Linda dropped me off at Stevans Pass after church Sunday August 2, 1998. We found the start of the Crest trail heading south and Linda filled out my trail registration. After saying good-by, I began the hike south at 1:38 PM. Climbed the hill alongside the ski lifts and realized when I got to the top this 60 pound pack might be a little much. Met some nice folks on top who were out for the day and were from Germany. The one older fellow took quite an interest in my pack and plans. Dropped down the other side of the hill, crossed a power line road and began another upward climb with the trail beginning to look more like the crest trail that I remembered.
Rested at lake Susan Jane Lake with my feet already cooling in the water. 4.3 miles in. A father and his 4 kids joined me on the shore. They were on a day hike and all went swimming. I continued on to the pond above Josephine Lake arriving there at 5 PM. This is about 5 miles from Stevans pass. I left the pack and took a side trail down to Josephine for a nice swim and fresh water. (Usually done in the wrong order on this hike.) I do have a water filter now which I used faithfully although I sometimes wonder if the filtering is worth it. We never got sick backpacking that I remember. There was one other couple across the lake also taking a swim and two men passing through on a day hike. Stayed at Josephine until 6:40 PM and headed back up the 0.5 mile or so to set up camp. Nice meadow next to the shallow pond. The water was clear.
Monday morning broke camp at 8 AM and continued "down" the Crest Trail passing Swimming Deer Lake and arriving at a pond further along the trail. Passed about 10 groups on Sunday and today the first group I saw had a nice campsite at this pond. Arrived here at 9:39 AM. Then after taking a break at Mig Lake I arrived at Hope Lake at 10:22 AM. Swam there in the warm lake to clean off and cool down. While there a group of about 15 teenagers with several adults arrived across the small lake. They had hiked the 1.5 miles up trail 1061. A couple also came through at that time. Everyone had lunch. I almost stayed there because my feet were tender but after resting for two hours I hoisted the pack back on and followed the others along the tail. At 3 PM had to stop due to blisters on my tender feet. Found a small creek and a nice meadow so set up camp there about a mile before Trap Lake which is about 12 miles in and 7 miles for the day.
I used a 3 man 6 pound tent but never did have to put up the rain fly. It did provide plenty of room and total protection from the mosquitoes after going through a 3 minute war with them after the first entry into the tent. The bugs were very sparse on the whole trip but on at least 2 occasions I had to use bug repellent.
Tuesday had cereal for breakfast and broke camp at 7:10 AM. Hiked past Trap Lake and over Trap Pass. Then I passed Surprise Lake arriving at 9:30 AM at Glacier Lake. This is 2.6 miles for the day. Quickly got shoes and socks off to soak my tender feet in the lake. Decided the feet were so sore and the lake so beautiful I should just spend the day, which I did! I swam every couple of hours to cool off as the weather has been hot, probably 80 degrees. Spent a lot of time reading Tom Clancys book "Clear and Present Danger". There were two groups that spent the day at the lake with me. One group of two men came up for a day hike. They came up the trail to Surprise Lake then followed the Crest Trail to Glacier Lake. The other group was a father with young daughter who were attempting to fish with bait and bobber. Everyone was also swimming that day. Later in the afternoon two ladies came through camp and headed around the lake to another cove to camp. This is an especially nice lake with rock slide sides, deep blue water and accessible walking around the lake. I will try to keep it in mind to get Linda and / or the boys there for a day hike sometime. Appears to be trail #1060.
An hour before dark Jake came into camp. He is 22 or so and is a baker. He had started in Mexico this summer and when he hit too much snow in the Sierra Mountains he, along with other Crest Trail backpackers, headed to Canada and started hiking south. He had a 34 pound pack without a tent. He was hiking with the cross trainer type tennis shoe with no socks and covering at least 15 miles a day. He did not even tie his shoes tight but made them so they would just slip off. He used thongs around camp as I saw other do also. Used an umbrella instead of rain gear although the umbrella may have been used for sun protection down south. He said he had foot blisters and found by experimentation to poke a hole in the back side to let the fluid drain over night would help. I tried that and it did help. Jake also recommended the Crest Trail hike from Manning Park to Stehekin.
