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April 2006
4/21/06. A pic of me and me Spanish teacher, Valeria!
4/18/06. Nana and our housemate here at Casa de Cecilla, Justin (New Zealand). A great guy. He's on his way soon of a tour of the other South American countries (and Cuba too).
4/18/06. Decided to take the big plunge and not only get my hair cut here, but have it colored. We're here at least through June, so why not? Went to this awesome stylist called Roho in our old neighborhood of Almagro, supposedly where all the Argentinian rockstars have their hair cut (nothing but the best for my baby, Nana says). I like this picture because I am reminded of a bald, tuberulosis-ridden poet of the early twentieth century, Masaoka Shiki, one of my heroes. (He had "zen" cut and was bald in his picture though.)
4/18/06. ....and more blue hair. Rock and roll forever.
4/18/06.View from above. They did a nice job cutting my hair. Everyone says the cut matches my blue eyes. Azul
4/18/06. Pictures of Holy Friday, Santa Semana week. Argentinians walk the 15 stations of the cross down Aveninda de Mayo, just a block from my apartment. Quite a big crowd.
4/18/06. More Holy Friday (Viernes Santa), you can see the giant cross that people would take turns (trying) to hold up. Got shaky there for part of the walk. There must be something to what people say about it being such a cross to bear.
4/18/06. We've reached the 2nd station (I think: sorry, they didn't have an English translation over the loudspeakers.) We see Mary. It was hard photographing the scene because of the big yellow street light bulbs. There were a ton of lit candles at the base of this "stationary" station of the cross. Very beautiful.
4-18-06. NOT in Argentina, but part of a project I'm working on. The three-faced Shura (Ashura) demon/divinity of Asia.
4/14/06. Today is Holy Friday (Viernes Santa), so no one is downtown. My block is pretty empty. I was able to see the neighboring building of my school in a new way since there was no traffic. I think it's pretty unique. Here are some photos of it.
4/14/06. My "school building."
4/14/06. My understanding is that the buildings here on Avenida de Mayo (the first avenue in BsAs) have more Spanish influence than in other parts of the city.
4/14/06. More pics of my school building, between San Jose and Santigo del Espero.
4/14/06 V for Vendetta.
4/14/06. Last one. Now, how about some food?
4/14/06 These are churros, basically elongated donuts with lots of sugar sprinkled on them, and you dip them in hot chocolate. Milan originally suggested these to me when we were in Cafe Tortino (see below), but I couldn't photograph those that well. Pretty good stuff -- much more crunchy than a donut or donut-hole.
4/14/06. A picture of my usual subway, Subtle line (Linea) A. Hard to photograph this too -- if I use a flash, it washes out the color of the old wood. This is the oldest subway line in the city -- and in my opinion, the nicest. (And yes, even though it is Holy Friday, the subways are running (nobody is riding them, but they are running.)
4/12/06. Been listening to this album by Badly Drawn Boy now for several days. Downloaded no problem via iTunes. Had a rough patch yesterday, getting some bad news. Tracks like "I Love NYE" and "Silent Sigh" make me, strangely, happy to have my sadness. Like their sadness outdoes mine, so it's no so bad.
4/11/06 I've been meaning to write about the busses, called Colectivos, for some time now. I despise riding the collectivos because, 1) they are the antichrist, 2) riding them will require you to go to a massage therapist, and 3) they are damn hard to figure out. That being said, I made an effort to conquer them. Subways (subte) are great, but man cannot live on subtle alone. In BsAs, you basically have 5 subway lines. Each well designed to run along one main avenue, so that you have 3 lines that run parallel to each other, north to south, separated by about 5-6 blocks apart. 2 other lines bisect them on a east-west axis (approximately), but they do not form a nice square "circle" whereby you could run on any north-south and then cut back east-west. Among the lines, run the Colectivo.
