produced by
the Ballyshannon Chamber of Commerce
The Bridge
This bridge crosses over the remains of the once upon a time majestic river, which has its origins in Cavan and winds its way through the lakes of Fermanagh to meet the Atlantic breakers at Ballyshannon. The ancient crossing point called �th Seanaidh (Ford of the Slope) was approximately one hundred yards upstream and in 1423 the O'Donnells, Chieftains of Tir Conaill erected a castle overlooking this strategic position. Nothing remains of this castle and the present bridge is of recent origin. The original bridge of fourteen arches was demolished the in the 1940s and the course of the river was changed to allow for the production of electricity at Cathaleen's Falls. Erected on the bridge is a plaque commemorating one of Ballyshannon's native poets, William Allingham (1824-1889). It bears the following inscription
"Here once he roved a happy boy
Along the winding banks of Erne;
And now please God with finer joy
A fairer world his eyes discern."
The Old Barracks
In 1770, the building known as the barracks was erected as military quarters. There are some colourful legends and stories associated with this historic building. The "Green Lady" so-called because of her green dress was an officer's wife. She was killed in a fracas in the Barracks and is believed to haunt the building. In 1793, Robert Stuart (who later became Lord Castlereagh) was billeted in the barracks. One very wet evening Castlereagh returned to the barracks after military manoeuvres. He ate a heavy meal and retired to his room where he had the comfort of a very large fire. During the night he experienced a nightmare or vision in which he believed he saw a naked child covered with blood emerge from the flames of the fire, and approached him growing more fiercesome as it did so. It then receded back into the fire. Years afterwards Castlereagh related the experience to Sir Walter Scott who later referred to it in his writings. William Allingham composed a poem entitled "Goblin Child of Ballyshannon":
"With a total, frozen start,
A bound a pausing of the heart,
Its size increasing more and more
At every step, until a dread
Gigantic form stood by his bed."
The plan of the building is curious, being T-shaped. The windows are sashed and widely spaced. The entrance arch of channelled stone is decorated with arms and cannon on the keystone. The interior is remarkable with a long spinal corridor eight feet wide and one hundred and ten feet long.
Old Custom House
Across the street from the Old Barracks, on the left is the building, which was originally built as a town house for Sir James Caldwell of Castlecaldwell. In 1786, it became the people of Archibald Murray, a merchant and shop owner of Ballyshannon. The house changed hands many times until finally it became the property of the Stephens Family who now have an extensive drapery business there.
Royal Bank
On your right as you proceed up the hill stands the building, formerly the Royal Bank of Ireland, which is now occupied by Gallogley's Jewellers Shop. This is an outstanding example of Scottish streetscape style with the clock turret and bellcotes dating back to 1878.
The Diamond
This area is a feature of many Irish towns. In days gone by the Diamond served as an open market place.
Allinghams House
Half way down on your left hand side stands the house where the poet, William Allingham, was born on March 19th, 1824. After an early career in the bank and later, in the Customs, he followed a literary career in England. Some of his best remembered works include "Adieu to Ballyshanny", "The Fairies", "Abbey Assaroe" and "Laurence Bloomfield".
Methodist Church
The original Methodist Church was built on the Main Street in 1791. This building still remains and is known locally as the Drama Centre. The Church on the Mall, a fine Gothic edifice, was built in 1899. Over the years, the Methodist congregation in the area has declined in numbers and the church is no longer in use as a place of worship.
Presbyterian Church
The first Presbyterian Church in Ballyshannon was built in College Lane in the eighteenth century. The present church on the Mall was built in 1840 and extended in 1880. The architectural state of the church is best described as Victorian Gothic with pinnacled gables and one large rose window.
Mall Quay
Once a famous port, this old quay is now a fisherman's haven. The scenery is panoramic particularly at sunset. The remains of Assaroe Falls can be seen from the Mall Quay and also the site of "Cas�n na gcuradh" (the heroes' path). It was here that Sir Conyers Clifford and his men made their escape after being repulsed at Ballyshannon by red Hugh O'Donnell on the 15th of August 1597. The old buildings around the Mall Quay were used as warehouses in the busy port in by-gone days.
Inis Saimer
This beautiful little island with its quaint blue house is situated in the middle of the estuary. Many an artist has attempted to capture the old world atmosphere of the island and its surroundings. Legend has it that Parthalon and his followers landed on the island about 1500bc. They were the first people to inhabit Ireland. In a fit of jealousy Parthalon killed his wife's pet hound called "Saimer". Feeling remorseful, he buried the hound on the island and called it "Inis Saimer". Later it was the island citadel of O'Muldory, O'Donnell and O'Gallagher chiefs.
Dungrevanan
(D�n Cremthanain: Grevananans Fort). This ancient promontory fort over the Mall and the estuary, opposite Inis Saimer, had its O'Donnell stronghold destroyed by the Connachtmen in 1410.
