(Hwy 20 to Hwy 58)
After a 3 day, great family campout at Billy Chinook Lake in Oregon, Betty, Alain, Linda and I (Jim) drove through the back roads to Santiam Pass. We all had lunch at the picnic table at the PCT trailhead. After my pop, yogurt and sandwich, off I headed toward the south, leaving onJuly 26, 2007 (a Thursday)at 12:37 pm.
At 12:50 pm I already met a “through” hiker, hiking from Mexico to Cascade Locks, (Colombia River). He had a 1.5 lb tent compared to my 3.3 lb. At 1:15 pm I passed Swampy who is from Australia. He is planning to hitch a ride to Sisters for a motel. He mentioned Shortcut and Detour are a day and a half down the trail. I passed a small lake on an ATV modified PCT ‘trail‘. Near the Mount Washington Wilderness Boundary I met a dad with a teenage son and a slightly preteen daughter out for a day hike. At 3:00 pm had my first break for water and took my boots off. All is going great. While resting by the side of the trail Anne Bear came through and shared she is coming from Crater Lake and heading to Cascade Locks.
At 4:30 pm I passed a spring (maybe the Coldwater Springs) but the water did not look good. I am running low on water as I continue down the trail so I decided to look for George Lake which is ¾ of a mile cross country, south and a little east of Mount Washington. Mount Washington is easily recognized. Unfortunately the forest in this area of the PCT is all badly burned. After wandering the burned hill side all evening, looking for the lake, I finally set up a dry camp in the burn along a ridge. I am really tired and have only 2 cups of water left! I ate 2 large bites of lunch meat and 2 bites of a muffin but skipped dinner to save water and since the day was already running out of light just went to bed which felt real good. I was not very hungry. (13 miles today first camp.)
July 27 Friday. I broke camp by 6 am with still 10 oz of water. I headed back toward the PCT in a clockwise loop starting southwest. I reached almost the bottom of the valley. The PCT should have crossed on the side of the hill before reaching the valley. Then suspecting I had missed the trail I circled and headed back up the hill. I suspect I stepped across the trail twice as the trail gets rather thin in this blackened burnt ‘forest‘. There are only dead trees remaining and no underbrush. After climbing the hillside I finally did summit the ridge and saw George Lake 1000 feet below. I took another drink of water and several pictures of Mount Washington and George Lake then headed down the ridge and then down to the lake arriving at 8:00 am. I purified a liter of water using my new UV purifier and drank the whole liter. Then by 9:00 I drank another liter.
I washed 2 pair of socks, my shorts and myself in the lake. Sure felt good. Decided to make this a day off. I found a blister on the right side of my foot above my heel. The day is warm and windy. I enjoyed a lazy day. The lake is real nice. I am alone here and it does not look like many come to this lake. I set up camp at the north end of the lake with Mount Washington to the immediate north. I had a late lunch of ramen noodles along with a baloney sandwich and string cheese. Then for some reason I felt like shredded wheat for dinner so that is what I ate. I enjoyed another liter of crystal light and lots of water throughout the day. I walked to the south end of the small lake in my sandals. I spent most of the day reading my book. (2 miles traveled today camp 2)
July 28 Saturday. At 5:25 it was light enough to get up. I enjoyed good radio reception during the night. At 6:55 I broke camp after 2 servings of Farina Hot Cereal with raisins, milk and brown sugar. (I alternated this with Zoom hot cereal each morning.) I purified 2 liters of water for the trail then hiked south from the lake keeping level and to the right. At 7:36 am I did find the PCT again, (whew). At 9:42 am I took pictures of Little Belknap, Belknap and Mount Washington.
I hiked through more burned forest and then crossed maybe 3 miles of lava which was already a hot trail this early in the morning. The lava was hard on the feet even with my heavier boots. I stepped lightly and did not power walk through the lava in an effort to save my tender feet. I reached McKenzie Pass at 11:05 am and took a rest and lunch break with my shoes off at the trail head. For lunches I always had a plain bread roll and string cheese. The McKenzie road is paved and in good shape with little traffic. I am unsure if it goes through on both sides. I read some more of my book Babylon Rising by Tim Lahaye. There were 3 cars at the trailhead and I noticed a couple started a day hike north in sandals.
