| . |
| The Civil War Reenactor's Stop |
|
![[History]](http://us.yimg.com/i/ligans/cb/smtdih.gif) |
 |
| Uniforms |
| CONFEDERATE |
 |
| JOHNNY REB |
| OR |
| Before you read any farther, let me tell you about this section. The information that I have provided in this section is my general knowledge I have obtained from books, videos, articles published by historians and fellow campaigners. With that in mind, please read on. When putting together any impression, you must ask yourself one important question. Was this available to the common soldier? This question is answered by common sense. By answering this, your impression will be greatly improved. When getting your impression together, you must find out the theater your unit was in and what period your unit portrays. All this has a significant affect on your impression. In this section to come, I will explain a good Eastern ANV impression. Mid War Uniform Uniform Cloth Before buying a jacket, you need to know the material it was made of. Contrary to popular belief, wool was rarely used, as it was too expensive to make in the mid 1800s. A good confederate impression would consist of Jean Cloth. Jean Cloth was a mix of wool and cotton. It is lighter than wool and is a lot more comfortable. Jean Cloth mainly used because it was cheap and readily available. Manny believe that the color of the confederacy's uniforms were gray. Most started out like that when it was dyed. Due to the inconsistency of the dyes, the grays ranged form almost black to very, very light. Typical of southern dyes, weak vegetable dyes were used. They faded due to oxidation to a medium to dark brown, sometimes called butternut. The butternut is not the ones that mainstream sutlers sell, that color is too bright. That butternut would be dull in color due to daily wear and dirt and the strenght of that partivular dye. If you get Jean Cloth, get it from someone who dyes it the way they did, just so you can get the right color the common soldier had. Jacket When buying a jacket, you have three or four choices. If your unit is from North Carolina, you know exactly what you need. That leaves the rest of us with three choices. The choices are: Frock Coat (here on out, referred to as frock), Richmond Depot Type II (RD II), and the Commutation jacket. The Commutation jacket became less prevalent as the war progresses. As you know, early on, the government offered to reimburse the soldiers for the uniforms that they bought. This system was quickly done away with. A local seamester or a family member usually made the Commutation jacket. It would be made of jean cloth or satinette (wool like substance). It would be a sort waist level coat with five to ten buttons. They ranged from very fancy to very plain. Personal preference is what usually went into these. These are a good choice for an early war impression. If you choose to buy one of these, check what your unit was issued in the beginning of the war. The next choice would be the frock. It was made of many different materials too. The most used was jean cloth (cheapest). I don�t know if the government ever issued frocks (if they did, it would be early war). These jackets were usually made at home and sent to the soldier in the field. They were usually lined with a medium to heavy weight cloth.. The frock is always good for an all-around impression, because the whole army throughout the course of the war used them. Before I go any farther, I would like to address the situation of buttons. On the previous two jackets, any different types were used. I would suggest a plain brass or block I. Block Is would be the best choice as they were used all over. Finally, the most prevalent is the RD II. It was a short waist length coat that was made of jean cloth (later war it was made out of cadet gray kersey) and was fully lined with lightweight cotton. They have a nine-button front, epaulets and belt loops. The epaulets were sewn down where the button is, making them non functional. This jacket was used by al of the ANV. They were issued with brass, block I buttons, possibly script I or Federal eagle buttons. Some soldiers, but not many, purchased state seal buttons. Federal coats were used, but not enough to be represented by the reenactor. Trousers You have two to three options for your trousers. These too were made out of Jean Cloth. Kersey was used to a limited extent, but not enough to be represented. A common practice in the 1850s was to have your trousers be darker or the same as your jacket. I would suggest the darker color, as it is not represented as much as it should be. Too many reenactors get the same color or Federal pants. If you had something made for you, chances are it might be the same color. When in doubt, go darker. Chances are, you weren�t issued replacement pants the same time as a new jacket. The best pattern to get is the Richmond Depot (RD). These features a buckle back and mule ear pockets. If you want a general ANV impression, the RD is always a good choice. Next would be of civilian pattern. These patterns generally seem to be the same as military pants, but slightly differ in some ways. When getting trousers, try to get bone buttons. They are not only authentic, but tin and