PCT 2006 Crater Lake to Willamette Pass
August 4, 2006 Friday -
At 7 AM I caught a ride with Al and Eloise to Portland where they left me off at Marti’s. It was her birthday and she was soon to be taken out by two guys for lunch at Taco Bell. I was invited to join them but kept myself on task and after a short visit headed the 10 blocks over to the Union Train Station where I caught a bus called the Breeze. After several stops the bus was completely full. We arrived in Prineville in late afternoon where Frank met me at the McDonalds bus stop. I enjoyed a quiet evening with Charlotte’s good home cooked meal and a good walk with Frank in their quiet neighborhood. Frank and I worked on his web site some and then we called it a night.
August 5, 2006 Saturday -
We departed at 6:10 AM after a restful nights sleep. Frank and Charlotte chose the scenic route through a very scenic canyon where we were the only car for miles. We continued south and enjoyed a small town restaurant breakfast. We reached Crater Lake National Park and started the hike from the Crater Lake Lodge along the rim trail. Frank and Charlotte joined me for ½ mile or so. There was smoke at Crater Lake due to fires in California. There was also a fire in Crater Lake National park which they were fighting which had the normal PCT closed although the alternate rim trail is likely more used as it has better views of the lake.
Right off I met Cadence, a through hiker, and we walked together for half a mile. She had skipped some of the Sierra’s due to a stress fracture in her foot and the large amount of snow. She rightfully was worried about my lack of water and said it was 26 miles to the next water. I thought there was water near the north end of Crater Lake. I decided to head down Lightning Springs trail ¾ mile to the springs to fill my gallon water jug along with another quart I always carry. The water came right out of the ground in a nice clear cold spring. I also had lunch at the spring as it was noon. On my way back to the rim trail I watched a nice buck wander in the meadow just ahead of me.
With this 8 pounds of water along with my pack with 2 weeks of food I was carrying about 46 pounds. When I returned home my pack was 27.5 pounds with little water being carried or needed. I burned the novel I as I read it to make my pack lighter.
Some of the walk around the rim of the lake is on the trail and some along the road. By 3:30 I am ½ mile north of what they call the north junction at 7025 feet elevation. At 4:50 I observed my first PCT sign. At 5:00 I reached the Grouse Mountain Camp Site where I took a rest break. My socks are off and my body is taking a beating with this pack and maybe the heat. I started reading my novel. I left this camp at 6:30PM and passed a sign indicating I was leaving Crater Lake National Park at about 7PM. At 7:30PM I started a dry camp 30 feet off the PCT. At 8:50 I was enjoying a meal of instant potatoes with green beans and beef chunks. I also had an energy drink called Emer’gen-C, a potassium pill and 2 doctor strength anti-inflammatory pills.
The Emer’gen-C was recommended by our Colombia team for the work down there. The potassium seems to keep me from getting leg cramps which are a real concern for me. The anti-inflammatory pills keep my knees from swelling after a hard day. I used the anti-inflammatory pills only twice. The Emer’gen-C I used maybe 5 times as it is kind of fun as it fizzes a little. The potassium almost every dinner time as leg cramps frighten me a little. (I did not have a leg cramp, fortunately!) At 9:10 I was in the tent and it was almost dark with a slight sprinkle of rain outside.
Hiked 14 miles today.
August 6, 2006 Sunday -
I jumped out of bed at 6:30 AM. (Jumped = yah right) I slept well but naturally did have to roll from side to side every hour and ½ due to thin mattress. Enjoyed a meal of Zoom mush with dried blueberries and brown sugar. (Zoom cooks in 1 minute after the water is boiling.) I alternated breakfasts between Zoom and Farina which cooks in 3 minutes after boiling. I also alternated between dried blueberries and craisins which are dried cranberries. I always added brown sugar. The dried milk I had was awful so after two cups I dumped the rest in the upturned root mass of a blown down tree and covered it with dirt! The routine was get up fix hot cereal and set aside to cool. Then break down tent, stuff sleeping bag and get half packed. Eat and finish packing. I would typically be ready to hike in one hour.
I reached highway 138 and rested by the water cache at 10:33 AM. I forgot who placed the 15 milk bottle gallon containers of water there. I do remember they hiked the complete trail in 2003. The through hikers call people who do this “trail angels”. I helped myself to almost ½ gallon and was very glad to get the water. At about 1:50 PM I ran into Frank and Charlotte who brought my walking stick. The trail was not rough to the point I needed it but I found it does help a lot on even an easy trail. I know I rely on the walking stick especially crossing streams and such. It was good to see them. They had hiked several miles up the trail looking for the trail to Mount Thielsen. At about 3:00 I met a family who had climbed up Mount Thielsen to near the top when they were chased off the mountain by lightning. They could hear humming in the rocks and feel the their hair stand on end. They were all excited as they had experienced quite an adventure. They seemed close as a family at that moment and were joking and having a good time. This was at a narrow pass and while talking to them I almost headed straight across the pass and down trail 1456 which would have taken me down to Diamond Lake. They kindly pointed out the PCT does not go straight there but turns right, behind a rock and maintains elevation. Wow, lucky for me they were there! A little further up the trail it began to rain. I crawled under a tree to wait out the worst surge. Continuing on I reached Theilsen Creek at 5:10. Across the snowfield which bridges the creek I found a couple nice campsites. A father and his son Harry, who was about 12, arrived at the same time and camped 200 feet away.