It was here that I realized I had lost my trail guide with maps! Felt like a teenager - no offense. Used people I met on the trail as guides as to what lay ahead. Works fine as everyone likes to talk about where they just came through.
Had a cup of instant beans along with a cup of instant potatoes with dried string beans for dinner. Then for desert had 1/2 a package of instant pudding. Life just can not get better. Also finished off the lunch meat as it was getting old due to the heat.
Wednesday broke camp after a good nights sleep and climbed up a rock slide that had no end until I was way over Glacier Lake at Pieper Pass at 5920 feet. Was at Pieper Pass by 8:41 AM. Was able to see Glacier Peak way in the distance along with Glacier and Surprise Lakes. Another nice day in beautiful country. Walked on tender feet to Deception Lakes where once again my feet hit the water to cool off the stinging pain. There were about 15 boy scouts with leaders that left half an hour after I got there. Also Jake caught up to me there and an old timer arrived. The old timer was excited, he had worked out his shoe - foot problems and was able to hike without blisters. He had cut a 1/2 inch square hole out of his shoe insert just where his blisters always formed. I gave him our home 800 number and so Thursday night he called Linda to tell her where I was and pass along the condition I was in. The three of us ate separate lunches together and all continued the trail at different times, me last.
I continued on, going by Cathedral Rock through Cathedral pass which is 5610 foot elevation. Needed to change film here but was to lazy to search the pack to find another roll. The film was in an outside pocket but I apparently did not have my glasses on. I arrived at Deep Lake at 7 PM totally exhausted with sore feet. The trail takes for ever to drop into the lake from the ridge. I thought for sure I had passed the lake and was heading on down the trail. Finally the outlet side of the lake appeared and a nice campsite with a single guy already settled in. I pitched the tent 75 feet down the meadow from him and prepared a quick meal of potatoes and beans with dried meat and dried vegetables thrown in the potatoes. Hiked 16 miles Wednesday!
Thursday after another good nights sleep I awoke with feet to sore too travel so enjoyed the whole day swimming, sunning and reading. Drained a couple more blisters. I swam before breakfast. Then had 2 pancakes with real maple syrup for breakfast, apple - cinnamon Malt - O - Meal with tang for lunch and a complete macaroni and cheese dinner with dried beef and dried vegetables for dinner. Followed by the other half of the pudding. Washed 6 pairs of socks and all my other clothes which dried easily on a rock during the sunny day. The lake was my own for most of the day but in the evenings and nights there were two other small groups. Again all who arrived swam to clean off the dust and to cool off from the trail. Hiked 0 miles Thursday!!!
At 8 PM a young couple came through and asked to borrow my water filter as theirs broke. While getting their water they said they had 20 pound packs and had hiked in from Stevens Pass hoped to make it to Waptus Lake that night and sleep in space blankets. Then hike to Snoqualmie pass the next day. They carried no cooking or sleeping equipment. No sleeping bag or tent. I had the feeling they might just do it.
Friday I broke camp at Deep Lake at 7 AM and arrived at Waptus Lake at 11 AM. With my continual foot problem and since I was half way to Snoqualmie Pass I decided to hike out and get new boots and lighten the pack for next time. I exited on the Waptus River Trail #1310 which was 9 miles out arriving at the trail head at 5 PM. Surprise of surprises, as I was hoofing about 3/4 of the way out and a lone hiker was coming in and it was my brother Bill! Truly a small world. Hiked another 16 miles Friday. I was given a ride in the back of a pickup to the campground several miles down the road within 30 minutes. Then finally I got a ride out of the campground at 8 PM which got me to Cle Elum and I90 but was unable to hitch a ride west. As it started to turn dark I slipped over the side of the road and into the woods out of site and set up camp for the night. Ate a lot of gorp and dried apricots and stuff for dinner. Since I set up the tent in almost dark my spot was not perfectly level but again I slept reasonably well and woke up refreshed. At 6 AM had cereal for breakfast with dry milk. Broke camp by 6:30 AM as I really did not want to be noticed and again spent 15 minutes too close to a no hitchhiking sign on the freeway entrance trying to hitchhike. Debated if that meant no hitch-hiking all along there or just after the sign. Again felt like a teenager. Hiked 1/2 mile to a motel and a pay phone and found the Greyhound bus serves Cle Elum.