I crossed the road and continued down a lava trail that seemed to parallel the road for 1 mile to the Lava Camp trailhead. Earlier I heard there was a Trail Angle ¼ mile away with water and pop and even rides to town for those in need. I met 10 or so people day hiking near this campground. I had water so I continued to South Mattheiu Lake arriving at 3:04 pm. South Mattheiu Lake is rather small but very welcome after all the very dry hiking I have just completed. There was a group of 3 older women sunning them selves not to far off and across the lake another gal by herself enjoying the sun at the lake’s edge. There were a couple guys at a campsite and then later 2 gals on horses came through and let their horses drink out of the lake. I went for a swim with clothes on, which felt really good to get both my clothes and myself cleaned off and cooled off on this very warm afternoon. My feet seemed to have survived the rough lava remarkably. By 5 pm all sun bathers were gone leaving just one group of an older lady, a young lady and her husband or boyfriend and myself camping at the lake.
I enjoyed a dinner of spaghetti with dried white sauce to which I added dried vegetables dried meat, dried milk and olive oil. I was hungry and really enjoyed the meal. After cooking I leave both the hot dinner or hot breakfast in my covered titanium pot for 25 minutes to cool during which time I break down or set up the tent. The food is still slightly too warm after this cool down. All my clothes were dry before bedtime. Welcoming big winds seem to regularly come up about 5 pm, so I put on long pants and a light jacket later in the evening. The advantage of the wind is no bugs. I slipped into bed early to rest my feet, read and write. I fully enjoyed this day and was surprised how much lava and burned forest I hiked through. (10 miles camp 3)
July 29 Sunday. Up at 5:30 and left camp at 6:40 am. Crossed paths with 2 old men who left I5 near the Oregon southern boarder and were headed to the Colombia River. One of the men had bad shoes which he seemed concerned with. I passed 2 fellows camped at Minnie Scott Springs on the west side of the meadow opposite the PCT. I did not see water so maybe the water was on their side of the meadow. At 8:20 am boots off for first break. I am making good time on the trail. At 9:40 am I am high up in elevation in some beautiful landscape overlooking North Sister, Collier Cone at Opole Pass. I feel like I am alone on top of the world but I do hear and see 2 men climbing the far ridge. Sometimes I can hear voices from very far away. I am thinking as I rest on this beautiful rock that my family is now at church while I am in t-shirt and shorts in the morning’s warm sun, with blue sky, seeing massive views of central Oregon. What a perfect spot!
Further along I met a group of maybe 15 older people who only have daypacks. They are from Bend but I forgot to ask if they had hiked in that morning or maybe they were with the group of 9 or so Lama’s I saw earlier staked in a meadow. Had a nice short visit. Further along the trail there were 2 horses and riders heading north. Then I came across a guy and gal with the forest service both with badges using a double ended crosscut saw to cut a 4 foot diameter tree out of the trail. This tree crossed the trail at a height of 5 feet at its bottom edge. They were working the cut keeping the saw from pinching. Quite a job. They said each cut was taking longer than ½ hour as the log was very punky in the middle and also hard to reach.
I reached Glacier Way Trail where I saw 2 guys and a gal along with two over friendly dogs which greeted me with enthusiasm. I broke for lunch in the hot sun, by choice, where my shoes came off and 2 old men passed me day hiking south. After lunch I passed them taking a break. We had an especially cordial visit. They had asked me what mountain that was in the west. I did not know but looked it up and later when we met let them know it was ‘The Husband’ mountain. They were also from Bend.
At 5:45 pm I came across a shallow clean lakelet and made camp in the woods which was 300 feet across the meadow from the lake. Several small boys and a man were camped on the rocks across the small lake. Several more guys came and camped near them later that night. I found a light trail out the back of my little used campsite and after a 5 minute stroll it led to a nice flowing creek. The sides were rather steep so I did not go down the 20 feet to the creek edge in my sandals but I suspect the water would have been cold and nice. The creek I think just peters out 400 feet further down as it enters the pumice and meadow.
