My pack weighed 41 pounds at departure less water, bread rolls, rain jacket and light coat. So about 45 pounds. Linda dropped me off at White Pass at 12:48 AM in a cool drizzle. At the last moment due to the weather I added a rain jacket and light coat. Later I wished I had only added the rain jacket as I never used both together. At 1:44 PM I reached Goat Rocks Wilderness and Hall Lake. I can hear the rain drops but they are not penetrating the forest cover. The sun is feebly attempting to break through, At 3:44 PM reached the Shoe Lake Trail and can see Shoe Lake 10 minutes down. There is a sign saying no camping in the valley due to overuse. Then someone scratched in under the sign "due to over use by the boy scouts". Met an old timer on the trail, hiking from California. He wants to make it to Manning Provincial Park this year. He also said there was so much fog on Old Snowy Mountain that he lost the trail quite a bit. Reached Hidden Springs Trail #1117 at 4:47 PM and reached Tieton Pass at 6:24 PM where I set up camp. Hiked 11.5 miles today. (GPS 46 33.66, 121 25.12) This is only 6.46 miles from White Pass per the GPS which is the distance the crow flies. I camped at the pass which is the junction of the North Fork Tieton trail 1118, PCT & Clear Fork Trail 61. There is no water at the pass so I headed 2 minutes further up the PCT without a pack and met Steve who is a through hiker, meaning he is hiking from Mexico to Canada. He also had trouble following the trail around Old Snowy Mountain due to the clouds and the blowing wind with ice crystals. There was a couple 300 feet through the forest from my camp which I could hear but not see. They were rather noisy at times squealing and laughing. Steve said there was no water up the trail so I told him there was a small creek 4 minutes down the trail, where he ended up camping. He went up to visit the couple and I went back to set up camp to cook dinner of rehydrate peas and carrots in the same pot as spaghetti with a white sauce. While dinner cooled I headed down to get water using a purifier, just before dark. Typically I headed to bed at dark which is 8:00 PM, then I read by a small flashlight which uses two AA batteries which seem to last for at least a hike. Then I listen to the 4 ounce radio for awhile to keep in contact. I usually fall asleep about 9:00 then wake up at 12:30 AM and read a chapter or so turnover and fall asleep again for several hours and repeat this till daylight (7:00 AM).
Every night turned very dark at 8:00 then about 12:30 AM the moon came out to lighten the night up some. This night it was especially nice to see the moon which indicated the weatherman may be right in that the weather will get better. Really cold outside. Causes my teeth to chatter if I leave the warmth of the sleeping bag.
September 6 Day 2 -I got up at 7:15 although I was comfortable enough to remain in bed longer. It is 38 degrees out and I put on all my clothes except the rain jacket. Two nylon pants one with a cotton liner, T-shirt, long sleeve flannel shirt, sweat shirt and light jacket were enough to keep me comfortable. I had frosted shredded wheat for breakfast with dry milk. I would rather have zoom hot mush except as they say on the trail "I am trying to eat my pack light". There is an overcast this morning after a clear night. The sun is trying to break through so the weather looks promising. Two camouflaged bow hunters crept into camp as I was breaking camp. They are looking for elk. They split, one heading north and the other south on the PCT. I broke camp at 8:15 and continued south. Started the climb to Old Snowy Mountain. Old Snowy took on a personality on this hike. It is the highest point of the PCT in Washington and the weather there can be quite extreme. In most conversations Old Snowy came up as they were trying to get up there to see the views or get past it. Climbing till 9:42 AM I caught up to the hunter that had headed south. He said two bull elk had just been brought out by hunters on horseback. He himself had already got an elk earlier in the season and was looking for deer. He is older and working out of Forks for a helo logging company. Further along I saw another bow hunter. At 10:09 AM I saw a bear below the trail and took a picture. At 10:42 I appear to be getting closer to Old Snowy and put on jacket as the wind (about 20 mph) and the cold are starting to be felt. At 11:14 the GPS says Old Snowy is 2.13 miles south and my elevation is 6446 feet. I had a lunch of a bread roll with lunch meat and cheese. At 12:07 it is windy and cold but the sun is trying to get through. Walked several miles on a narrow ridge. The wind was strong enough to push my walking stick enough so as I had to force it in place. Had to lean into the wind some which is hard when the wind is gusty. On the ridge walk I met a couple that had to be 70 years old. She vented some about the snow they had to cross and how steep and icy the snow was. She had to let her husband use one of her walking sticks to help get across. They looked tired. Just before the steep snow patch and Packwood Glacier I met a group that had hiked up and over bypassing the snow patch and the glacier. They highly recommended going over for the view is so good. The book also recommends going up and over to enjoy the view. I was tired but did inch my way up the very steep loose shale final ascent to the top. What a reward the sun came out full and the place instantly warmed up. There is a nook in the rock at the top designed for one to rest and enjoy the height and the view. I enjoyed a Baby Ruth candy bar and after about 5 minutes of slowly venting a plastic bottle of kiwi-strawberry sparking water finally was able to drink the whole bottle. 1 pound 4 ounces which ought to make the pack lighter, at least when I am not carring extra water! Really was the right celebration for the moment. Feels like one is really at the top and there are views in all directions. Took lots of pictures. The GPS position is 46 30.89, 121 27.34 with the elevation indicating 7656 feet. Now I am warm with just a T-shirt on. Spent almost 2 hours at the top resting with shoes off. No other people around. Now for the descent all the way to the Columbia River.