I also called Linda to discuss the situation and proceeded across town with sore feet on pavement probably a mile to the Deli where the bus stopped. Waited 2 hours and caught the 9:35 AM bus which stopped at Snoqualmie Pass where I paid for the $15 ticket. The bus also stopped at North Bend and Issaquah then across the floating bridge where all kinds of people were gathered for the Blue Angles practice and hydroplane qualifications. Arrived downtown Seattle and walked the couple of blocks to the Convention Center underground bus terminal and took a free ride to the Pioneer Square terminal. Then walked the several blocks to the ferry and walked right on. As the ferry left the dock the Blue Angles were doing their thing. Seemed like all the passengers were on top watching the fun. In Winslow I caught the bus to Poulsbo and called Linda for a ride from Dairy Queen. Walked over to the library and checked out some videos until she came.
She, Nate and I then enjoyed an ice cream treat at Dairy Queen and arrived home about 3 PM. The trip was well worth it. Perfect weather although maybe a little warm. The people were interesting. The meadows, lakes and mountains spectacular. Next time I must lighten the pack and get better shoes. I brought our normal hiking pot and pan but forgot we use those for cooking for three. For one I need items a lot smaller. I also packed too much food. Too many spare clothes. Just too much stuff. The last couple of years with the boys I was caring closer to 30 pounds as they were at about 32 pounds. That is much easier. The great news is after being off the concrete floor at work my knee is healed. Of coarse the Crest Trail may be good medicine since it is made for horses and the slope is gentle, comparatively speaking of course. I never saw a horse until the hike out of Waptus lake which was even more gentle. Total mountain miles at least 47 miles.
I hear there is a sale at REI Friday - see ya there.
Part 2 -
Well I did get to REI and bought new hiking boots. Real nice ones. The weatherman predicted a nice sunny streak so on Sep 20, 1998 JJ dropped me off at the Salmon la Sac trailhead at 7:30 PM. With new shoes and a ready spirit I began the return trek to the Crest Trail. It turned dark by 8 PM and I hiked by small flashlight (2 AA batteries) until 10. It was so dark I actually missed some campsites. Shined the flashlight on one tent by mistake. They had apparently already hit the sack. There was no moon so it was real dark. I finally found a in a nice location next to the trail and river.
My pack was lighter this time at 48 pounds including a winter jacket, camera and full water bottle. Packed a 7 pound tent which was slightly lighter and much older than last time. Left the tent steaks at home forgetting this one needs 4 of them. Substituted rocks which worked fine since there was not much wind. Also left the bigger pot and frypan at home and carried only a 3 cup saucepan. Need to buy a lighter sleeping bag sometime. Maybe request one for Christmas.
Spent part of that first night hearing chipmunks run up and over the tent apparently after the gorp I had in the tent. One eventually ate a small hole in the tent and then woke me up by scrambling all over the inside off the tent. I eventually, after much scrambling of my own nailed him on the head and tossed him into the woods. The others were not quite as aggressive.
Sep 21 - Rose at 7:30 to a cool blue sky morning. Ate cereal. Arrived at Waptus Lake at 9:50 am with the lake as calm as glass. I ate a sour dough roll with meat and a chunk of cheese. Continued on to the 9 miles in point and the Crest Trail. By 12:15 reached Dutch Miller gap trail #1362. Still have not seen a human. Finding these new boots are really nice, although I am developing a small blister on right heel! Climbed the 2200 feet to Escondido Ridge and rested at the first pond I came to. Met 3 college aged guys who had come from Snoqualmie pass two days before. They looked and said they were tired. Also passed a horse camp with two horses and a tent but did not see any people. Using the filter filled up the water bottle and also ate a sour dough roll with meat and a chunk of cheese. It was 4 PM. I then hiked to the end of the ridge where I camped at a large pond. I arrived at 7:35 PM very tired and almost dark. This is about 12 miles down the trail from were I met the Crest Trail. Cooked up 1 cup of quick rice with dried meat and dried vegetables added. Then had half an instant butterscotch pudding for desert.