I had rice for dinner. I alternated dinners with instant mashed potatoes, then rice. Both type meals with dried beef and dried onion. I mixed in some instant gravy on several nights. The green beans I included for several nights, then I saw some mold and tossed them. On two nights I had spaghetti with instant tomato sauce. It was a very good meal however the spaghetti takes 15 minutes to soften.
6:50 PM I crawled into the tent to rest my sore feet and read. (This also provided relief from the mosquitoes which were present.) It was rather cool outside however. I read the novel Nimitz Class by Patrick Robinson. I found it easier walking in the cooler weather this afternoon.
Hiked 14 miles
August 7, 2006 Monday -
Up at 7 after a good night’s rest. Took the day off as I found a 1 inch blood blister on both heals. Took a small knife and tried to bleed one but it would not bleed. Meandered around camp in my super light sandals. Went up higher into some open area overlooking the snowfield and enjoyed the view of the snowfield along with the view of Mount Thielsen. At 10:27 AM I visited my neighbors. They were leaving, heading to Maidu Lake about 14 miles further north. We had a good visit. They are hiking portions of the PCT each weekend and the father took this whole week off. Then I went down to the creek and scrubbed some of the dust off, washed socks, shorts and shirt and simply relaxed in the sun and the heather, reading my book next to the music of the softly flowing stream. Purified water and drank plenty of the cold, cold water.
At noon I had a bagel which I enjoyed every day. The first 3 days I had lunch meat and cheese and after that just cheese until the last couple days just the bagel.
No one came up the trail all day. Then in the afternoon I heard on Public Radio that a thunder storm warning had been issued for Lane County with nickel sized hail and 60 mph winds forecast.
3:33 PM I was chased back to camp by thunder and lightning. Placed some dry meat in the cooking pot to re-hydrate for a couple hours. Heard rocks falling occasionally on the rock slide on the adjacent mountain side. Rested in the tent away from the mosquitoes.
I ate at 5 PM followed by some fancy mint hot chocolate while listening to thunder in the next valley. There was a chill in the air and I had a light jacket on which made it comfortable.
Then at 7:37 PM a hail storm with ½ inch hail drove me to the tent! The hail was loud, pelting the tent then, rolling down the rain flap into a ridge at the edge of the tent. The ground was about ½ covered in white. The hail let up by about 7:42. I could hear the water in the creek and hear the gust of wind in the trees yet I felt quite secure and warm in the tent. I got out of the tent and moved the hail away from the edge of the tent so I would stay dryer when it melted.
0 miles hiked.
August 8 Tuesday -
Up at 6:19 AM after a good sleep. Not too much rain during the night. The weather is cloudy and I have a jacket on. Just as I got my pack on I noticed a fellow just heading into camp so off with the pack. This was at 7:32 AM which means he must have hit the trail at the very break of daylight. His trail name is Deacon and normal name is Tom Fisher. He immediately dropped his pack and mixed a protein - milk solution to drink. He figured his pack was 35 pounds plus water making it 45-50 pounds. He was not young like many of the through hikers. We talked for 5 minutes or so then I headed out.
The cool weather made for great hiking. At 9:40 AM I reached the highest point of the PCT for Washington and Oregon, 7560 feet. Then trail headed south some which had me worried for awhile but eventually I saw a PCT marker and then the trail turned north again. 3 horses, 2 with riders and a pack horse came through. They were moving fast and looked good.
At 12:40 I reached Maidu Lake which was 0.9 miles off the PCT but I needed the water. I could see the horses had camped there the night before. The sun is now starting to break through. There is no one else at the lake. The lake looks like a lowland lake with trees all around and no steep banks. The water is clean, but there are a groups of large pollywogs in the water. My feet are my main limitation although water sources play a major factor also, so decided to camp there.
I read a lot, resting on my sleeping pad and was able to wash in the lake after the sun came out. I strolled leisurely around the lake in my sandals. The sun set at 7:30 with blue sky and an occasional gust.
13 mile day.
August 9 Wednesday -
Mist is coming off the lake this morning. Ate breakfast sitting on stump with a backrest at the lakes edge. Had a good sleep and was the only one at the lake. It is a blue sky day. By 10:00 I was 6 miles from the trail head to Maidu Lake at Tolo Camp which is also the trail head for Six Horse Springs 1/3 mile east. I rested there for 50 minutes with shoes off reading my book. At Windigo Pass, which has road access, I met a couple that were taking a day hike probably to Cowhorn Mountain. They volunteered some water as they knew through hikers always needed water. I accepted 1/3 gallon which was real nice of them. They had not heard of the Windigo Lakes. At 2:26 PM I reached one of the Windigo Lakes which is 10 minutes north of Windigo Pass and just an additional 10 minute cross country walk east of the PCT. Another nice lake with trees all around.
