page5

page 5

Flutes are among the oldest musical instruments in the world. Flutes made from animal bones have been found in archaelogical excavations. Flutes also come in a variety of shapes and forms. Some are globular, such as ocarinas. Others are tubular, such as the marching band fife and orchestra flute. Many instruments of this type are remarkably similar in form. The Indian bansuri, Chinese di-tzi and silver transverse (AKA cross) flute come to mind. Others have unique features. Middle Eastern neys and Bulgarian kavals have beveled (cut at a slant) mouthpieces, if they can be considered mouthpieces at all.. Japanese shakuhachis and Andean (South American mountain) quenas have mouthpieces featuring curved or notched blowing lips. Pan flutes (or Pan Pipes) consist of several tubes fastened together. These have no mouthpieces at all, per se. Then there are Native American flutes, which have two holes, one on each side of a partition in the flute. The hole furthest from the mouthpiece is considered the true sound hole. The far edge is beveled, thus forming a wedge shape. Air is directed over this hole by means of a moveable "fetish" with a wind channel cut either into its bottom or into the surface of flute on which the fetish rests. Hence one can control the volume of the tone by moving the fetish back and forth. The fetish itself is tied onto the flute with leather thongs. Then there are the "fipple" flutes, such as pennywhistles and recorders. These, along with the Native American Flutes (NAFs for short) and ocarinas, are considerably easier to learn than many other flutes described so far.

You can make flutes, as well as whistles, from a variety of materials, including bamboo, wood, glass (specifically pyrex), clay and plastic (including PVC). I include whistles because some whistles and flutes often have common features. Each material has its benefits and risks. PVC is fairly economical but has hazards I already mentioned in the section about didgeridoos. The making of glass flutes requires special techniques. Glass itself is fragile. I've never made a glass flute myself. Although you can produce pleasant tones from metal flutes (especially those made from copper pipe), points, rough spots and sharp edges create undue hazards. Wood allows for great variety of design but often you need special tools. Bamboo is naturally hollow. You can leave the "partitions" (nodes) intact or drill them out as yo see fit. In the case of bamboo, as well as wood, however, you need to beware of sawdust, splinters and sharp edges. No matter what material you decide to use, a well ventilated area is a necessity.

As an introduction to playing a flute of just about any kind, you might want to practice blowing across the open mouth of a soda or spring water bottle. First, try an empty bottle. Then gradually fill it up with water and blow across the top. Compare the difference in tone quality and volume when you blow gently or harder. Set up several bottles, each filled with different amounts of water (increasing by increments), and you have a simple xylophone, of sorts.

Try blowing across a pen cap. Tape several together, side by side and you have a model of panpipes. These exercises may seem like child's play but provide good practice for considering actual panpipes, as well as endblown flutes (e.g., shakuhachis, quenas, neys and kavals).

Sideblown flutes require a bit more refinement: pursing the lips in such a way as to produce a gentle stream of air across the mouth hole (embouchure).

Now let's consider how to make flutes. You can choose from a variety of materials, including bamboo, wood, clay, PVC and copper pipe. The following instructions are adapted to making instruments from bamboo. You might want to have shellac on hand, for the purpose of applying a sealant and finish to the completed models.

Start with a fife or simple transverse (cross) flute. This consists basically of a tube, closed at one end, and a series of holes drilled into one side. One of these holes is the mouth hole.

You can use a bamboo tiki torch or bamboo garden stake. In the case of the torch, cut away the splayed part which holds the metal cannister, along with the tapered point at the opposite end. If the remaining part of the torch has a node, you may keep that intact if it is near one end. Else, gently pierce the inside wall of the node and clean out the debris with a round file. In the case of the garden stake, try cutting a section which has a node intact--about an inch from one end. If there is much more than a foot between nodes, you might want to block one end with either a cork or a piece of wood dowel cut to fit inside the bamboo. Actually, the flute itself may be between one and two feet long, depending on how you feel about holding a large flute. At any rate, be sure the outer diameter of the bamboo is between three quarters of an inch and an inch, but not much wider than an inch and a quarter. You want to be able to hold the flute comfortably with both hands. As for the inner diameter of the flute, that may be between half an inch and one inch. The length, as well as inner and outer diameters of a particular flute, among other factors, have definite effects on the sound quality.

Click here to continue.

back to beginning