Sep 22 - After some bad dreams daylight came at about 6:40. After cereal broke camp at 7:20 am. On the way down the 2200 feet to Lemah creek met 2 men who had come from Snoqualmie 2 days earlier. Arrived at the upper Pete Lake trail at 9:40 am. Then crossed Lemah creek and then the lower Pete Lake trail. Passed a couple who had left the Crest trail and looped through Pete Lake and back on to the Crest trail. They thought they had saved 600 feet of climbing.
Found the unimproved (fishermans trail) to Spectical Lake and headed up. This was a no nonsense climb over logs straight up to the lake. Was good to be efficient again and reached the Lake at 12:30 PM. Nice lake, took lots of pictures. Blue sky sunny day. There were two guys leaving so I found how the normal trail left the lake. The normal trail enters the Crest Trail farther up hill so will save some effort. Had the large lake to myself all afternoon, all night and until I left in the morning. The water was too cold to swim but I did get 3/4 wet and was able to wash the sweat off! Suspect the air temperature was 75 degrees or so. Washed my socks, underwear and shirt. Studied the map and read the book Experiencing God. At 4 PM prepared a macaroni dinner in two stages. Prepared dinner next to the lake staying in the sun. Stage one was half the macaroni with dried meat added. Stage two was the other half the macaroni with dried string beans added. My three cup pot would only cook half the macaroni at a time. At 5:30 the sun set and had to add layers of clothes. Set up tent and then had cocoa.
More chipmunks tonight all night! Over the tent they scrambled. I whacked the side of the tent and they went flying only to return a few minutes later. I had my gorp in the tent with the pot over it. They eventually mined under the floor from about a foot from the edge, ate a hole in the tent floor under the gorp and helped themselves for a while. I eventually heard the noise of the rascal scurrying back and forth down the tunnel and when I shined my flashlight, I could see the floor of the tent bulge as the chipmunk moved. With the water bottle I smacked the bulge but since he had a trench he was spared for a while. Things quieted down for half an hour then here comes his brother in the same trench. One got inside the tent and we had a mad scramble till I nailed him also. What a night. Counted 3 dead by morning. Lots of reading and action all night. Also was able to get some of the Seattle and eastern Washington radio stations to entertain me through the evening and night.
Got up at 6:30 and broke camp at 7 AM to get an early start on the rest of the 2200 foot ascent. Reached the top of the ridge overlooking Spectical Lake by 8:30. Was really smoke'n! Another blue sky day. Trudged right past Park Lakes. There was a couple camped at Park Lake and another up the trail 5 minutes in a meadow. I asked them were the next water was an they volunteered to give me some of their treated water since they were going to fill up at Park Lake when they got there. After taking a big drink and filling my bottle I climbed to Chikamin Pass arriving at 9:45. Had great views of Mount Rainier and views of valleys and adjacent mountains. Took lots of pictures. Passed Chikamin Peak, Joe Lake, Edds Lake and Alaska Lake. Arrived at Ridge Lake at 2:30 PM very tired and thirsty. Had only 1/2 inch of water left in water bottle. 11 miles from Spectical Lake. Saved lunch until I reached the lake due to shortage of water. The trail was high, hot and beautiful! While I was resting after lunch clouds covered the sun for a few minutes for the first time on the hike. I moved to remain in the sun as the sun began to set behind the hill.
I enjoy being alone occasionally. It gives you the freedom to set your own pace in eating and in hiking. All choices are self made such as what you go see, what you do, whatever. I think over time it would make one just a little strange but for the short run not too much damage is done. : ) I suspect being alone causes a person to think deeper also. All this after just a couple of days. Another benefit hiking alone is totally refreshing. Such a deal. Makes one enjoy meeting others on the trail and they seem to respond better also.
Had 2 cups of 10 grain pancakes with real syrup for dinner. Cooked them in my 3 cup Teflon pot without a spatula. Was mostly successful. The mix makes a rather tender pancake but still successfully flipped most pancakes. I suppose the pancakes were about 6 inch across. Ate to my fill. Listened to the wind high in the trees most of the night.
