After the Indian marathon, we quickly fell asleep on the flight from Kolkata to the Philippines via Singapore. The need for sleep seemed insatiable; our memory of the first couple of days in Manila is very foggy. This could also be attributed to the heavy pollution. Breathing became difficult with instant sore throats and so many new pimples that we felt we were back in puberty.
The following day we crawled out of bed and ventured into a shopping mall where we became victims of reversed culture shock. We tried to be cool about it, but ended up feeling like somebody's poor relations, so obviously out of place. Everything was so modern and in such abundance in this city full of skyscrapers. We stared in disbelief at the offer of popcorn and blockbusters at the multiplex cinema, shook our heads at stores filled to the brim with perfumes, fashion and gadgets. In the food court we drooled at hamburgers, sushi and deli sandwiches, food staples that seemed foreign, alluring and slightly threatening. Quickly reminded of the Southeast Asian obsession with putting the air condition on ice-cold, we remembered that in this part of the world you always carry a sweater. You put it on when you go indoors.
Getting over the initial shock we went on a culinary binge, eating tenderloin and mignon for both lunch and dinner. It had been a beef-less year, because of mad cows in Europe and holy ones in India. At first we liked Manila because it provided all these things that we had been missing, like service, up-to-date sitcoms and supermarkets. But after a few days the fog lifted and questions arose. Why were people eating out of the garbage dumpsters? Why did all the cars have smoked-glass windows? Why did all the shops and restaurants have armed guards checking people's purses?
Violent crime is out of control in the Philippines and corruption goes all the way to the top. It didn't end when Imelda Marcos had to stop shopping for shoes. The trial of former president Joseph Estrada started when we were in the country. He�s accused of stealing and laundering unfathomable amounts of money that could have boosted the standard of living for the voters had it been used appropriately. Maybe getting caught was the price he had to pay for being a bad B-movie actor in a former life. Absurdly, the victims, the dirt-poor majority of the population don't seem that upset with their shady politicians. The Philippine national trait is a constant good mood. They don't worry so much. They were much more jolly and excited about the advent of Christmas. Blinking lights, synthetic trees and Christmas carols were all the rage when we were there, in September! As soon as the safety briefing is over on a Filipino airplane, the flight crew proceeds to engage the passengers in a mid-flight game show session with mini basketball and a darts tournament. The winners get a T-shirt, applause and laughter.
Giving an indication of the country�s colonial influences, people generally had an American first name and a Spanish surname. America's presence is so strong that at times we got confused as to if we were in Kansas or Manila. There were strip malls and 24-hour drug stores, huge American cars, a total lack of sidewalks and tele-evangelists asking for credit card donations. It was all so USA! Maybe it would be appropriate for shopkeepers to say: �Thank you for contributing to the American economy,� when selling you cough syrup (Robitussin?) or the newspaper (USA Today?). Even the first episode of Survivor (the American edition of course) prided itself on commencing �only hours after the start of the new season in America.� The constitution and school system are US facsimiles and the local language, Pilipino, seems to consist of 1/3 English words and rolling R�s. Their currency is Pesos, but they count it out in English. |