4/11/06. Riding the Colectivo requires focus. No matter what, you're never really ready to be on collectivo. You cannot idly stand or nap. These buses move...fast. They brake...on a dime. Often. If you're lucky to sit down, you might be saved, but common courtesy requires us youngfolk to get up for elders.
Related to this: I have a fight with Nana last night because I left her to sit down on my own. Normally I would never do such a thing, but we were experimenting with a new bus, the 168, to try to get a quick and easy ride to/from home and our Tango teacher's. Standing in the busy, crowded isles,sometimes having to face backwards, I couldn't keep track of the streets (I was hoping) would come up. As I knew we were winding our way home, it got crucial to be able to count the streets off. So, when an open seat appeared, I took it. (Just one seat.) Nana seemed content to stand, so I focused on my task. when another seat opened, I waved to Nana to sit. When she came back, she chewed me out. "Jon, you should never do that. This is a Latin country. The man never leaves the woman alone on a bus or crowded place. I was so embarrassed, I couldn't come back here." She was about to cry. Colectivo, Colectivo!!!
Post script: We ended up getting off based on Nana's intuition, and were yet several blocks from home. We took a cab (!!!) from there to our home. Spent 4 pesos to go about 6 more blocks, made taking the collectivo (80 centavos per person), totally useless.
4/11/06It turns out that today was a day the Subte workers went on strike. Little did I know as I was taking photos of these colectivo passengers that I too would be riding the bus...
4/11/06. More Colectivo passengers
4/10/06. See how the other half lives. Picture of our cats, Banjo and Ringo, courtesy of Cliff and Kam (thanks guys!) who are caring for them in Seattle while we are away. They don't look like they miss us much! Cats really have no masters!
4/06/06. A series of photos as I stroll to my Japanese language school, Nichia Gakuin. I'm leaving my apartment, not more than 10 feet outside my door. Hopefully satisfies a request from one of you for scenery pics.
4/06/06We're in the Congresso district, actually we must be close to the Monseruat border. A lot of the neighboring shops are garment-makers.
4/06/06. On the way to Aveninda del Mayo, one of main traffic arteries.
4/06/06. Still on the way. Not really watching where I'm stepping, got to look out for you-know-what.
4/06/06. Still walking.
4/06/06 And more walking.
4/06/06. Still walking. You can see my subway stop past the newsvendor kiosk.
4/06/06 Abandon all hope, all ye who enter here...
4/06/06. Saenz Pena station, waiting for the A-train (Linea A).
4/06/06On the A-Train notice, if you can, how the seats and interior are made of wood. All of BsAs's trains are imported from Japan, recycled, reburbished cars, although Linea A has the oldest cars -- reminds of what Showa-era Japan cars must have been like.
Out of the station, leaving Rio de Janiero station for a short detour to my favorite cafe chain for some fuel. This is called the "Almagro" barrio -- the barrio we first lived in.
More street life. Really got to be careful stepping here...
Out on the streets...
Touchdown, Havanna cafe.
6 peso, 20 centavo ($2.08) set of coffee (in BsAs, called cortado, but I bet it's what we know in the US as Machiatto), lil' juice, cookie, and small "brownie". Sometimes they also give you a little glass of fizzy water.
Yum. Ok, back on the steets to the school.
More buildings, scenery.
And Nichia Gakuin, my Japanese school. Yay.
4/6/06. Here is my favorite sandwich, called "Caribe" -- I first came across it at the Petit Colon, a cafe in the shadow of the grand Teatro Colon where Milan, Nana, and I saw the opera La Boheme. (Stop me if this is sounding like a J. Peterman catalog entry.) What's on a Caribe sandwich you ask? Thanks!
    Recipe for Caribe sandwich (Petit Colon)
  1. use a thin bread, I think it's called Arabe here, but the texture is like a English muffin. If your store sells thinly sliced "english muffin" bread (or sourdough, maybe ok), then you're on the right track. Toast the bread.
  2. One side: thinly sliced ham (jamon) and chese (queso) with a dab of mayonaise
  3. other side: thinly sliced pineapple (arana) and tomato (I salt my tomatoes at this step)

