Each RCA plug is different in it's physical detials. For the
ground conection, some have large long lugs with strain reliefs
on the end, some are just a small tab, others have a small
nubbin to solder to. The large barrel type with the long
ground lugs are the best for DIY work.

Each one will dictate a method for termination.

For the small tabs and nubbins, comb the braid out, twist it
tightly into a lead that is gathered together as soon as
possible, then is formed towoard the open end of the cable.
Solder it into a common chunk, then cut-off the end, and trim
or cut the remainder to a chisle point that you then carefully
solder to the small lug or nubbin. The spacing has to work out
to meet or match the ground lug position once the center is
soldered into place, so space and size accordingly.

This technique will also work for the large lug style RCA's,
if the soldered shield stump is soldered to the inside of the
lug, without wrapping the shield wire around the lug. Be sure
to get a good connection, keep the shield stub against the lug
until it cools, and avoid any motion until it does cool.

For those with long lugs, and or strain relief tabs, it
sometimes helps to cut the strain relief tabs off, or even
the whole end of the lug. With most of the long lug types,
there is enough room to bend the lug down in an "S" shape to
allow the barrel to fit over the lug and shield soldered to it.
This necessitates a neat and tight soldering job on the lug.

NOTE: Some RCA plugs have a crimped ground lug, the plug and
ground lug are not one piece. For these, it is worth trying
to make a solder connection where you can get at the lug and
plug. Scape the area vigorously , then apply lots of heat and
feed a small amount of solder onto the area. Don't build it
up, or try to wick it in, or the barrel may not screw over
that area.

If you get a good solid solder joint that's slightly too big,
you can sand it or grind it down carefully to allow the barrel
to fit.  Don't solder fill any grooves for the barrel to screw
on.  I recommend this be done BEFORE soldering the cable to
the plug, and use pliers to hold the plug, or some other form
of insulated holder, as enough heat to allow the solder to melt
onto the plug heats the whole plug very hot.

Jon Risch
 

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Terminations

For the record, wire terminations:
Best termination in my opinion:  a proper crimp on bare metal (copper or silver)
Next Best:  A good solder joint using eutectic solder, or for soldering pro's, s silver bearing solder.
Next Best:  Bare twisted copper or silver smashed between a post or connector.
Next best(actually worst):  Tinning, then a compression fit.
One should never solder on top of a good crimp.

My Favorite Speaker Cable Connectors, in order of preference:
Kimber Postmaster spade lugs, crimped
For occasional or experimental use:  Monster X-Terminators, tightened down very hard.  Note: My hand strength is very high, I have broken pliers and ripped off the heads off of bolts and screws.  I would recommend a tool aided tightening for any speaker connection.
WBT has versions of each of these, but they cost more.

In general:
Spades
High Pressure Bananna
Bare copper smashed between Binding post
Regular bananna

Not considered suitable:
Spring loaded terminals using either bare, tinned or pinned wire terminations

Jon Risch

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In my opinion, the best speaker cable termination is a crimped spade lug, preferable one of the compression types ala Kimber. Bare copper wires are OK in a pinch, but cannot be tightened down fully without cutting or mangling the individual strands with the binding posts. Either the conection isn't tight enough to prevent corrosion from creeping in and providing the best performance, or the strands get mangled. Bananna plugs just can't provide the sheer contact area at enough pressure to do any good compared to spade lugs.

Tinning the end of the speaker cable makes for a superficially neat and tidy connection, but is not optimal, loosens up with time, corrodes and generally would be considered undesirable for high-performance.

Heavily gold-plated brass makes for the best spade lugs, the compression type uses a layer of elastic material sandwiched in between the outer surfaces to provide some tension at all times for the lug. Some people feel that the connections of a speaker cable are the most important part.

For more on soldering, see:
http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/cables/messages/7144.html

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