pewter were not common for a southern impression. Bone buttons can be acquired cheaply off of Ebay or just browsing your local antique shop. Or do what I did, raid your grandmother's button collection. If nothing else, get a pair of Federal pants. These are over represented and must only be a last resort. Braces These are totally up to you. These were never an issue item. There are many different style and types. If you do not wan to get fancy, make yourself some simple ones. Many poor families did this. Basically, fold two long pieces of cloth in half, and half again. Then sitich down both side and add buttonholes at the right spot, easy suspenders. I have no other expertise I can offer. This is a matter of personal preference, just like it was back then. Hats There were many stiles of hats worn by the confederate army. In the early months of the war inder the cimmutation system, men brought what ever they had. They ranged from civilian slouch hats to wheel hats. As the war progressed, the government adopted a style borrowed from the french, the kepi. It was usually made of gray jean cloth and had a leather or oilcloth brim. The kepis were issued by the government as replacement hats. The issue of a hat is up to you. I personally prefer the civilian slouch hat. IF you decide to get one of those, do not get a wool felt, get the beaver felt. Shirt I have never heard of a specific confederate government pattern, but it has been issued. Your best bet is just a civilian shirt. Many men chose to take what they were used to. Many brought a shirt form home, wore the government issue first, threw it away when it was dirty, and wore the one from home. The civilian pattern can be made form many different materials. Probably the most common was checked cotton. Documented styles can be found from vendors or cheap 100% cotton checks form the fabric store will do. Shirts can be either hand stitched (prefered) or by machine (be sure it is done by a period sewing machine). Pre made factory goods were being sold all over at this time. But be sure the buttonholes are hand stitched, machine buttonholes did exist, but to a very litmited extent. Be sure to get bone or glass buttons, they are the most correct. Drawers This is a matter of personal preference. This is an item the public will never see. Many wear them to keep away the itch of the period fabrics. Some wear them in conjustion with their modern underwear or just by themselves. These were made from lightweight cotton or flannel for the winter months. They were full lenght and usually had ties at the bottom. These can be made very easily if you are able to handew or bought. It is all up to you. Socks Socks are at your discretion. It is an item the public doesn�t see, and probably won�t want to. I feel that socks need to be authentic. Period designs were of thin, knit cotton, much like modern socks, but higher. These can be bought form five to ten dollar per pair. If that doesn�t strike your fancy, buy yourself a pair of rag wool socks, which are perfectly fine. Brogans I know that shoes are basically the same. The only real differences are the slight change in design. Both sides made federal pattern brogans and were used widely. Get those first and then go into more researched shoes. STAY AWAY FROM RUSSET, that color was rarely used. After you have gotten your first pair, it is safe to buy confederate issue or civilian pattern brogans. Leathers This subject is up to you. It would be authentic to get all confederate leathers. Some of us want to keep our options open and switch sides, so we buy Federal pattern leathers. I would say buy Federal pattern leathers first. If you get a Federal Cartridge box, please punch the holes for the box plate. Even if you were issued it or aquired it from a yankee, it would always be there. As for a belt, buy a confederate issue. Three that need to used more are: forked tongue, georgia frame, and a roller buckle. These are very basic belts, and were cheap to make. Stay away form the oval CS, those were not used as much as we think they were. Once you know you will do confederate, slowly upgrade to confederate issue. I suggest an unmarked cap pouch and RD cartridge box. Be sure to get the box that matches the caliber of your musket. As the war progressed, more and more accoutrements were being made of painted cloth. It would be safe to get a painted cloth cartridge box strap. For beginners, Federal issue is the way to go. Canteen Once again, Federal is the way to go. Many soldiers immediately picked up a fed canteen in battle, as they were bigger and better made. When you buy a canteen, don�t settle for sutler row. Be sure to get a jean cloth cover of logwood or sumac, sky blue and dark blue were reserved for jackets and pants. If you do early war, you will need to get a leather sling. Do not get that from sutler row. You can get an authentic one for around $30. If it is after winter 1862, you will need a cotton strap. Replace the jack chain with a piece of hemp twine or jute cord. You may get confederate issue tin drum style, but many reenactors prefer the fed issue. Stay away from wooden canteen. Although they were issued to many troops, I have yet to see a good canteen that doesn�t leak or