I purified water and then washed my legs and socks in lake. A guy from the other group took a swim in the lake. This ‘lake’ was shortly north of Separation Creek. Had a dinner of potato buds, dried vegetables, dried meat, dried egg, dried milk and olive oil. Followed by hot chocolate. I enjoyed the meal a bunch. I see some clouds arriving but it is still plenty warm. (12 miles camp 4)
July 30 Monday.Got up 6:10 am after a good nights sleep. A little cool this morning. The clouds are gone and it is another blue sky day. My new UV light, Steripen’s batteries failed. Unfortunately I thought it only used one battery but it uses 2 so I don’t have a new set, just one battery! I broke camp at 7:15 am. In the meadows that followed I saw 5 deer and one elk within 15 minutes. I am probably first over the trail so they are in their morning feed. At 8:34 am I reached the Linton Meadows trailhead. I had lunch at Sisters Mirror Lake. I saw a couple women across the lake and a young couple just down the shore who I spoke with briefly. A little further down the shore were 2 forest service guys with a crosscut saw and a pick axe with a 3 inch blade at one end. They looked like summer workers and may have taken a little more than an hour lunch. We had a nice visit when I reached them down the trail and at that point they were also gathering their gear preparing to leave. They are cleaning up the trails. Even the PCT has lots of logs laying across the trail. Seems it would be so easy to saw this stuff out of the way.
I saw several other groups but did not get close enough for a visit. My book is about finished, which makes me a little sad, however the book is a little dismal when you are hiking alone. I realize now I brought too much food again! It is a shame to carry all the extra weight. This has been a big hiking day and I took lots of good pictures of the Sisters. Stopped at 5:30 pm at a cold creek north of trail 3517. I spread out at a nice level little used campsite next to the creek. I broke out the mosquito lotion for the first time tonight. My feet are the thing that causes me to stop hiking still but I really like these new Danner boots! Especially if I use their fast drying Danner socks. I have several other kind of sock but am using the Danner socks almost exclusively. Wish I had more than one pair.
Water is always a concern and I carry 2 liters normally in this dry area of the PCT. It is a cool 60 degrees tonight at 8:15 pm as I just crawled into the tent to lay down and get relief from the mosquitoes. For dinner I had ½ package of Macaroni and Cheese with vegetables and egg. (No meat) I found and popped another blister, this one on the outside of my left heel. It was not hurting. The mosquito’s are not too bad but I do feel like I am torturing them as I am sweaty and they are stuck outside the tent unable to get at me. (14 miles camp 5)
July 31 Tuesday. Slept good and the radio worked but was boring. It is 49 degrees at 5:50 am. Put on long pants and jacket. As I started to open the tent I came face to face with a little frog inside the tent! He must have entered through the maybe 1 inch slit at the zipper opening! I directed him to the newly open door and he happily jumped out and away. I was packed and on the trail by 6:45 am. At 7:08 am I reached the Island Lake trail. At 8:05 am I was at Dumbbell Lake which was very nice. I still have a jacket on and the sun is just starting to hit some of the lake. The poor mosquito’s just want a little blood not even a full drop. If they could only learn to drill without inflicting pain they would get away with the stealing. By the looks of my lower leg maybe some have learned the secret.
At 8:45 am I met Thirsty Boots from Mexico. He has an 11 lb basic pack with 10 lbs of food. He has light shoes and completes 30 miles a day, with 4 months off work to complete the trail. I then passed a through hiker and talked to the second through hiker who’s trail name is Iron Man. His accent says he is from the south. He had walked off the trail onto a spur trail 200 yards which went to a shelter and another lake. At 10:00 I took a break with shoes off at some lake. At 11:50 had lunch at some lake. At 5:00 pm reached Stormy Lake where I set up camp. I swam and rinsed out socks. Another guy arrived and camped at the lake also. He was doing the PCT through Oregon. I found a large mushroom that was golden brown which looked like a toasted marshmallow. I took a picture. At 6:00 pm it is still 60 degrees in the shade and I cooked the 2nd half of my macaroni dinner and also enjoyed a cup of cocoa. At 7:48 I climbed in the tent as the bugs were suddenly hungry. Some bug is whacking the tent as it wants in real bad. Tent is 70 degrees which feels hot.
Found blister on right foot between toes 2 and 3 which I then popped. Tried good purifier battery with other old battery and purified another liter of water. Maybe the hot evening gave more power to the battery? Forgot my little flashlight so back out of the tent, lower the pack from high up on the tree limb and find the flashlight, raise the pack and climb back in. Then kill the 5 mosquitoes that came back in with me. (12 miles camp 6)
August 1 Wednesday.Up at 5:55 am after good sleep. Did have bad dream of the blue car loosing breaks and hitting 4 different parked cars at very low speed. Then dreamt of a lawyer and settling all the claims. (What a waste of emotion!) It is 59 degrees already. Headed down the trail at 7:00 arriving at Irish Lake at 9:11. (This leaves 22 miles to Willamette Pass.) Lots of bugs, so applied lotion for second time today. While resting by lake saw lone hiker amble through. This lake is accessible by car. At 11:12 I met ScatMan who has a journal on http://www.trailjournals.com/. He does 25 miles a day and is getting tiered. After hiking to Canada he will take a few days to bike back to Seattle, his home. He is originally from Boston and his folks update his web site as he hikes along. I also met Back Track and Silver on the trail and had a good chat. Silver used to live in Port Orchard. They now live in North Carolina, I think. I heard about Billy Goat who is 68 years old and is on his 6th PCT hike.
