Linda dropped me off at Rainy Pass (4855 feet) off the North Cascade Highway at 1 PM Sunday August 15,1999. Lifting the 50 pound pack, I headed North on the Crest Trail as the rain fell, so instead of removing the jeans like I had planned and exchanging them for lighter pants I continued to wear them and also wore rain pants and a rain jacket. The rain pants came off after about a mile as I was getting too warm and I was sweating so heavily under the rain jacket, I was soaked anyway. The cool weather provided an excellent environment to climb to the ridge. I continued on past Cutthroat Pass, past Granite Pass (6300 feet) to just under Tower Mountain where I found a nice protected camping spot with good water. (8 miles for day one.) Five male professors and one wife were already camping there. They left rainy pass the day before. I arrived at camp at 6 PM. I set up the tent and cooked dried vegetables with powdered gravy and potatoes. After dinner I visited with the professors for an hour while watching the clouds roll in and out and feeling the light rain fall. No sun all afternoon. I had my light portable radio which picked up AM stations OK. I felt good to be in the high country already. Just before jumping into the sack I experienced a real teeth chattering chill as the cool evening with my wet clothes finally reached my bones. As soon as I removed the wet clothes and jumped into the new 3.4 pound sleeping bag I warmed up. What a nice bag.
Monday I awoke at 7 AM had granola with milk made the night before. Excellent and quick way to start the day. Left camp at 8 AM and crossed Methow Pass (6600 feet) at 8:30 AM. Feet and legs still working as designed. Started to wonder if I had left the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) as I was heading down for a long way. Used my GPS to confirm I was still on coarse. At 10:50 reached Willis Camp and Golden Creek. (4570 feet) The bridge across the creek is broken in half and collapsed but was still able to use the bridge to cross and keep dry. Rested on some nice cut timbers at camp there and ate lunch and pumped fresh water through my purifier. Ate one roll some lunch meat and cheese for all lunches. The professors caught up with me there so we visited again and I followed them for 1/2 an hour until they stopped for lunch. They seemed like a nice bunch of guys having a good time together. One of the professors is planning to hike some of the PCT solo next year between two years of sabbaticals. He thought it might help him get centered. So I decided I was getting centered. Have not seen a hungry bug yet. Everything is wet and cloudy but no rain. The sun is almost making a showing through the clouds. At 12:45 crossed Brush Creek and observed a new and fancy bridge.
At 2:40 PM I rested 0.2 miles before Glacier Pass at a waterless campsite and ate some chocolate. Two doe and a fawn joined me there for the break. One doe appeared to want some chocolate as she completed a half circle around me at 20 feet. The fawn ran off. Continued on to Glacier Pass (5520 feet) and on to a grassy pass. I saw 7 marmots at one time on the grassy slope. Also saw another deer. Reached a grassy pass at 5 PM and was exhausted. Continued on 1 mile to campsite, just prior to Tatie Peak with needed water. Reached camp tired at 5:50 PM. There was a large snow field, a cool creek and 3 deer in camp. Cooked and ate a dried vegetable, dried meat and macaroni dish. Had moments of sun throughout the day. At supper-time 50% blue sky. Have mosquitoes for first time but they are not aggressive. Hiked 12 miles today. Noticed during the night the stars were out.
Tuesday morning got up at 7:15 AM. Left camp on a blue sky morning at 8:30. Took two Daypro anti-inflammatory tablets to keep my knees from stiffening up. So far no problem. Passed through a windy view-full pass on the south west shoulder of Tatie Peak (6900 feet). At 1 PM passed under Hearts Pass lookout. The ranger station I passed earlier was closed. Entered the Pasayten Wilderness and found a beautiful camp but after resting a while the bugs were too hungry! Moved on over to Windy Pass and into the next valley and set up a nice camp there. Hiked 12 miles today. Washed my socks and let them dry overnight. Had a friendly deer join me for half the evening. She stayed about 30 feet away but did charge me once but stopped at 20 feet. I suppose I was just too tired to move. Used lotion to keep bugs off. Camped all alone besides the deer and bugs. The bugs drove me early to the tent and relief at 7 PM. For dinner boiled 2 cups of water with dried vegetables, dried meat. Added macaroni and cooked 9 minutes then added macaroni spice cheese, milk and enough instant rice to make the right consistency. Let stand 10 minutes. Tasted good. Had cocoa latter. Read 100 pages of a readers digest and burned the read pages in morning. Listened to radio some. Reception was decipherable. Got a weather report which indicated possible thunder showers on Thursday. Lost mini flashlight batteries and replaced in morning. Slept well.