fall apart. Like I said before, Federal issue is the way to go. Haversack I personally like the Federal issue haversack. Those weren�t always available. Many troops picked up the whole haverack when they over ran troops, most would keep it if it were in better condition than theirs. There are many different confederate designs. They were made of cotton drill or linen. I would go with the Moses Alexander bag. It has been very well reproduced and can be made at home easily. If you do buy the federal haversack, please stay away form sutler row. They never do much research. They usually are too small and are painted wrong. Mess Kit This is some thing you need right away. You have to eat don�t you? You can buy a three tined fork and a knife. Talk to you pards on authentic designs. The best bet is to go to your antique store and buy some. All this can be substitute for a pocket knife. You can buy all three. As for a dipper (cup), ther are numerous designs. Be sure to go with an authentic vendor because sutler tin ware is very farb and isn�t very sturdy. For something to cook in, your cup works very well. If you would rather not, buy a stamped steel frying pan with a riveted handle. You can also get a canteen half in place of a plate and a frying pan(recomended). Many soldiers melted away the solder on their old canteens and had two circular halves. A stick can be used as a handle and it becomes a frying pan. Get your basics: fork, knife, pocket knife, dipper, canteen half. Sleeping Arrangements You can go the authentic way or the cheap way. Many feel that it is unnecessary to go the extra mile for a blanket, some don�t. You need a wool blanket. If you go down to your local surplus, buy a brown or gray 100% wool blanket. After that, you can upgrade to a confederate or US issue. Or you can get civilian blanket. All these are fine. Next you need a gum blanket/oil cloth. Both of these are authentic and either will work the same. This item is for you to decide. If your unit were on active campaign in your impression, I would go with a federal gum blanket (we used to get all their packs they left behind). Depending on your unit�s impression, you may buy a shelter half. You and a pard can each buy a half or you can own it all your self. Be sure to buy the early war version with sewn grommets, bone buttons and rope loops. Tents were never confederate issue and we usually got them form plundering Yankee packs. Sleeping is important, sleep how you are comfortable. Musket This is a touchy subject. Many reenactors will go out and buy one of two muskets. There are a lot more to choose form than two or three. A confederate impression allows the reenactor to have pretty much any musket he wants to use. You can have conversions all the way up to rifled muskets. I would say there are four main choices for a musket. You can get the .69 caliber 1842 Springfield. This was very common among southern troops and saw use the entire war. Another would be an 1855 Springfield. This was a tape primer gun, but most used caps instead. Many of these and 1842s were located in the south at the breakout of the war. Another would be a .58 caliber 1853 Enfield 3 band rifled musket. This gun was very common. They were purchased from England in vary large numbers. If you get one, maybe think of getting it marked as TOWER or the year being 1861 or 1862. The last one would be a CS Richmond or an 1861 Springfield. These were equally common. Richmond appeared later in the war due to the date of acquisition of the equipment. 1861 springfields were around because confederates usually picked up guns after a battle was over. This was because the Confederates were short on guns. Stay away form 2 bands. They were used but they are not safe for reenacting. Conversions are another story. Old flintlocks were converted to cap and ball. Many were employed in the confederate army. These would be a smart choice for an early-mid war impression, but there are no reproductions out. If you buy the real thing, it is very dangerous and it is stupid to ruin a relic. Weather you put a sling on your musket, it is up to you. But if you do, please get the correct sling. Nothing bothers me more than the wrong sling. When buying your musket, get your bayonet at the same time to ensure it fits right. Knapsack This is also a controversial item. It is an item of personal preference. During the war, many men carried their blankets in what is called a blanket roll. They simply rolled up their blanket, folded it in half, and tied the ends. This was usually done to lighten the load or when there was no knapsack. Federal troops were issued them. Confederate troops were issued them also. There are many different designs for the packs. A Federal Double bag design is always authentic. Many southerners came across the knapsacks when they found them, took what they wanted or took it all. That is the way confederates got tents too. There are numerous confederate designs. Choose wisely. Try to pick one that is documented and authentic. A knapsack can make or break your impression. I hope that the words of wisdom have helped you one way or another. Please e-mail me if you find any discrepancies. I am always looking for new information and ideas. |
|