Climbed back down from the top which took 10 minutes and reached the PCT after bypassing the steep snow field and Packwood Glacier. Then in 20 more minutes met two older ladies, probably my age. (Ha) I suspect they were from the horse camp below and had day walked there. I heard one of them say they were going to start an exercise program. They were interested in what was ahead for them and where I had come from and how much food I was carring. I did not remove my pack but we did talk some. They were close to an old shelter which is made out of piled rocks. The roof is gone now but I suppose it would provide some shelter although there was no water. At 5:11 PM found I had gotten off the PCT. I now know where it happened. The sign was out of the ground and held up by some rocks. I hesitated thinking someone should reposition it as the sign was misleading but since I had not been there before I should not be the one to fix it. Good thing for the next guy because I headed the wrong way. I kept going straight on the most developed and most used trail but at that point the PCT turned and went onto what appeared to be the least used trail. There would not have been a problem if I was heading north like most everyone else but I was heading south. I ended up on trail 96 and after heading down a long long ways and finally realizing I must have made a mistake I met a couple and asked them if this was the PCT. They of coarse said no so since I was near water I filled up on water including the extra quart container I had which allowed me enough water to dry camp. Then I turned around and headed back up the trail! I must have hiked an extra three miles and 2000 feet of elevation, at least it seemed like it. I eventually caught trail 97 alternate which got me back to the PCT and dry camped at 6:30 PM, at a rather hidden campsite off a viewpoint overlooking the valley just north of Cispus Pass. GPS position is 46 29.23, 121 27.06. 5984 feet elevation. Enjoyed one half a box of macaroni and cheese with dried vegetables added. Set up the tent while the dinner was cooling which works great. Hiked only 9 miles today down the PCT.
September 7 Day 3 -Up at 7:00 with clear skies although there are clouds down in the valley. 40 degrees. Had shredded wheat again for breakfast. I feel good and am anxious to be under way. By 7:39 broke camp and passed a gal and 4 guys all spread by 3 minutes who were all through hikers. They stayed at the head of the valley but suffered heavy winds through the night. Interestingly I did not have much wind at all just a half mile away. Passed several nice creeks one with a very nice waterfall. Drank lots of water and refilled my supply as water was not readily available for awhile. A 20 mph wind helped push me up the hill toward Cispus Pass. Had to fight the wind only for a short way. Then just before reaching the pass I saw what looked like a clear sphere a foot in diameter. It looked like it was only 100 foot in the air. I was thinking of chasing it if it came down so I could examine it. Then as a couple of minutes passed I could clearly see it was a large jet 15,000 feet above me and was just reflecting brightly in the morning sun. At 8:35 AM reached Cispus Pass at an elevation of 6473 feet.
By 9:47 reached the second Sheep Lake. Met a single hiker who has almost completed the Washington State PCT. At 11:27 overlooked Waptus Lake and at 12:16 reached the intersection with Waptus Lake trail #101. At 3:00 PM reached a pond. Saw a slight trail and followed it and found a lake that had some depth and size. Climbed in the water and washed off thoroughly but was too cold to actually swim. Rested there for quite awhile in the sun. This side trail used to be part of the PCT. Now this lake seems very remote. Observed some garbage that must have been left there 10 years ago at least. There is virtually no garbage on the PCT itself. People are really careful up there. I re-supplied my water supply. (GPS 46 29.15, 121 27.05)
At 4:47 PM reached Coleman Weed Patch trail #420 and drank 20 oz of water I had carried from the water fall that morning. At 7:00 PM reached camp (GPS 46 21.27, 121 31.01) The GPS says the last camp is 9.5 miles back and a road is 0.4 miles ahead. Had rice with vegetables and the last of my lunch meat. Then I had cocoa and made Crystal Lite to drink. This camp looks like a hunters camp. It is a very flat meadow with a round of rocks for the fire pit and a small creek nearby. I have been meeting a lot of hikers. Met a couple in their 30's who have also hiked most of Washington. They are planning to skip the southern portion as there is little of interest. Three quarters of the hike today was downhill. Hiked 19 miles today down the PCT. I carried an extra quart of water since 3:00 PM since I thought I might be in a dry camp tonight. This country is mild compared to yesterday. There are no bugs!