Reached Charlton Lake at 1:00 pm and had lunch with shoes off and sandals on. Greg Howe caught up with me there. He said he had been following me for 100 miles and even saw me once and now finally caught up. He called me big feet as I have big boots on. He is 65 years old. We ended up completing the hike together and swapping stories. His stories mostly of him as a pilot in the Viet Nam war and me of my military stuff. By trails end we covered religion and much more also. He was fun to talk to and kept the end of the trip interesting for sure. At 5:47 pm we met Ultrabrite on the trail. She was young with a great smile and is from Poulsbo! At 7:45 pm we reached Bobby Lake where we camped for the night. By 9:00 I was in the tent with no rain fly up after a large spaghetti dinner. Nice lake. (15.6 miles camp 7)
August 2 Thursday.3:30 am started to rain so jumped out of the tent and put up rain-fly. Of course then the rain stopped for a moment then sprinkled briefly once again. Had poor radio reception but listened a little. Slept well. Up at 5:45 am. Greg attended both Harvard and Yale and graduated from one as a lawyer. We met Yogi on the trail who is rather famous for asking for handouts without really asking. She even has a book out about it. She is also a triple crowner which means she has completed the Appalachian Trail, the Continental Trail along with the PCT. We stopped at one of Rosary Lakes and chatted with another old timer who was camping there. Must have visited for ½ hour. We reached Willamette Pass at 1:09 pm. Greg headed east to catch a plane and I headed west to hitch hike to Eugene to catch a Greyhound home. (9 miles)
After about 15 minutes a lady stopped. She talked the whole way and after 5 minutes of her driving I ended up driving. Then she asked if I would go clear to Portland as she wanted the company for the long drive. She was in a $500 car which was doing quite well other than the power steering fluid needed to be added regularly and the steering became hard at times. We stopped south of Portland somewhere and I bought myself a large sports drink along with a donut and 2 bananas at a Safeway. We then headed through Portland in rush-hour. She seemed thrilled to see all the changes. We drove a mile or so past the bus station to her cousins who then joined us delivering me back to the bus station. She was 50 or so and he looked like about 29. I drove to within walking distance and parked so they would not have to drive in the bad traffic. I gave her $30 for gas which she had not asked for and headed off on foot the eight blocks or so to the bus station.
At the bus station, at about 6 pm, I found all the buses were full for the evening but I could buy a ticket for 8 am in the morning. I headed next door to the train station and found there was a late train from LA that they could get me on at 9:15 pm. I asked about the cost and he asked how much I would like to pay. I replied the cheapest possible. So he said how about $28. I got the ticket and then headed out for some dinner in the Pearl district. Close by there were several blocks of some kind of fair happening with lots of people. I found a little restaurant and order the main hamburger for $8.00 with pop and had a leisurely meal. The train finally got under way about 10:10 pm. There were only 5 of us that got on the train and there was quite a bit of confusion finding a car and a seat. We almost did not see the little stairway at the end of the car to get to the seats above. Found the seats had lots of leg room. We had a dark ride to Seattle arriving at 2:30 am
August 3 Friday.In the middle of the night I walked across Seattle’s downtown seeing only 3 or so sleeping on the street. Then 15 or so at the Public Dock which closes at 10 pm per the sign. The streets were lit well and very few out walking or cars for that matter. I walked the water front a little to see if Ivars or something was open to get clam chowder or anything to eat but found all was closed. Then I headed on the overhead walkway from the ferry to 1st street where I found quite a few people but it was not a comfortable scene to me. I headed back to the ferry terminal and found some snacks in my pack and read a paper until the doors opened at 4:25 am. There were 3 others waiting for the last 50 minutes or so. Then I waited reading more until 5:30 am when I caught the ferry to Bainbridge. Linda picked me up at just after 6 am and we arrived home at 6:40 am. My PCT adventure ends and my life adventure picks up again.
All in all it was a great trip! 8 days. 9.3 pounds of food eaten. 88 miles traveled. (Health is about as good as can be expected; not too good really. Smile)
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