After setting up the tent the guy from the neighboring couple was passing by so we talked for 1/2 hour or so. We had been doing the trail at about the same pace since the Pete Lake trail. They skipped Spectical Lake and stayed at Park Lake. They are from Atlanta, Georgia and come west every year to recreate. He has paddled the Colorado River, spent time in the Montana, Idaho and Oregon mountains. He thought the Crest Trail needed some work as the trail was too narrow in spots and too close to the cliffs edge. We had just come through an 4 mile stretch that has a warning "pack trains cannot pass for the next 4 miles". He said he has become afraid of crossing the cliffs. He has hiked some of the Appalatian Trail also and said all you see on that trail is the green tunnel of trees the trail cuts through clear from Florida to Maine. No magnificent vistas we get on the Crest Trail. He likes to hike in early fall so the heat of the summer is past. They will drives 48 straight hours to get home.
Sep 24 - A little cloudy today. Up at 6:30 had cereal and took one anti-inflammatory (relafin) pill. Somehow got off my 2 a day schedule. When I thought of the pill I had not eaten so skipped some of the dose. Knees seemed to hold up well so no problem. Broke camp at 7:02 AM and smoked the 7 miles to the Snoqualmie Pass Greyhound Bus station at Trader something store. Met 2 single men hikers and 2 ladies hiking together on the trail out. Only 3 cars at the trailhead. They all had wondered where my car was. Arrived at 10:02 AM and the bus left at 10:15. Cost $9. Again got off the bus two blocks from the Westlake underground bus entrance so got a free ride to Pioneer Square and walked to the ferry terminal and caught the 12:25 ferry. Called Linda from the ferry terminal waiting room. Caught the bus to Poulsbo were Linda met me at CMC. The ferry crossed in some fog and the bus had to use the windshield wipers to clear the mist off the windows.
All in all was great hike in great weather! Part 2 of the hike totaled 49 miles.
Linda picked me up in the van and I got home before 2 PM. At 6:30 we got in the van to go to Nates football game but the 5 year old battery that came with the car was totally dead. Thing died in 4 hours! But that is another story.
JimPS
From Bob and Julie
O D E T O C H I P M U N K S
On Spectacle Lake there was a chipmunk named Slim,
He found a pot of nuts, Hip Hooray!!!
Over joyed with treasure found, he was homeward bound,
Until hiker Jim sent Slim flying through the air!!!
On Spectacle Lake there was a chipmunk named Digger,
A tunnel expert was he, under the protective pot, nuts for free!!!
A family man was he, inviting all the cousins with glee!
Grim Jim awoke with water bottle in hand, WHAM! BAM! WHAM!
At Spectacle Lake the third cousin chewed her way into the nut supply,
Setting Hiker Jim in motion, causing this third commotion!
Alas for the cousins, his aim did not fail.
Three less chipmunks on the trail.
_______________________________________________________
Following is another piece of clever writing from Dan. -Nancy
M E M O
October 19, 1998
Environmental Protection Agency Washington, DC
Dear Sir:
It has recently come to our attention that you participated in some recreational activities in the Cascade Mountain Range.
While we encourage non-intrusive appreciation of "our" natural resources, we understand that this visit, unfortunately, was not in that category.
As we understand it, you were involved in an altercation with three members of the endangered "chipmunkis small-ratus" species. It should be unnecessary to remind you that these rare rodents are considered highly significant by researchers here at the E.P.A. Indeed, with the onset of inclement weather soon approaching, these defenseless mammals were almost certainly more in need of, and in fact, deserving of nourishment than yourself.
Make no mistake that these allegations will be taken very seriously, especially if the victimized members of the squirrel community elect to press charges. An investigator from our Kingston Field Office may soon contact you regarding this matter. Your cooperation will be considered in whether your name, address, telephone number, and financial information will be forwarded to our colleagues at Earth First, the Sierra Club, the World Wildlife Fund and the Green Party.
cc: National Forest Service
National Park Service
Washington State Department of Natural Resources