Mmmm...Que rico!

4/05/06 Cecilla's kitchen. Check out the hot water heater not-so-conveinently located above the sink. You hold your head back to avoid the gas light sparking your hair on fire. For me the real marvel is how they get that big thing to hang on the wall.
4/5/06. New York Times ran an article in their travel section on Buenos Aires. I love how the cartoonist condensed the city down like this -- I can't imagine going from Recoleta and the cemetary from Plaza del Mayo in so short a time. With the way the buses treat you down here, you'd wish you could live in this kind of BsAs: short and sweet (instead of long and extended).
4/04/06A photo of our lovely Tango instructor, Marcella, with Nana. Nana have been taking private lessons with her for a couple of weeks. I am due for a "debut" at a milonga (tango club) soon.
And another photo I found of our friends Doug and Amy, posted 4/4/06. Nana and I went back to El Trapiche later with Milan, who we also got to see when we visited BsAs. At that time, we ordered the pork chops, a rucula salad (right Milan?), and yes, another Mustard Steak (Lomo de Mostazo). Really can't beat that Mustard steak. Thanks to Doug who initially suggested it.
Another photo of me and Nana at the restuarant El Trapiche I found, dating back to late February. 4/4/06 post. Nana hogging the photo a tad. And to answer a question from one audience member, ericedge, yes, I am wearing glasses. Got these pair in Seattle on my UW Grad. Appointee insurance, thank you UW for making me look so good. (Nana insists I get a new set of frames while we're down here: people in BsAs really got the style thing going on.)
4/03/06

Here are few photos of our new homestay house, casa de Cecilla. Here, the view from a connecting hallway in the flat that is open-air. Cecilla is a sociology student at UBA here and rents out rooms in her cozy Congresso flat to visitors studying Spanish. I love the style of her place. The view is awesome. Nothing like getting up at night to grab a gulp of water, and look out over the city rooftops, the clouds rolling, breaking over the city and its horizon.

4/03/06

A 2nd shot of that open-air hallway connecting the living rooms and the kitchen areas.

4/03/06

The view from our room at Cecilla's.

4/03/06

And, another view.

4/03/06

For the last few days of March at our old homestay, a friend of the Tiepleman's son Fernando visited the house and brought his dog. A sweet (English?) bulldog.

4/02/06

If it �s one thing I do NOT like about BsAs, and I like a lot of things about this town, it�s the dog crap. I�ll visited New York and seen how in the residential areas there is a lot of poop, but man, this city takes the cake. (Not a good image, I know, but then, I�m posting a pic of dog poop, so if you didn�t like this topic, why bother reading this far?) Today was the first day I landed my foot in some poop. The smell was overpowering and I had to hand wash my shoes. The problem with poop here is there is no neutral ground, like a park, to rub off the stuff. The parks themselves are full of poop and ...well, foul stuff, so going to the park to rub your shoe in grass only compounds the stench. I avoid the parks like the plague.

4/02/06

Today was our 11th anniversary. People freak out when we tell them that we�ve been married 11 years. We get compliments that we look like we�re in our late twenties, early thirties, etc. That�s nice. We went to, supposedly, the best Japanese restuarant in BsAs, called Yuuki (asobi). It was recommended to us by the teachers at Nichia Gakuin Japanese School. The magazine-book Time Out also pushed it as the best. I ordered the Teishoku meal, came with sushi, sashimi, miso, goma plus spinach, and ...mushi. Oh, and shio-saba. All very nice. The mastaa came over to Nana with the plate of sushi (nigirizushi) personally. It was a very quiet place, with no sign out front. We noticed one guy came in, waited a bit for his order, and left in desperation when he didn�t get his food immediately. We figured he was too used to getting quick Argentine service. Not here. But then, the mastaa personally prepares all the food. The guy was sitting at the sushi-bar. If he couldn�t see that the cook was working his hardest, he was a jerk. We also noticed Argentinians reading books, hanging out and slowly eating their sushi. Something you don�t see much�: people reading while waiting on or eating sushi.

4/02/06

A photo of the famous porteno rocker, Charly Garcia. His CDs, I mean. These are records from the 80s. I really like them. They have blazing guitars and angry keyboards that sum up the 80s for me, but in another language, in their own idiom of BsAs. Charly Garcia came recommended to me via Time Out and a guy who sold clothes at a posh place in Palermo. When I asked for the CDs at a record store on Corrientes, the owner was pleased I asked for them.

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