September 8 Day 4 -35 degrees and blue sky this morning. Had zoom mush with raisins and brown sugar. Broke camp at 8:11 AM. At 10:00 AM reached Lava Springs. This was written up in the book as the best water on the PCT. The 1 foot flow of water comes out of the end of a lava flow. I measured the water temperature at 39 degrees. People had developed a 10 foot diameter pool for the clear water but the water was too cold to even put your feet in. A kind person had left a huge container of tang there so after filling up by drinking almost a quart of water I made some Tang for the rest of the day. They also left a health bar there so I enjoyed that also. There is still plenty of Tang for the next 20 hikers also.
12:35 PM reached Highline trail #114 and had lunch by a shallow pond 2 minutes up trail #114. Removed my boots and just rested for awhile. I had a spectacular view of Mount Adams right there and was able to lean back in the meadow. 10 feet away was water to purify from the pond and also to cool my feet. While there 3 people on horses came through. I am not sure if they saw me or not. Then a couple came through. By 4:45 I reached the third Sheep Lake. It is too hot to be in the sun. Per the GPS I hiked 10.1 miles. Hiked 15 miles today down the PCT. The elevation is 5795 feet. This lake is very small. Several groups were camped down below in a meadow. Three guys from Battle Ground were in the main camp on the lake and I climbed around the lake and camped in a spot 100 feet above the lake. Washed 3 pairs of socks. While there I could see Mount Adams very close by. I heard 3 rock slides on the mountain and could see the dust trail of the slides. I enjoyed macaroni with vegetables then made pudding. Was able to listen to a quarter of Cougar football where the Cougars were winning big time.
September 9 Day 5 -Left camp at 8:23 AM looks like another nice day with lots of blue sky. Met a hiker laying on a pad at a trail junction reading. He is from Alabama and apparently has a palm planner or something. He records his journal and sends the information to his brother who puts it on the web. Says he makes about 25 miles a day. 10:23 reached a trail to road 5603. 1:25 PM crossed road 23 and one half mile later here was a creek with 25 cans of pop laying in a pool and a note saying for PCT hikers to help themselves. There was another hiker there washing off who said the wild strawberries had delayed him some further south. I enjoyed a mountain dew. It really helped with my energy level. Real nice treat. At 3:56 crossed road 8810. At 5:30 found Trout Lake Creek Camp. Nice flow of water with bridge to cross. Met a through hiker who had just started hiking again. He had taken time off to recover from shin splints. He spent his time off with a hiker from Portland who is the one who put the pop in the creek. Went up stream and found a pool to wash. Used soap and even washed my hair. Nice camp with big logs cut in half and standing on post to use as a table. (GPS position is 46 08.01, 121 40.91 and the GPS says I have 34 miles to go to Columbia River.) Heated up some of that good potato soup with vegetables for dinner. Hiked 15 miles today.
September 10 Day 6 -Had cream of wheat for breakfast. Hit the trail 8:00 AM. There was something, probably an elk crashing slowly though the woods at day break this morning. 10:00 AM reached road 8851 by Big Mosquito Lake which I did not see. 12:25 crossed dirt road 24 and at 1:00 was at the south junction of the PCT and trail 107. At 4:03 I took a swim in Deer Lake and ate huckleberries. Had a nice campsite selected and took a short walk to see what was over the low ridge and met two bow hunters. Talked for awhile. They said Bear Lake was close and was a much deeper and nicer lake. So grabbed the pack straightened up, leaned forward and headed south to Bear Lake. Was there by 4:30. The camp site was on a peninsula right at the edge of the water. Read lots in the evening sun before setting up camp and cooking. Had rice with vegetables and dried meat followed by cocoa. No one else on the lake. GPS position is 46 01.17, 121 47.29. Hiked 15 miles today.
