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Puerto Ed�n (13-16 Dec. 1999)
Lucia was the day to put on special plasters below our ears in order to alleviate sea sickness. It seemed to work. The semiopen waters southwest of Isla de Chilo� were quite shaky, and in the really open waters at Golfo de Penas outside the Taitao peninsula the beds felt like cradles in the night. Nonetheless, the moderate feeling of sickness that emerged never became uncomfortable. A three day boat trip is quite long compared to the traditional Swedish ferry trips to Finland. The variation between days is moderate. Meals are served at regular hours. We meet people from different countries. As always Rob and Christy represent Australia. Two nice 'Stockholmare', Eric and Carina, speek swedish! France is personalized by our room mate Gilbert who is travelling the world to find out what makes people happy. I'm not sure what he learnt from us.
One might expect that the surrounding scenery on a trip like this would be immensely impressive. The problem is the weather. Although the first evening offered a magical sunset over a myriad of small islands (see above), most of the trip was partially spoiled by the typically bad patagonian weather (see e.g. Golfo de Penas left). Even so, the part south of the Taitao peninsula, is immensely dramatic, in some ways even more so when the bad weather magnifies the sense of wilderness and inhospitality. With constant storm and new snow almost down to the water line at the beginning of the summer one can understand why this area is so desolate.

Imagine that you travel 1200 kilometres and see only three signs of intelligence on the way:
(1) Puerto Ed�n, the fishing village (see below left)
(2) Puerto Ed�n, the boat we stay on (see below right)
(3) Dolphins (no photo available).

No wonder that the final destination, Puerto Natales, seems like a metropol with only a couple of thousand inhabitants. One of them, Se�ora Maria, offers beds in her home for a really nice price. Well, it was a bit off-center, but the home-made breakfast was awesome after a cosy night. Oops, the bus is already here! Let's leave for the Torres del Paine national park!
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Torres del Paine
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