Up at 6:30 AM Wednesday to a mostly blue sky day with haze. Had granola to help lighten the pack. Arrived at Holman Pass at 10:15 AM. Am missing my special sock liners that are supposed to wick foot sweat out. Need to try some next year. At 12:15 PM reached Never Failing Springs Camp consisting of a massive meadow which was in bloom with mountain flowers. Blue sky day and real nice. Have blister on right foot. Took one pair of socks off. Took a side trail to upper Goat Lake. Left pack at bottom of last climb. Washed some in the lake as the water was too cold to swim. A snow bank was clinging to 1/3rd of the lake still. Took a short stroll around the lake enjoying the meadow and came back to where my water, camera and shirt were to find a marmot chewing on my shirt. He had also moved the camera 5 feet but did not damaged anything. The rascal left big tooth marks in my water bottle lid. The mosquitoes kept me moving so I headed back to Never Failing Springs Camp and applied mole skin to my blisters and took some more anti - inflammatory pills.
Continued on up the trail and reached Rock Pass at 3:40 PM. Was just able to squeeze past the 4 foot snow cornice at the top where the PCT drops over to the other side. The trail had a six inch ledge to walk on at the top of a very steep and high mountain. Then after 100 feet or so I had to cross a very steep snow-bank 30 foot wide. I carried a large walking stick and used it to help cut foot and hand holds into the snow. The stick broke twice because the snow was so icy. I totally exhausted myself getting across this patch of snow. On the next patch I climbed up and around the snow on loose shale. Again it was difficult to stay attached to the bank and again I got tired. The last snow bank I went down and around. I wish the snow had been softer. Could not get a good foothold by stomping my foot into the snow. Sure was nice to get on open trail again. Camped in a nice hollow under Powder Mountain arriving at 5:45 PM. Had a snow-field and water close. Set up the tent on a nice meadow that would not puddle if it rained. Cooked Pasta Roma for dinner.
The first thunder rolled at 8:10 PM. Was sunny all day but now could see very dark clouds coming in from the south and heading this way. Headed to bed at 8:50 PM just as the sprinkling began. The rain was noisy on the tent but I kept dry. I noticed in the middle of the night the stars were out and twinkling but lightening flashes were still happening in the south.
Thursday - I got up late due to sore feet and poor weather. Fixed malt-o-meal for breakfast and also had soup. Left camp at 10 AM and by noon was on Lakeview Ridge looking at Three Fools Peak. Observed Hopkins Lake 1000 feet below the ridge. Reached Castel Pass and saw a trail to Ross Lake. At 4 PM I reached the border monument #78. Saw the swath cut through the forest at the border. A sign indicated it was 33 miles back to Hearts Pass and 8 miles to Manning Provincial Park. The sign said the PCT was 2627 miles long from Canada to Mexico. Elevation is 4240 feet. Was getting tired but continued on and finally at 6 PM found a nice camp with a small trickle of water. Fixed the dried vegetable, dried meat, gravy and instant potato mix. Hiked about 14 miles today. Have a blister on each foot near the toes. Now have another blister on the heel of my right foot. Had a sunny afternoon. Saw lots of country today. The PCT was rather poor in places, rather narrow on steep slopes. Glad the trail was dry. The snow patches were not steep and were easy to cross. My flashlight bulb burned out but did not need to replace it until morning.
Friday 6 AM got up and moving at first light in an effort to catch today's bus at Manning. Applied moleskin to another blister had cereal and headed down the trail by 7 AM. Got a little misguided and took a horse trail at one point and got twisted and turned the wrong way when I reached the road. Waived for about six cars to stop as I wanted to ask them which way the Lodge was but only the oldest last car helped. Made it to the Manning Lodge and found the bus stop. Called greyhound with their 800 number and also the train to get price and schedule information. Ended up catching the 11:10 AM Canadian Greyhound from Manning to Hope, where I bought the ticket and on through to Vancouver. I enjoyed a McDonald's meal at the Vancouver bus station. Changed buses and arrived in downtown Seattle at 8:05 PM. For $1 took a bus through the bus tunnel to Pioneer Square and walked to the ferry. Called Linda who met me at Winslow at 9:30 PM. Feels good to be home.
Used the GPS several times and it was helpful since I had longitude and latitude information on points of the trip figured out ahead of time. The radio did not work all the time but is nice when you are by yourself and is quite light weight. All in all the trip was good. Seems I push until the blisters keep me from continuing. If I stopped at 10 miles a day I doubt I would have a problem. In all I covered 70 miles in five days. The weather was not perfect but good for hiking. Still had 10 pounds of food on my return. If it had not been raining when I started the hike I could have left a 2 pound pair of jeans and 2.5 pounds of raincoat and pants at the car. Now this week we get 5 straight 80 degree days for a forecast.
Was a good hike and I am ready for more. I meet about 3 groups a day. Maybe next year I can hike from the North Cascade Highway to Steven's Pass. Anyone want to join me?
Jim
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