The Bewitching Hartz Mountains of Germany
April 30: Walpurgisnacht

 

The Hartz mountains of central Germany contain something which will be of interest to anyone interested in Halloween - Witches. The first thing a visitor notices when they enter into the Hartz mountains and stop in one of the towns, is that there are witches everywhere - witches in store fronts, witches on newspapers, hundreds of handmade witches flying on broomsticks hanging in every shop. There are bottles of drinks with names such as Harzer Hexenritt (Hartz Witch-ride), Brocken Hexe (Brocken Witch - "after a Harz family recipe"), all with colorful pictures of witches on them. There are postcards, books of Hartz legends, stories, and history, woodcarvings, glasses, dolls, pictureframes, plates - all dealing with the central issue of witches.
 
When one digs deeper into these traditions, by reading some of the local brosures and books, and by visiting some of the key areas, the picture becomes a little clearer. The people of the Hartz mountains preserve many colorful and old traditions for holidays around the year - which they have always celebrated. The holiday that interests us is on April 30th, known in the Hartz mountains as Walpurgis Night. This is of course, exactly 6 months after Halloween. The villagers of the Hartz mountains have announcements and posters everywhere for the locations of the Walpurgis Night festivals. There are locations at various places throughout the Hartz mountains, ranging from the Brocken mountain in the center of the Hartz mountains, to the Hexentanzplatz ("Witches Dancing Place"), in the east, in former East Germany.
 
Of course, the Brocken mountain, the highest mountain in the Hartz mountain range, is the mountain that was traditionally associated with witches, as their central meeting place during Walpurgis Night. However, when one looks for actual historical sites for meeting places, one finds two outstanding locations: Wurmberg Mountain, next to the town of Braunlage, the second highest mountain in the Hartz, and the Hexentanzplatz, on top of the mountains by the town of Thale, at the east end of the Hartz mountain range. In these two locations are found rings of stones and cleared areas, and even "theaters" made out of stone, where hundreds of people could have meet. In fact, in Thale, hundreds, or even thousands of people still do meet there on Walpurgis Night, coming from miles around to see concerts and theatrical presentations, and to view the huge bonfire on top of the mountain, one of many bonfires burning throughout the Hartz mountains on that night.
 
There are many things which go into the atmosphere of the Hartz mountain traditions. The mountains are full of mines, and mining lore, along with gemstones and metals, are found everywhere. There is also a huge variety of wildlife in the mountains, some of which, such as the goat and the wild boar, was connected with the folklore of the witches. The books you can find in the Hartz discuss all of this colorful tradition, asking such question as "How did the witches learn to fly", and suggesting which local plants they may have used. Here and there among the mountains are also found writing in ancient runes, carved into stone. And, as we already mentioned, the huge bonfires at night with hundreds of villagers and neighbors gathered around are open to all.

Some sites from inside Walpurgis Hall, in Thale.
Invitation to
Walpurgis Night 99, in Thale.
A restaurant at
Schierke Train Station - last stop before the Brocken.

Postcards:

(Click on postcard to see the next one - 10 in all)

E-mail:
Jim Howard

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