I was able to get into the water up to my chest and wash off some. Again I took a stroll with my sandals on. I suspect the trail used to come here but has been diverted to save the vegetation. Seemed like a nice place. I camped alone. The mosquitoes became bothersome at dusk so climbed in the tent early.
14 mile day
August 10 Thursday -
I slept well although I was on a little slope and the ground seemed hard. Started hiking with jacket on although it is a blue sky day. Reached Summit Lake and found a campsite right on the shore by 1:15 PM. (Hiked before the main heat of the day.) There is a road access to this lake and met and spoke to one couple. Saw another groups’ campsite. Later in the day, while reading and resting on the sandy shore, a couple came by in 2 canoes that were tied together and they had an electric motor silently moving them up the lake. Looks like they had all their camping gear in the canoes and were looking for remote campsite. They were just 20 foot off shore. We shared a greeting.
While I was enjoying a spaghetti meal a doe walked past just 20 feet from camp. I slowly followed it for 10 minutes while finishing my meal. 5:20 PM finished my book today! They used a Mark 48 ADCAP torpedo which is what I used to work on. I can hear no one. Maybe only 2 cars drove by all afternoon.
Hiked 13 miles today.
August 11 Friday -
Slept well. Left camp at 7:00 AM. Mike, a through hiker, passed me with clicking walking poles. As he left me he was trotting as he was trying to catch up with some other through hikers. I hiked until 11:30 when I broke for lunch. Shoes and socks off with head on sleeping bag which was still tied to pack. I had a perfect view of Diamond Peak while laying next to trail in the heather eating lunch. Elevator came up the trail and we talked for 10 minutes. He got that name because he climbed the hills fast. He was 46 years old and quit his Silicon Valley job to hike the PCT which was a boyhood dream of his. He had hiked straight through from Mexico. His pack is 35 pounds and he hikes 30-35 miles a day.
At 1:30 I reached an unnamed lake 200 feet down from the trail. Although tired, I selected the little used campsite which was 100 foot from the lake as I think this was a wilderness area. The main well used campsite is right on the lake. I put on sandals and strolled around part of the lake and over to a pond close by. Then I walked down a trail which I could eventually see what I think was Yoran Lake off in the lower distance. I dangled my feet in the water while enjoying the sunny afternoon. Wished I had a book to read. Two different groups went by on the trail but neither stopped at the lake. It was a rather pretty little lake.
I figure I hike 6 hours a day at 2 miles an hour taking almost an hour for lunch and rest. At 10:00 PM I saw a great shooting star with a large tail.
Hiked 13 miles today.
August 12 Saturday -
My watch battery apparently gave out during the night due to the cold. I had removed it from my wrist. Per the light out I likely got up at about 5 AM and broke camp by 6. I slept fine and awoke to blue sky. I
hiked the 6.2 miles out to Willamette Pass at highway 58. I stopped in at the ski lodge and found out there are no buses available. I gave Linda a call for the first time and let her know I was heading home. I walked out to the highway and headed west a 500 feet to a brake check turnout and it took about 10 minutes to hitch a ride. A 69 year old gentleman stopped who had been researching some environmental conditions of a lake in eastern Oregon. We had a great time sharing life and stories on our trip. He was heading to Portland and volunteered to drive me to Portland. I could have caught a Greyhound from Eugene. I bought him a real nice breakfast and had a great omelet myself. It was really well done. He had heard of the good food at this average looking restaurant. In Portland I helped him unload test hardware and many concrete anchors out of his boat and truck. We then unloaded the canoe and unhitched the boat and trailer. After a coke break and adding oil to his newer truck he took me the short distance to the Greyhound terminal. The ride worked out really well for me and also for him it sounded like. There sure are a lot of nice people in this world!At the Greyhound terminal I paid $29 for the 5:00 PM bus to Seattle and since I had 2 hours to wait I ordered a hamburger meal there at the terminal. Just after completing the hamburger I heard an announcement that anyone wishing to be on an express bus to Seattle line up at gate 1. So with a pack on my back, fries in one hand and a coke and walking stick in the other I hurried to gate one. I missed the luggage inspection but did get on the bus and we left just after 4 PM. There was some traffic but did get to Seattle much earlier than the 9:30 PM which my ticket said. I walked through town, tried to catch a free bus but was apparently standing in the wrong place because the bus did not stop. I noticed I walked as fast as traffic anyway and ended up walking right on the Bainbridge ferry without a wait. I called Linda from the Bainbridge terminal as the Kitsap Transit does not run that late. Linda came at about 9:30 PM and Nate and Deann had just arrived at the house when we got there. We had a good reunion and good conclusion of the trip. My pack weight 27.5 pounds at the end of the trip.
Trip total 81 miles.
Next hike better boots and better dried milk and maybe a better water container that does not slosh. I must add it was a good trip and very enjoyable.
PCT 2006.wps
August 21, 2006