the best for portraits, but works okay if you don't get too close and
foreshorten features.
8. Other Reviews/Info.
An extensive review of the GR1 can be found in the January, 1997, issue of _Popular
Photography_ magazine (page 20). Other reviews are available in _Amateur Photographer_, 30
November 1996: 3 page review; _Amateur Photographer_, February 8, 1997: Compact Camera
of the Year; _Buying Cameras_, short review.
9. Closeup Lens Usage.
I experimented with using
close-up lenses (diopters) with the GR1. The GR1 doesn't have
filter threads, but it is possible to use diopters by locking the AF in Macro mode by holding
down the shutter release half way and holding a large diopter (I use a 58mm because that's what I
have) in front of the lens before releasing the shutter, preferably with the self-timer engaged and
using a tripod. You must focus first or the AF will be fooled by the extra lens. The results using
Hoya single element diopters were acceptable, but when I tried using a Canon 250D double
element lens the results were disastrous - all the images were out of focus. I suspect the greater
thickness of the Canon glass caused the lens to focus at the default range of 6.5 feet.
10. Availability.
As mentioned at the top of this page, Ricoh is no longer distributing 35mm cameras in the US.
In the US Ricoh can be reached at (702) 352-1615 or 1-800-225-1899 if you wish to inquire about remaining stock, but don't count much help. Some recent buyers have recommended Robert
White Camera Specialists
11. Lens Sharpness Ratings by _Popular Photography_
magazine.
1998 Test Scores in parentheses where different.
| f/number | CENTER | EDGE |
| 2.8 | Very Good ('98:Excellent) | Very Good |
| 4 | Excellent ('98:Outstanding) | Very Good |
| 5.6 | Outstanding | Very Good - Plus ('98:Outstanding) |
| 8 | Outstanding | Excellent |
| 11 | Outstanding | Excellent |
| 16 | Very Good - Plus ('98:Very Good) | Very Good |
| 22 | Good - Plus ('98: Good) | Good |
13. Slave Flash.
Some people have asked about using a slave unit with the GR1 or other P&S cameras. The slave unit I use is sold by Ritz camera in the US for about $20. It's about the size of a pack of cigarettes and comes with a removable, ratcheting foot and velcro strap, so you can mount it almost anywhere and in any position or just hand hold it. Powered by two AAA batteries, it fires when the camera's flash goes off. I don't recall the Guide Number, probably about 6 or 7, but enough for the purpose intended. I usually place it on a bookshelf about 6 to 6 1/2' up and angled at 45 degrees to knock down shadows on group shots and boost the on-camera flash. Mounting on a tripod leg also works. Pentax has a similar mini slave flash.
14. Carrying Cases
I didn't buy the Ricoh carrying case for the GR1. I ended up buying a Tamrac belt case. I believe the model is called "Mini Traveler." Got it at a larger camera shop locally. Cost is about US $10. I settled on the Tamrac because it seemed to allow quickest access to the camera with fairly good protection and a velcro closure rather than a zipper; zippers are harder to open, especially in cold weather if you're wearing gloves. The outside measurements are 5 1/4" x 3 1/2" by 1 3/4". The case fits on your belt with the camera in a vertical position. The case is slightly larger than the camera so I glued a 3/4" by 1/2" x 5" piece of open cell foam down the inside to add a bit more cushioning. Works great. Tamrac also makes a small neoprene case under the NEO's label. They are very nice and a good choice if you want neoprene rather than a hard nylon case. Lowe makes a case identical to the Tamrac, except that it has an extra inside watertight 'pocket' with a string tie on top. Okay for really bad conditions, but overkill for me. Sundog also makes similar cases. Sundog is available at outdoor and camping shops. Back
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Comments or questions on the GR1 are welcome.
[email protected]
Good Shooting! John McCormack