September 11 Day 7 -Was listening to the radio at 6:50 and heard the World Trade Center and the Pentagon had been hit by planes. Talk about crummy news! Had oatmeal for breakfast. Listened to the radio most of the day. By 9:09 was at Blue Lake. 11:54 arrived at the fourth Sheep Lake. This is really a pond. Purified the water. Can tell there are no planes in the sky due to reaction to the terrorists. At 2:34 arrived at Crest Campground and at 5:10 found half a picnic table with a spring close by and a trickle of water from the spring. Made camp. Hiked 19 miles today. GPS position is 45 52.00, 121 47.19
September 12 Day 8 -
Slept in mosquito portion of tent only. Heard the bugs at 6:30 AM but they are not hungry. Swatted one or two bugs on the whole trip. Was a warm night, I was too hot. I have been able to read a lot more on this hike as I am now on page 638. After I finish 50 or so pages I rip them off and burn them to make the pack lighter. I suspect the long nights give me more time to read. Rolled out of the sack at 6:49 AM. At 12:10 PM met a guy and gal in river by the walking bridge near road 65. Talked to them for some time. They had heard the tragic news the night before in town. They had started in Mexico but had decided just then to call it good for the year and to go home to be with family. They apparently hitch hike to get around. We talked some about the PCT in Oregon. They said the north part was especially nice. They highly recommended taking the Eagle Creek trail which is 2 miles west of the PCT on the Columbia River as the trail goes past a lot of very nice water falls and even behind one. The trail joins up with the PCT after about 15 miles. She is from New York and he is from Texas. They left and were going to go back to Texas. I washed up some and washed my T-shirt for the first time. It probably really stunk. Had a lunch roll with cheese, cooled off my feet in the creek. The sun was out and it was good and warm. Hiked 8.5 miles today. They said we were 5 minutes from the road at the edge of Panther Creek Campground.
I decided to hike the road 14.7 miles to the Bridge of the Gods which crosses the Columbia River. The PCT takes 35.5 miles to go to the same place. After hiking 2 miles down the road an old pickup truck stopped and offered a lift. By then I had just about caught up with the couple so I left the tailgate down for them and they also hopped in. They rode across the bridge into Oregon and got out. The two Mexican-looking fellows said they were going to Portland and then Salam and offered to give me a lift so I said Portland would be great. They did not speak perfect English and ended up leaving me off at an interchange on the side of the freeway. I offered them $5 for gas but they would not take the money. Instead he offered me an unopened bottle of a fancy juice drink which I would not take. I was very grateful for the lift! I then jumped over a cement guard at the side of the road and climbed down off the freeway to some railroad tracks then followed them 300 feet to an industrial area. Found a guy washing a pickup truck and asked how to get to the bus or train station. He pointed just where I had come from which has no place for pedestrians. I headed in the opposite direction found a phone booth and called home and left a message that I was in Portland and heading home. Then found a tow truck driver who gave me better directions to the light rail system. So 5 blocks later got on the light rail and for $1.25 got a long lift to the Old Town China Town stop. From there I walked about 5 blocks to the bus station and caught the 4:20 PM bus for Seattle. This bus made 5 or so stops on its way to Seattle. They put a blind business man next to me which was kind of interesting to watch him work. He used his cell phone a lot.
I arrived in Seattle at 9:10 and headed to the bus tunnel which was closed. It may have closed due to the terrorist troubles. So I walked to the ferry terminal. Called Linda and she met me as I got off in Baindbridge at 10:25 PM. Came home and had a leftover roast beef, mashed potato with gravy dinner, took a shower and climbed into the softest bed imaginable.
I was passed by one hiker on the whole trip. My pack weighed 33 pounds after the trip. I hiked a total of 114 miles on this outing. This averages 14 miles a day and does not offset for the half day start or half day finish. Figuring in the half days I averaged 16 miles a day. Felt bad I carried an extra jacket or rain coat. Someday I will really have to trim down. The ultra light hikers do have a method in their madness. A few pound less on a pack does help a lot in making the effort more enjoyable. The best part of this section was Old Snowy Mountain. Of course the weather broke for the better as I reached the top which is a big advantage also. I do enjoy going south and meeting all the through hikers coming north. They seem like a great group of people. The PCT is virtually litter free. It amazes me with so many coming through that they can all be so careful. They seem to look out for one another real well.
I have now walked close to 500 miles of the PCT in Washington starting in 1998 and finishing in 2001. This year, 2001 I hiked 213 miles from Snoqualmie Pass to the Columbia River (246 less the last 33 miles). The hiking really does get in your blood. After a few days you just have the urge to get going down the trail. The body seems to crave hiking. It is also interesting to see what is around the next bend and over the next mountain.
Jim