The road twists its way upward, passing the handball alley on your right. There are interesting views of Donegal Bay and the Finner sand dunes. Finally, the road joins the main road from Ballyshannon to Rossnowlagh. You turn left at this point and a few hundred yards along the road a sharp turn to the left leads you to the Abbey one of Ballyshannon's most historic and scenic areas.
Abbey Bridge
The narrow bridge over the Abbey River is believed to have been built by monks from the nearby abbey and is one of the oldest bridges in Ireland.
Catsby Cave
On the river bank to the rear of the graveyard stands a grotto-like cave called the Catsby. The mass rock inside the cave was used for the celebration of Mass during the Penal Days. Inside are two hollow stones for holy water.
The Old Mills
You now retrace your steps along the riverbank, back to the bridge and adjacent to it you see the remains of a water mill, which was used formerly for grinding corn. A little further on are two recently renovated mills. The upper mill was a flax mill and the lower a scutching mill. The Mills also have an audiovisual display in one and a coffee shop in the second
Abbey Assaroe
As you proceed to the summit of the hill turning to your right, you will see what remains of the famous Abbey Assaroe. The last remaining wall at the edge of the graveyard is densely overgrown with ivy. The abbey was founded by Flaherty O'Muldory, Lord of Cenel Conaill for the Cistercians in 1184. A small community of monks came from Boyle and selected the present site from the extensive lands granted by O'Muldory. This abbey soon became famous as a seat of learning. Some of the ruling families in Tir Conail became abbots and some became bishops in adjoining dioceses.
For some five hundred years this abbey continued to flourish but not without hindrance. On at least one occasion it was taken possession of by Sir Henry Dowera who garrisoned it with tow companies of mainly English soldiers. In 1606, when the Abbot Eugenius (Owen) O'Gallagher and Bernardus (Brian) O'Travers, a monk were slain by the occupying forces, the abbey was no longer held by the Cistercians and gradually fell into ruin. The grave of the last Abbott of the Abbey, Abbott Quinn can be seen in the graveyard and anyone interested in learning more about the Abbey's history should look up "Abbey Assaroe Abbey of the Morning Star" by Geraldine Carville.
Thatch Pub
In Bishop Street you will observe a quaint building. This is an old fisherman's pub and is more than one hundred and fifty years old. A place of leisure, one can enjoy an evening of Irish traditional music in front of an open fire.
St. Anne's Church
St Anne's Church of Ireland churchyard is situated on the high hill of Mullach na S� (Hill of the Fairies) overlooking the panorama of "Saimer's Green Vale". This ancient hill has a colourful history of its own. Gaelic tradition makes it the burial place of the legendary High King Hugh; son of Badurn who, we are told was drowned in the falls of Aodh Rua, Assaroe. St. Patrick in the fifth century visited the hill. The first church of the colonists to be erected here was built in the Market Yard by Sir Henry Folliott, close to his castle. In 1691, a second church was built in Mullaghnashee. The present church was erected in 1841. In the graveyard beside the church, many distinguished people are buried, including the poet, William Allingham, whose cremated ashes were transported from Woking, England where he died in 1889.
Lieutenant McGovern of the Northumberland Infantry stationed in Ballyshannon was killed in the last duel in the area, which took place in 1802. He was buried with full military honours in Mullaghnashee graveyard.
Prof. Robert Crawford, a renowned engineer, was buried here in 1914. The church is floodlit and it's prominent position in the town in now noticeable both day and night.
Anchor
St Joseph's Church.
St. Joseph's Catholic Church was built in 1835. The Church was reconstructed in 1886. It has a tower of three stages with a pointed slate roof. Adjacent to the Church is the Fr. Tierney Park, which commemorates a former curate of this parish who died as a result of his imprisonment by Communists in China, in 1931. Across the road is a secondary school, which was originally built as a fever hospital.
Workhouse
A few hundred yards further on is the old Workhouse, built in 1842. In recent years, it was modernised and turned into an old people's home. In the early 1800's, poverty was common in Ireland. Many relied on a small potato plot to feed themselves and their families. As the potato crop often failed in some areas, death, sickness, poverty and emigration followed. In 1838, a poor law was passed by Parliament, which set up workhouses in Ireland.
Accommodation, food and living conditions were made as unattractive as possible, in order to discourage paupers form coming to the workhouses. As the Great Famine soon followed, most workhouses became overcrowded and could not carry out properly the work they were set up to do.
Rock Barracks
In the 1798 period, the Rock Barracks was built and a strong military force, both cavalry and infantry, was stationed in Ballyshannon. It was at this time also that the Star Fort was constructed at Mullaghnashee. In 1798, the English garrison in Sligo, retreated to Ballyshannon when General Humbert marched North after victories at Foxford, Castlebar and Collooney.
You have now completed the trail