September 9, 2001

September 10, 2001

After dropping our friends off at the train station in Rousse, we headed back here to Silistra. And with their departure, our summer seems to be coming to a close. A week with close friends seems to be the best way to close out an incredible summer. Now our Peace Corps life here in Bulgaria doesn’t seem like such a secret existence from family and friends who live back in the States. And it actually seems that life here is on the down slope. Last year, at this time, we were thinking that each day will be repeated again – that is, we knew that we had two years still to go. It became especially difficult at times during some cold, bleak days of January when we knew that we still had one more January to go. We certainly don’t want to wish this time away, and we want to bring this PC experience to a successful close, but we’re both looking forward to returning home in about ten months. It feels amazing that we’ve been here for such a long period of time – I’d heard of people who did PC for two or more years without returning to the States and I thought it was remarkable. How can one be so far away from home for such a long time? Don’t ya miss a few things? Don’t you become skinny, glassy-eyed, and withdrawn from reality? (No – we’ve become more alive) I guess we’re some of those people now (but I haven’t got any skinnier – Kate’s happy about that.) The new group of volunteers have been sworn in and now our B-10 group is essentially waiting in the “outbox” as the attention of the PC staff in Sofia has shifted from our novice group to the new novice group. I know that ten months isn’t chump change time – but to have less than a year left after living in the shadow of a two-year commitment is sorta exciting. We feel like we’ve actually accomplished something at this point. I returned to school this week to be greeted by teachers with big smiles and knowing conversations. And I got the feeling that my return for a second year sort of gives a little hope to the teachers. The teachers at my school know full well that I could return to opportunity-laden America and start making my first million (yeah right). But we chose to stay another year with them and hack our way through another year of teaching (I’m looking forward to it). I wasn’t a stranger to them anymore. In fact, relative to the new Spanish teacher from Spain, I’m old hat. Being old hat isn’t so bad sometimes.

This weekend we’re heading out to a city called “Cherven Briyag” – “Red Bank” for a wedding between a PC volunteer and a Bulgarian. After not seeing other volunteers all summer long, we’re looking forward to seeing many of them again, not to mention the wedding! Peace Corps Bulgaria has the highest rate of marriage to native people than any other program in Peace Corps. Why? I don’t know. Possible answers: Bulgarians would say that they have some of the most beautiful women in all of Europe, someone made a lot of rakiya last fall and they need an excuse to drink it, or maybe just the right mix of people. There was one guy in our group (who has since left) who came to PC Bulgaria with the goal of “finding a wife.” Hmmmm . . . does that ever work? We’re really happy for the two who are getting married this weekend – they already make a great couple.

I’ll try to remember some quotes from my parents’ visit and our friends’ visit – their reflections on Bulgaria. (Mostly paraphrased, as Kate will tell you my memory isn’t the greatest.) “Don’t you think that it could be more beautiful if people just picked up their trash?” – Mom. While looking at a dozing 3-year old girl on the bus Mike said, “Just think, in a few years she’ll put on her first g-string with see-through pants for the first time – that will be a proud and happy day.” “How many taxes did we pay at the Romanian border?” – and – “What was THAT tax for?” – Dad. “I like the potatoes in Bulgaria.” – and – “This would be really good with American ingredients.” – Laura. “That’s not us, is it?” – Dad, after hearing a rumbling sound coming from the rear of the rented car – we had a flat. “What kind of toilet is it?” – Mom. “Bulgaria is nicer than I thought it would be.” – Laura. “I think that Americans should adopt this style of dress” – Mike. “Where do those turkeys belong?” – Laura. “Look, there’s a turkey!” – Dad. After seeing our school, Mike and Laura said, “Can’t you just buy paint?” While driving behind a Bulgarian bus my Dad said, “That’s the cause of global warming.”

Peace –

Josh